Transcription
Hi guys, welcome to another Win Electrons repair video. This video is sponsored by ManyWare, who sent me this handheld mini oscilloscope for free. I'm not being paid to make this review video. I will give an honest opinion of this item, what I actually think of it. But before I can do that, I guess we have to open the box and I want to see what's inside it. Yeah, so it's nicely sealed as you can see. Just, uh, get in here. There we go.
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And there we have this DS213 mini oscilloscope manual. Yeah, this sometimes you see them advertised or say they're four-channel oscilloscopes. Has two analog and two digital channels, so really it is a two-channel oscilloscope. 15 megahertz bandwidth, which really should be enough for most sort of repair work unless you're into radio frequency, VHF, and such like repair. So probably be hopefully quite a useful repair tool.
So we have the instruction book. I was just quickly added woo cart. It seems to be, yeah, it's like kind of like that end's back to 300 and it's in Chinese. And then this end, this way is in English. And I'm sure there are other language manuals available. So I won't bother with that just now. Let's actually have a look at this summer scope itself. And there's some more bits in here. Oh, yeah, look at that.
So we have a USB lead, quite possibly for the power, but we can try to attach it to a PC. And we have the oscilloscope. This is that metal aluminum case. So we have the connection for the USB. After I find a power to put into that, unless it has a battery built in. Let's see. Oh, yeah, came ready charged up. I was just working that and the battery is basically charged by the week service. Well, it's simply booted up fast. That's the first thing I'll say. It's also very small. So I will zoom the camera down. We can have a closer look at it.
Okay, so there's the oscilloscope. The screen is quite reflective. I just tilted that away from the actual lights. You can see fairly clearly now. I have overhead lighting on my bench. We have John away channel B inputs and out. This has a built-in signal generator as well. And I've also just noticed as a screen protector. So let's take this off it and now see how the display works. Yeah, a little bit sharp as you would expect without the screen protector on.
Okay, it came with the scope probe kits. These look like pretty much standard, uh, scoop probes. Very well held in there, by the way. Different thing out. I want to manage one times ten times scoop probes. Okay, what they have these funny little connectors on. So they're not like a normal BNC connector that you would expect to find on a scoped. Probably something a little pushing connectors by the loops of them. Okay, with all, uh, called rings. So you can identify probe one and probe two. No doubt. I'm not sure they actually correspond to the color on the screen. The space, they may do to some extents. Oh, yeah, it's got a yellow with a green and a cyan and image enter. I'll just switch that off a moment.
So we have some little, uh, clips. You have a little Allen key for something. Uh, and we have some of these little rings, which I'm sure we can actually attach to our scope probe. Like so, that's what I'm gassy. Nearly kind of like open up. And I'm assuming these are just so that when you're working on something, you can easily identify which probe is which. I'll try and put them on there. Okay, they're on there. Fairly standard thing. Times one, times ten. And we have little, uh, plastic covers we can put over the end as well, just to cover over the ground terminal. Like so. Okay. Yeah, these are also used for, they were useful for probing around. I see. So that you can effectively not slip off the leg of the IC. And that's useful for like three rolls that I buy seas. But surf is about once, probably not a lot. And we have the standard, uh, clip-on type probes as well. Can be useful.
So that's what's in the box. These are the ground terminals. They seem quite usable. Clicks on quite well. That was a good solid attachment. So we have those. Okay, let's have a look at the oscilloscope. I'll just take a quick look at the specifications of this. So 100 Meg samples per second, analog bandwidth of 15 megahertz, input into this one mag. Um, maximum input voltage. This is what I was interested. So plus and minus 40 volts on the one times probable, 400 volts on the 10 times probe. These probes are switchable. So we could use on a high voltage circuit. 100 nanoseconds to put the division to one second per division on the horizontal. And 10 millivolts to 10 volts per division on the vertical.
One thing I know this oscilloscope does not support is X Y mode. So you can't look out. This is just figures and that sort of thing on it. So it does have that missing, which is a bit of a Shameless because that can actually be quite useful in certain cases. But I guess you can't have everything in these things. And I think it's fairly common with digital oscilloscopes that they don't implement the X Y facility properly for some reason. Maybe it's too difficult. I don't know why they don't do that. Um, so we get measurements anyway for frequency, cycle, duty cycle, frequency, cycle, Duty. Okay, I thought duty cycle was one thing. Um, Pulse worth, voltage Peak to Peak or Ms, average, Max, minimum. Inbuilt signal generator, 10 Hertz to 8 megahertz square wave and 10 Hertz to 20 kilohertz sine wave, triangular wave, saw two. So that's what we actually have here.
