Transcription
[Music] [Music]
Hello everyone, here is it would be if from the internet driving school. Welcome to our YouTube channel! I am very pleased that we continue with it since today for the second part of our series on the practical driving test.
In this second part, we will talk about the technical questions that the examiner might ask you before your practical exam. It's important to prepare for these questions in advance so you can't fail them. However, not having suitable answers can leave a bad impression and won't make you any safer. If you get two or three questions wrong, the examiner will make a note of it, and you will have the first flaw on the list before the test has even started.
That's something that can definitely be avoided, so we're going to look at it very intensively today. We will approach it from a probability perspective, focusing on the questions that are most likely to come up. Then, we will cover a few exotic questions that are less likely but still possible.
For example, there are questions I might ask only twice a year, so I want you to be aware of them. Of course, there are one or two differences in terms of the vehicle, which you can look up in your manual. Read carefully, and finally, go through everything with a driving instructor before you take the practical test.
Now, let's look in detail at what the examiner could really ask you and what answers he will ultimately expect. One of the examiner's favorite questions is about the tire. I could philosophize about tires for two hours; there are so many important things to say. But three points are actually enough for the examiner.
If he wants to know more, it is not a disadvantage to look it up in a textbook. But as I said, these three things are important and are usually asked. First of all, the tread depth must be at least 1.6 millimeters, as prescribed by the legislator. You have already learned that in theory.
His next question would be, of course, how can you measure that? You could use a depth gauge in the profile if you have one handy. You can put it in the profile grooves, which should be checked over the whole tire width. If you don't have that, you can use the so-called TWI, which stands for Tread Wear Indicator.
This is a rubber elevation in the profile, and it is exactly 1.6 mm high. If your tire is flat to the same height as this rubber rose, then you have reached the minimum tread depth, and the tire really needs to go in the trash.
You can find the TWI by looking at the outside of the flank; you will see either a triangle or the lettering "TWI." This goes over the whole width of the tire, and I think it appears six or seven times, so it comes in several places.
If we now look at the tire tread, you can see the rubber elevation. Do you see that? Yes, it is exactly 1.6 millimeters high. If the tire had the same height, then it really needs to be changed. We can see it is not quite full here; I think it is about three and a half to three millimeters. So, you should start thinking about changing the tires.
The next option to check in the tire would be for optical defects or damage. You can check the tread for any objects stuck in it, like nails or screws. The sidewall of the tire is where it is thinnest and most vulnerable to curbs, so please check there for any cracks or dents. If you find any, that is also a reason to change the tires.
The third thing would be the air pressure. You can look in your manual for the exact values for the air pressure. You will usually find a sticker somewhere in the car, either in the tank cap or on the door. It will indicate the front axle and rear axle pressures for loaded or unloaded conditions.
We can take a look at that right away. If you go around the car and open the tank cap, you can see the information for the front axle and rear axle. Normally, you are sitting in the car, and from your position in the driver's seat, you can explain that without getting out.
This is rather rare, but it can happen, for example, if you have to change the test subjects and the examiner happens to be outside. Then it could also be that he goes outside with you to check a tire, and you can explain it to him.
Now, regarding the topic of lighting, there are several things that you could be asked about. I think there is a need to be fit. Have you all done your night driving? Have you also spoken about the lighting and used it accordingly while driving?
Often, examiners are satisfied with simply asking for the inspection of the high beam and the rear fog light. So far, I think many are satisfied with that. Some may also want you to demonstrate the switching, which we will do now.
I can only speak for the Golf 7; the light switch will look a little different on your vehicles, but you have your manual for that, and you should figure it out quickly. If I go to the first position to the right on automatic, it could well be that the vehicle now has the low beam turned on.
This is always a bit dependent on the weather and the time of day, depending on how bright it is outside. The vehicle measures the light and switches on the dipped beam at a certain programmed value. If you take the test in the morning or during the day when it is bright, you might have the switch on automatic, but the light is not on.
If you then switch the dipped beam on, it may not work because for this additional lighting, you always need the ignition on, and the dipped beam must be burning. So, it may be necessary to turn it all the way to the right to have the dipped beam manually and permanently switched on in this position.