I've had a little look around at this just to familiarize myself a little bit with it. It's actually really quite simple to use. In fact, I very much like the user interface on this. So first of all, let's just attach a signal. I'm going to connect it to my signal generator, which is set to 10 kilohertz. So we'll just put a signal onto it. Okay. What you basically have here is this little thumb wheel. It's like a rotary encoder. So if you say, as I move it, it goes around the various options on the screen. Okay. So these options set the signal generator. If you want to change the setting, you just move the other one. See, Sawtooth, triangle, yeah, Square. This is your time base. Yeah. Okay. You see this is your trigger mode, single, slow, Auto. And the little thumb arrow goes in both directions. So you can easily move back and forwards. You don't have to go around the whole screen to get back to the next item. Okay. This is your trigger. So you have the various options. So you have a less than, greater than, advising Edge, forward Edge. Yeah, the trigger. Whatever was on the next one.
So here, if you see the little blue dotted line here, I've put it inside the waveform. So at the moment, I'm displaying the blue trace, which is, if you like, channel one. This is channel two. Yeah, or A and B. We can go across. X position moves the display side to side. Then you have your various channels. Now, channel C and D, which are the digital channels, I'll just switch them off for the moment, but I will show you what we can do with them before. So basically, this option allows the playback recordings or to record from the various channels. Okay, dash dash means it's off. Go to this one, the violet one at the bottom, the magenta one. These are some interesting options. So this has options, obviously, that's off. Uh, this will show you the inverse of B. So B is the yellow one, is the cyan one. Inverse of A. So there you feel because the inverse of this waveform. Uh, this is C or D. So this is two logic levels. So when either logic will have on input C and D here are high, it will trigger. Yes, C and D are logical. And A minus B. So this is effectively, you can put two signals, one into A and one to B, and this will display A minus B, the subtraction of the voltage of any given instance. Yeah, A plus B. Channel say and off. So we'll switch it off.
Okay, let's go across to the one which we're using. Let's just order the sensitivity so we actually get a better display. Okay, so 1.1 of a volt. Now, the other one, the yellow one again, we can switch it to DC or AC. We can switch it off. Huh. I'll just put it off for the moment. So we just have the one channel. And again, this is your coupling, AC or DC. Okay, so AC effectively will float to the middle, if you like. In DC, there's a DC offset. I can actually adjust that with my single generator. I'm just launching the TC offset. So that's working now on just the one trace. Okay, here it is showing us it has 480 millivolts. That's the amplitude. Frequency is 10 kilohertz, which is exactly what it's set on my signal generator. Okay, we can then, for example, change the waveform. That is supposedly a square wave. I'm not sure exactly how good my L Cheapo signal generator as I've just show you what I'm using. So that's the actual signal generator there. Okay, triangle wave, sine wave, and square wave. So it says.
Let's try some different frequencies. The display is not working very well on the function generator, by the way. It's an old thing. But we can increase the frequency. And I'm just now increasing the frequency. You can see.
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I'm now on, let's see, can we go up to 100 kilohertz? 100 kilohertz. Yeah. And on the oscilloscope, now I can just change the time base quite easily. So we just come back. Okay. And there we are. In fact, it's now shooting a nice square wave. Let's go to triangle, sine wave. Okay. Now I'll take it up in frequency. So this signal generator will go up to 10 megahertz. Okay, I'm now on 10 megahertz. So let's see. Select the option. And it's showing us here frequency 10 megahertz, voltage picture Peak. Turn it down a little bit. And I've changed the frequency.
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Let's just reduce the amplitude. So we down into a quite a weak signal. Yeah, yeah. If you're 15 millivolts and it's still 30 odd millivolts and it's still triggering on it. So it's triggering quite nicely on a low-level signal. That's the actual maximum on my single generator, about half a volt Peak to Peak. Okay, so we can see it works fine after 10 megahertz.
Now, what I have noticed when I was playing around with this, and I'll just try it again. This button, as I can play and stop. Yeah, so you can, if you actually like, just freeze the waveform there. Okay, this step ping in the waveform may well be in my signal generator because this is what's called a DDS signal generator counter. It's digitally generated, basically. If you press the button to get it, runs your eyes and run mode. Now, what I want to just show you is if I turn the time based down, so I'm nowhere near being able to display it. I guess some other odd wave films with this. Yeah, and there at two milliseconds, it's telling me that the frequency is 244 Hertz. So it's actually giving me a stable sine wave on the display at nothing like the frequency of the signal. And I find that a little bit strange. Let's just go even lower. Yeah, you see, you see what he's doing there is it's actually at these points giving us a stable display. And I find that a bit odd. Yeah. If we go on back to the actual range, as you can see, it's again at 10 megahertz. So as I increase the time base, look, it loses the frequency reading. Yeah. And that could, I suppose, become a bit confusing if you're doing repair work whereby you think you've got a 240 Hertz signal, it's actually 10 megahertz. So I'm not really sure why it does that. But I thought I should mention it. And maybe ManyWare will come along and explain why it does that. It only goes up to 10 megahertz. But I have another one that goes up to 255 megahertz. So we can have a little play soon. And we can actually see how it responds. What happens when we go above 15 megahertz, which is the actual rated bandwidth of the oscilloscope. But for now, I want to show you something else. So I'll put it back down to 10 kilohertz.
What I'm going to do now is put the or the cello on. Okay, so we'll just go across two this channel, channel B. And we also added to DC. Now, I've actually connected a signal to this. So this is connected to the test point on my oscilloscope, which I believe is a one kilohertz square wave. Okay, so we'll just turn the sensitivity of the scope up a little bit. Okay, so that is a single group of my oscilloscope. Now, this analogous oscilloscope is 30 odd years old and it's a little bit iffy, if you ask me. So I'm not sure if that noise is on the signal. It's probably on my oscilloscope actually. And you can see that the frequency is flashing in here. Okay, so what we're going to do is I'm going to trigger on that signal. Okay, now to do that, we go over to trigger. Okay, and we press this one. Is it's changed to yellow? Okay, so I can now trigger on that waveform. I'm just going to alter the time base slightly there. So you can see I've now got both waveforms displaying. Yeah, and I can stop it there. And we can see that the frequency for my signal generator is 10 kilohertz and the frequency from my oscilloscope test point is 900 Hertz. Okay, so that's just demonstrating using the oscilloscope with two signals at once.
I'll just now alter the amplitude of the waveform. Now I'll show you what this actually does here. So if we go back over to channel A, right, we have a smaller waveform. Okay, and now let's go to channel B and we have a smaller waveform. Okay, now what I can do with this is this one YP. This is the Y axis or the vertical position. So I can switch using this between the yellow, which is channel B, channel C, channel D, which is a green channel. Hey, yeah. And then I can actually alter it. So using this, I can actually, you can see I'm moving the trailer way down or I can move it up. Okay, so that's how you actually change the position of the. Now I can press this button again and just change to yellow. And now we can actually alter the position of that one. Okay, so that moves that one down there as well. And we can set the trigger point. So we can actually tell it to trigger at the moment. We tell you to trigger on the yellow one. And you see it's not triggering because the trigger pointers are both the waveform. So let's just go over there. Just that. Okay, put the trigger points inside the waveform. We can just drag it. Okay, so that's the basic use of the oscilloscope. And I must have met once you get used to using these two little encoder wheels, it's actually really quite nice to use this. Yeah, I quite like the pause thing as well. You can actually have a look at things in there, various voltages and such like. So that's the basic use of it.
Now, one of the advantages of having an oscilloscope like this, which is battery powered, is that it's isolated from the main. So I thought I could probably use this effectively on the high voltage circuits, such as power supply, switchable power supplies, because I can connect the ground load of the scope to hot ground. Okay, and it's not going to effectively cause a short to ground. It's not going to boil any fuse or do anything nasty. But when I had a close look at it, I can't actually do that with it. I just want to show you why. So there's my test meter on continuity. I'm just gonna, I'll twist the leads together. We have continuity. So this is attached to one of the oscilloscope probes, the ground clip. So this is what you would clip to your circuit that you're working on. This effect we on a hot ground with with your cat toy B half means voltage or all the mains voltage half the time. Yeah, but you'll see that if we look at the continuity to here, the metal work where the sockets are. Let's continue continuity. Yeah, so the whole case in the favoring on the back of it, the health. There was a scratch on this, which are the reasons I'm not going to scratch it. But you would have continuity to hot ground. So you can't use this as it is safely to monitor waveforms on high voltage circuits. For different reasons that you can't use your bench yourself. Your bench telescope has been grounded. So as soon as you switch on, you're connecting the mains to ground to Earth. You're going to blow the Earth leakage trips and probably some fuses. In this case, it won't do that, but the whole thing becomes live. It's not safe to touch. Yeah, but there is a way around that, which I'll show you shortly, where you could use it safely on high voltage circuits, such as switching power supplies.