The intermediate position is for the side light, which could also be important. He might ask about it. To switch on the high beam, we have to turn the indicator stalk. If we push it forward towards the speedometer, we will see the blue indicator light.
I have to turn it off again, and it tells you that it is completely switched on. If we pull it out once towards the steering wheel, this is now the headlight flasher. For the rear fog light, we have to go back to the rotary switch.
If I pull it out to the first position, you can see a green control lamp turned on; these are the fog lights for the front. In the second position, I have the rear fog light on. We can check that now.
There is a control to see if I turn it off again, and we can see that the red lamp at the back lights up. This is a relatively bright light and should only be switched on if visibility is reduced to under 50 meters due to fog.
The control has been here in front in yellow or orange, however you like to mention it. We have one more thing regarding lighting: the hazard warning light. This is usually located in different places in your vehicles, but it is always somewhere with a red signal color that is quite noticeable.
Now, it is very small that the examiner might let you get out and check the lighting outside again. He may also ask you to name where, for example, the rear fog light is located or where the reversing light is.
In this unlikely case, we will go outside and see what it looks like from that position. As I said, it is rather unlikely; I haven't had that for a long time, but it is always possible.
You could check the headlight glass to ensure it is not cracked and that no water can get into the headlights. You might have a stone chip or something similar, and they should also be clean. If they are completely dirty, it is clear that you won't throw the appropriate light.
You could also check that all the lights work. Here we can see the low beam is on, the high beam is also on, and the indicator works. If we look down here, we also have the fog light working.
With modern cars, you will receive a message about a control lamp if something has failed. Now, let's look back again. If we look behind you, you can see the tail lights are on. There is no gradation as to whether I have the dipped beam or the side light on the right-hand side.
The brake light, of course, cannot be checked unless you have someone who can sit in the car and step on the brakes. The two white lights here, if you look, are for the rear thrower. Some cars only have one.
The same goes for the rear fog light; we have a bright light at the front, and there is only one on this vehicle. There are also vehicles that have both a right and left rear fog light. It varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.
We can also see the left one works. You could also check the license plate lights to ensure they light up. The reflectors we have here on the left and right should also be checked, and if you look there, you will see that the indicator is working.
That would be a very intensive control of the lighting from the outside. The handbrake would also be a possibility for the examiner to ask you questions. If it is pulled up, I can see it here.
If I swing over here, I can see it on a control lamp. I no longer have the long bracket you may remember; I simply have this little hook that tells me when I stand with the vehicle on a level surface.
This indicates that the handbrake actually works. To check it, you need to start the vehicle, put it in first gear, and let the clutch come to the grinding point.
I am now taking the camera to the front. You can see that the bonnet is coming up a little bit, and now you notice that the vehicle is not moving. The handbrake is working and preventing the vehicle from moving.
So, you know that the handbrake is functioning, not just the control lamps. Another popular question from the examiner is about the control lamps. In the past, there were about 23 control lamps on cars. Nowadays, it looks completely different.
When you turn the ignition on, it is like a Christmas tree, and LEDs in different colors start to light up. This is essentially a check-up, and you should check whether they all work.
You need to get the appropriate information when something is not working properly while driving so that you can react accordingly. It is important to have some knowledge about your control lamps because if you ignore them, you might not even notice and could cause real consequential damage to the engine or transmission.
So, it is important to know what kind of control lights you have. There are differences between vehicles. I will turn it on again, and you will see quite a few lamps come on. Most of them will go off again.
If you look closely, you can see that the lamp stays on for the handbrake. Below this "P," we have a little man, which means that the driver's seat is occupied. It has recognized that, but I am not buckled in.
Up there, we have another important lamp, which is present in almost all cars. It is called engine electronics or engine control. If I start the car, these control lamps must logically all go out.
The one for the handbrake stays on, of course, and for the short circuit, it also stays on. If any of these lamps light up while driving or stay on after starting the engine, then you have a problem.
You should be able to explain all the lamps that remain on after switching on the ignition. In this car, it is actually only the engine electronics, which means there could be something wrong with the exhaust system, ignition system, or injection system.