But in the meantime, let's have a look how this responds to frequencies above 15 megahertz. I have now attached the oscilloscope to my RF signal generator. So you can see, I think in the window here, that I have it set to 7.2 megahertz. And this is showing me the approximation of a sine wave at 7.2 megahertz. Now, this little clock generator on here, we were discussing on the previous videos, a project. It doesn't always give a perfect sine wave because effectively is using a clock generated make the frequencies. But what we can do, you see I can just increase the frequency on here. And you can see it's increasing. So 7.31, this is really 7.30, 7.32. Now let's go up in frequency. So the next band is 10 megahertz. Okay, so I'll just set the time base. Yeah, the time base is on the minimum. Yeah, 100 nanoseconds. So it's displaying our 10 megahertz. Now let's go up again. So next band is 11.78. That's saying 11.8. Okay, 13.63. And it's still working. That's 14.1 megahertz. And that's 15 megahertz. That's basically the bandwidth of my oscilloscope.
So what happens if we go above 15 megahertz? Because unless you enter v8f radio repairman, so like probably 25 megabits as much as you really need. That allows you to measure clock crystals on things like graphics cards and motherboards. So let's try taking the frequency up and see what happens. So we're now on 17.6. And he's still reading the waveforms a little bit squiggly, but it's good enough to tell you you actually have a clock frequency at that. Yeah, 21525. Again, it's all the way jittery, but it would tell you the clock was running. And for repair work, that's probably all you need. Okay, so we're now up to 27 megahertz, which is above what you need for testing motherboard clocks and such like. Yeah, and it's still actually showing you there's a clock there. 28.4. And it's still showing you there's a clock. Uh, well, there's no one will show you the frequency. And that's about it. Yeah, that's about as far as you can go where this is now 150 megahertz. It's not. I mean, you could say it's showing you there's a clock there, but that's about the best you could say.
So I've put it back down to 7.2 megahertz again. We'll just do that 10. It's reading the frequency. You're having 0.8, 13.6, 14.1, 15. It's reading this. It reached above that. 21 megahertz. It still reads the frequency. And then that cuts out. Well, I'm at 27. Okay, so we can definitely use this for repair work to determine if we have a clock at frequencies higher than the stated bandwidth. Now, I actually think that's very good. I mean, it may not be giving you the charges where you form, but often for repair work, all you want to know is, is the clock running? Yeah, so that I am quite impressed with.
Here we have a switch mode power supply. It's a 12 volt power supply from an old satellite receiver. And it is working. So what I want to demonstrate is how you ward go about viewing the waveform on the Portsmith modulator. That's this chip here, safely. Okay, so first of all, I'll explain to you what the problem actually is and why we need to consider how we would actually do this. This is the data sheet for the controller chip on this power supply. And there's a typical application. So you can see you have the mains voltage coming in through a bridge rectifier, charges a large capacity. And then this is the transformer coil. And this is the MOSFET built inside the chip itself. So basically, the chips which is this MOSFET on and off. And that drives the transformer coil and induces voltage into the secondary. So that's basically how it works. Now, you'll notice that the chip is connected to ground. And also, if I just zoom in a little bit, this capacitor is also connecting to ground. But you'll see that ground is actually one end of the bridge rectifier. And via the diodes, this is connected to the mains. So you cannot connect something connected to safety grounds. This simple a safety ground to here, for example, a bunch of celloscope that's connected to the mains, that's grounded. Because if you do, what happens is via the diode, you connect live and neutral to ground basically. So it will just cause a fuse to blow or most likely just trip out the Earth leakage trip. It might damage the thing you want to test. It might damage your oscilloscope. So to avoid that, you could use an oscilloscope which isn't grounded. The problem there is the oscilloscope itself will float at the voltage. Half of the main cell or the 220 volts maze, 240 volt, your oscilloscope will be sitting at 120 volts basically. So it's not safe to touch it. Now, if you have an oscilloscope meter, something that is all plastic, that's insulated, like a multimeter, that's fine. But this little oscilloscope is not. It has a metal case. And this is why you can't use it safely. But there is a way to do it.
So if you think about it, when you measure the waveform here on this chip, basically what you want to know is, what is the voltage difference between here and ground? Okay, ground is the other end of the circuit. It's here, it's here. So all you really do is looking for the voltage difference between ground and the output. And we can do that using this oscilloscope without connecting to ground. I'll show you how we can do it. So to see the difference in voltage between hot ground and the output of our chip, we can use the math function built into this little oscilloscope. And this is nothing specific to this. You can do this on pretty much any digital oscilloscope, including the bench ones, and even on some analogous obviously if you have this facility. But the ideal thing about doing it with this is you don't have to worry about accidental grounds and such like. All you really need to do is connect your probes. So the first one, this is actually a channel two, the yellow one, although I put the green band on, I pulled him in the wrong way around. It doesn't matter. And this is in fact channel one. Okay. And what we can do is on our oscilloscope, if we go to channel C, okay, we can then go through the various math options. And we want the difference between A and B, which is basically A minus B. There, A minus B. So that's the mode we need. And with that, we can monitor the difference in the two voltages without ever making a connection from the ground of our oscilloscope to hot ground. There is one thing we need to bear in mind. And that's the this oscilloscope can handle up to 40 volts input with a times one probe, but 400 volts on the times 10. And these probes are switchable. So I've actually set the probes two times ten on the switch. And that means that I will not effectively overload the oscilloscope. So we can now try it.
I've now switched the power supply on, so it is running. There's no load on it at the moment. Let's have a look at the waveforms. So first of all, the yellow trace, this is the hot ground. Okay. And if we switch that on, there you can see a 50 Hertz signal. Means frequency. That is hot ground. Okay. Now let's put on the trace one, the cyan one. Okay, that is the output from the chip. So you can see the hot ground is there because the whole circuit, I'm not connecting any ground to it. So we have that. But I'm sure you can see we're all bursts of data. What this is, is the chip sending a pulse, a little pause into the output transformer. Because there's no load, it's going to come back into this post mode. We can put a word in afterwards and we should see it actually run continuously. But if we want to see how just the waveform loops, we need to use the math function. And what we need to do is actually subtract A from B. Okay, so let's go over to the function on the magenta one. Yeah, and let's go to A minus B. So in the middle, now you can see that. Yeah, that's one minus the other. You can see the little burst of data, if you like, rather not dated the pulse coming from the Portsmith modulator. What we can now do is we can actually switch off the other two traces. And all we're left with is the difference between the two, which is exactly what we wanted to see. Okay, now you can see in there, that's the little pulse of the thing. Is triggering. If I pause it, I can probably get it to pause there. So we actually have one of the pulses there. Yeah, it's now triggering on it. So that's how we can actually view the output from the chip without connecting the ground to the actual circuit. Okay, so we can definitely see it there. Yeah, let's switch the mains power off now. So I've switched the mains off now. You can see it's still running, it's still pulsing. Yeah, and gradually the main capacity will discharge and it will stop. Okay, it's quite a large capacity, holds quite a high voltage actually. I can actually take my multimeter on Volts range and we could have a look. I think it's actually stopped now, just about. Let's see how much voltage is in the large capacity. So just from here to here, there's 10 volts in it. Now it's almost discharged. Yeah, so let's connect a load to our transformer and then let's try it again. So the power supply has got an output. And then let's see how it looks. Okay, so I've connected. I can just show you with this camera. Uh, there's a power supply. I have some power resistors here connecting across the output. Okay, so I've put about 15 ohms load on it, which draws a bit less than one amp. So we now have a load on the power supply. So now it should actually run continuously rather than that kind of burst mode. I'll just move over to the time-based setting because I want to change it. Okay, so let's power our power supply up again. And now it's running. You can see it's running. Yeah, so you can actually see the power supply is Ronnie. So that is how you display a waveform from a power supply connected to hot ground without actually connecting to ground and it's safe. Yeah, this is no voltage on this.