That would be something for the workshop. With many vehicles, the battery control light is also on, but that is not the case with this car. Look at this picture so you know exactly which lamp I mean.
This would mean that the battery is not being charged. You can switch on consumers, turn on the radio, and turn on the light, but if you do that for too long, you may not be able to start the car.
If it starts while driving, it simply means that the battery is not being charged. In theory, this could be the battery, but it is usually not. Most of the time, it is the V-belt that has broken.
That is the connection from the engine to the alternator, which ensures that the battery is charged while driving. I have a few more things here.
We have the horn, which could be asked about. There are different positions in vehicles. I had that recently for the first time after a long time; the examiner asked about the rear window heating.
It does not work in this car when the ignition is on. I actually have to start the engine. Here we have this little button for it, and when I press it, you can see the control lamp lights up.
Now it works. That is also very important to know because it is mandatory for every vehicle to clear your rear window quickly if it fogs up.
A first aid kit and warning triangle would also be options. I have one in the back of the trunk. We also have the windscreen wiper, which I hope you all have practiced during driving lessons in the rain.
If we do this here and I press it down once, I have the first level. If that is the case, you can measure values often. Then you have to go up a level, which would be the interval.
Then it goes on every few seconds. I can fine-tune it again and go one level further for a permanent setting. If it rains heavily, you will need the fast level.
If you want to have a hectic one, you have to press the lever arm forward towards the speedometer. At the back, there is only the interval. If you press a little further, you have your car wash on.
For the front washer system, you would have to pull the lever towards the steering wheel to activate the washer fluid.
Now, there is a possibility that the examiner will open the bonnet. I have observed this with driving students who are going to take a test. When we wait, they desperately try to open the bonnet, which is a sign that they have not prepared sufficiently.
Normally, you open the bonnet by pulling a handle at the bottom left near the driver's door. There is always a handle that you can reach well. In exceptional cases, it can also be on the steering column, but you will usually find this handle down here.
It is additionally secured in this car, so I can't pull it back now. It only works when I have opened my door, and then I can hold the handle back.
When it cracks clearly, you know that you have opened the bonnet, which is secured at the front by a latch. Now, if you want to open the bonnet, it is additionally secured by the latch.
Grab it in the middle underneath. Some cars have it on the right or left; it varies. If you feel around a bit, you will quickly notice that there is still a hook.
Push it upwards, and look, the hood is open. Now, please don't be frightened; you don't have to do any technical analysis here. You should just be able to check the filling levels.
Let's start with the engine oil. The oil dipstick is usually noticeable because it is orange or yellow. You pull it out, and it will be splashed with oil from driving.
You have to wipe it off once, put it in again, and then pull it out again to get a corresponding result. There are two markings: minimum and maximum.
Somewhere in between should logically be the oil level. If you need to refill oil, look for the oil can symbol. You can also find a piece of paper in the engine compartment that tells you which oil is needed.
You should read the manual for the exact oil specifications. When checking the oil level, park the car on a level surface and wait a moment for the oil to flow back.
For the cooling water, the cooler is still in front of the airstream, but nowadays, it is not installed to screw it on the cooler itself. Instead, you have expansion tanks installed on the left or right side.
In this case, it is on the left side. If you look, you will see minimum and maximum levels. You can see that it is a pink liquid, which is antifreeze.
Winter operation is also very important, so check not only the fill level but also that it has sufficient antifreeze. You can do that at a petrol station; they usually do it for free.
They can tell you immediately how many degrees the coolant antifreeze is protected. Then you are always on the safe side.
We have another container in front for the windscreen washer system, which is also very important. In winter, you will use the windscreen wipers more often than in summer due to bad weather, snow, slush, and road salt on the windshield.
If you don't have any washer fluid in it, you will just smear the windshield and won't be able to see. Open the lid and refill the water accordingly.
Please also pay attention to having antifreeze in it for winter. Otherwise, just using water can make it difficult to get the window clean.
We have a small container at the back. Look at it; it is a circle, not like two jaws pressing on it. That is the container for the brake fluid.