Okay, one other thing I've noticed while I've been using this cylinder scope to make this video, as it shuts down after a period of time of inactivity. If there's no signal and you're not doing anything, it just shuts down. If you touch any of the buttons, it drops, comes back on again. So it will, in fact, we save the battery if you forget to switch it off.
So I have to sum this up and I have a number of thoughts about it. So firstly, it has some strange quirks that I've noticed, especially the one where I could put a 10 megahertz signal in, get it to display 10 megahertz, see the sine wave, and then change the time base down and get it to show a nice sine wave again and tell me it was 200 Hertz. Yeah, that to me just doesn't make sense. I don't know whether that's some sort of bug in the firmware. And I'm sure ManyWare will be watching this review. So if you guys would like to get to the comments and explain what is causing that to happen, is it just some sort of bull guy fountain talking about firmware with this device? This is open source. So you can download the schematics, you can download the source code for the microcontroller, for the FPGA chips that you do in the hard work inside here. And if that's your sort of thing, you like programming those sort of devices, you can actually write your own software for this. There are already some third-party implementations available on the internet if you just search DS213 firmware. And you can upload them easily by using the micro USB. Also with the micro USB, you can download data from here onto your PC in various formats. One is a CSV or comma separated values, which you can load into Excel and then plot waveforms and such like with that. If that's the sort of thing you want to play around with. For me, for repair work, it's probably not something I need to do, which is why I didn't investigate that. But it does have the facility.
Price wise, I think it's a little bit expensive. I will. So these are a little bit expensive, but it's extremely well made, extremely well made, I will say that. And it feels like a good quality piece of kit. It would be ideal for working with on site. And we can get those protective covers, which I would recommend if you want to use this on size. So we say effectively drop proof for this, you know, much or less likely to come into any home what's in your tool bag. And I'd be very happy to use this on site without a doubt. The scope probes are included, which is very nice. But bear in mind they have these non-standard fittings. I haven't seen this type before. I've never tried to find any. So how easy it is to get replacement probes, I'm not sure. I'm sure you could go and Google that. But normally scope probes last rather long time to be quite honest. But it's something to bear in mind that you can't just fit a standard BNC scope over there. So there isn't the space basically to do that. You see it has a battery saver on the fact you've just seen it go off on its own. And if I just touch a dial or something, it comes back to the previous settings. So it does have a battery saver. I've used it for quite a while in this video and obviously off camera as well, where I've been trying to work out how to use it a little bit. The battery life seems good. It seems to be several hours between charge. It's certainly plenty enough to be using this on site again or away from a charger. And you can connect it to a standard phone charger. So charging it shouldn't be a problem or running from a power pack if you want to do that if you're using it for very long periods of time.
How this compares to other handheld oscilloscopes, especially cheaper ones, I don't know. I have seen cheaper ones which at least claim to have a wider bandwidth than this one. Whether they really do, I don't know. I'm sure at some point in the near future, I will get around to reviewing some of those devices. But this one definitely worked above its stated bandwidth of 50 megahertz. I'm not saying it displayed a perfect signal, but for repair work, normally if you want to know, for example, on an oscillator 25 megahertz, it is oscillating or not. This always will show you the oscillation. Yeah, usually if an oscillator fails, any electric repair, it fails. It either oscillates or it don't. Yeah, the actual waveform is not totally relevant to repair work. So I'm quite happy with that. I'm quite happy with the way it worked up to around 25 megahertz. It makes it very useful then for working on things like graphics cards and motherboards and similar devices. If you come across frequencies higher than that, obviously you're going to be working like VHF radio, UHF. Sure, this isn't really for you. But for all the sorts of repair work, it fits the bill. Yeah.
So to finally sum up really, it's a really nice little device without a doubt. I have everyone's like it. I do think it's a little bit pricey. But if you're in the market for one, you've got a bit of money to spare, I don't think you'll be disappointed for one minute with this. Okay, but you have to make your own mind up. I can't really recommend you on this one yay or nay. I was very fortunate to be sent one and I will be using this on my repair videos. It's probably easier for me to use than my bench oscilloscope when I'm making videos. And I very much like the way it's isolated from the amazing. I was taking those voltages on the switchman power supplies.
Okay guys, so over to you. I'm sure you'll have lots of things to say about it in the comments below. Yeah, I hope you feel that was a fair review. If not, let me know why. And I will see you all soon on another, well, let's face repair video. Ciao for now guys.