You shouldn't unscrew it; that is something for the workshop. You can check the fill level, minimum and maximum. If you see that there is too little in it, there are two possibilities.
Either your brakes are worn out, and you need to go to the workshop to have the brake pads replaced, or there is a leak, and it is dripping out somewhere.
If you write it down and tilt it down diligently, you might have a problem where you step on the brake, and nothing works anymore.
A tip for when you buy a car from a dealer: they will check the brake fluid. If you buy from a private person, be careful. The brake fluid attracts water, and over time, the water content increases.
This means the boiling point falls, which is around 260 degrees when it is new. The higher the water content, the lower the boiling point falls.
At some point, when the brake is extremely stressed, air bubbles can form in your line, and with air, you cannot really brake. In the worst case, you could have a total brake failure.
So, please always ensure that when buying used cars, you have your brake fluid checked. This is done in the workshop; they take a small sample and can tell you the boiling point of your brake fluid.
The last thing you could check would be the battery. Although there is not much you can do about it these days, the batteries are maintenance-free. You can't unscrew anything anymore.
You could just check that it is sitting firmly and that the connections are correct on the poles. That is about it.
Now, close the lid again. Do it like this: it goes up to 20 cm, and then just let go of the lid. The bonnet will fall and snap into place.
If it is not completely closed, be careful when you put your hand on it or if you have a bunch of keys in your hand. It can happen quickly that you scratch the hood.
So, maybe tighten the hook again and open it again. If that didn't work, just press it again, but with nothing in your hand.
I have one more thing: the steering play. This is also a question that rarely comes up, maybe once or twice a year.
It is often the case that examiners ask about it in the car. You can explain it to someone from another culture, but it is also important.
The steering play should look like this: when I turn the steering wheel, my wheel does not move immediately. There is a little play, which is important so that the steering cannot break.
If I can turn the steering wheel a lot and my wheel does not move, then I have a problem. The steering play must be a maximum of two to three centimeters, nothing more.
To check it, start the engine because you need the pressure for the power steering. You have to get out now, so it is very important that you do not forget to take your foot off the clutch when you are in neutral.
Set the car forward, then pull the handbrake so that the car does not roll when you are outside. Make the window on your side go down, and then start to turn the steering wheel outside.
Observe the wheel outside. You will notice a relatively large amount of turning, and then it becomes less and less. If you turn a lot, you can quickly check that it starts to crack in the steering.
If a steering rod is not right, that is a matter for the workshop. Now, I am going outside to check the steering.
It is wonderful to observe what advice is being given outside. I am making bigger movements, and nothing is cracking. Now I am getting smaller and smaller, and I notice the wheel is still moving.
Now it has to move, and I am in agreement here that no measurable steering play is present. This means we are absolutely on the safe side; traffic and operational safety are absolutely given here.
What the examiner could ask about is the service brake. When you step on the brake pedal, it may only travel a maximum of one-third of the way.
I have to set up the stand again because you will have to start the engine. I have a hydraulically operated disc brake, and only when the engine is running does the hydraulic force build up, which I need for the brake.
If I now press the brake pedal, I notice that pressure builds up. Everything is okay. The control for the service brake would be rare, but it could happen.
So, those are my tips for you on the subject of technical queries for your practical driving test. I think you noticed throughout the video that there are even the smallest differences from vehicle to vehicle.
Take the manual of your driving school car. You might want to take a day or two before the test to look in the technology chapter of your textbook.
There are many things in it, and you will also do it intensively with your driving instructor. From that point of view, I think someone will be really well prepared and will not have any problems.
There are only very basic questions that relate to traffic and operational safety, which are really important not only for the test but also for later.
For example, the car weighs over 1300 kilos, and you can cause a lot of damage with your vehicle if you take part in public traffic.
It is essential that you can check one or the other thing yourself. If the video was helpful for you, I would be happy if you give a thumbs up and subscribe here on YouTube.
I hope to see you again for the third part when we drive an original test route. I wish you, as always, a lot of fun in your training, good luck in your test, and always a safe journey home!