Transcription
Hey, so in the last video I talked about why I finally took the plunge and got a 3D printer, specifically the Bamboo Labs P1S. And if you watched that video, you know I was pretty hyped about it. Well, it's been about 6 months now, and I've been using this thing constantly. And the thing is, I didn't just start printing random stuff. I actually started printing mods for the printer itself almost immediately. Like, I'm talking I had designs bookmarked before I even picked up this thing. Yeah, I know I might have a problem, but honestly, these mods have completely transformed how I use this machine. And today I want to talk you through all of them.
Now I know this is going to look like a lot and I want to be upfront. You absolutely do not need to print all of these right away or ever honestly. But I wanted to share everything I've done so you can pick and choose what makes sense for your setup and your priorities. I've organized this into three sections. Beginner essentials that you should probably print first, intermediate upgrades for when you're getting more comfortable, and then some advanced tweaks for people who really want to dial everything in. So whether you just unboxed your P1S yesterday or you've been running one for months, there's something here for you. With that said, let's get into it.
All right, let's start with the absolute must-haves. If you're brand new to the P1S, these are the mods I tell you to print in your first week. Okay, first up, and this is a non-negotiable in my opinion, the poop shoot. If you only print one mod from this entire video, make it this one. So, here's the deal. When the P1S with the AMS does a filament change or purges, it just dumps the material out the back. And if you don't have something to catch it, it either lands on your desk, falls on the floor, or piles up in weird places you never even knew existed. The poop shoot solves this. Now, there are tons of different designs out there on Maker World. So, just choose whatever suits your setup best. I went with this one because it's a small container bin that hooks onto the back of your printer. Just replace the existing screw with a longer one and it catches all the waste as it comes out. No magnets, no tape, just a simple screw mount. It took me about an hour and a half to print and I cannot overstate how much better this makes the whole experience. No more hunting for stray bits of plastic. No more mess. Just clean, contained waste. Print this first. Seriously.
Okay, so after I'd recorded the video, I had been using the poop shoot for a little while and I got tired of pulling the poop shoot out from the back of the printer and reaching around and trying to unhook it from the screw. So, I decided to print something a little bit more comprehensive. So, I landed on this poop shoot that doesn't need any magnets or anything like that. You essentially just print it out, lift up the back of the printer, and place it underneath and it connects to the the feed in the back of your printer. You can choose different sizes of bins. I printed the medium one for now. I went with the red just to go with the whole Printus Prime theme. For now, I think it's actually a really good fit. I prefer being able to just reach to the side, lift it out. It disconnects very easily, empty it out, and then put it back again. If I decide that there's not enough volume or whatever, there's a large and there's even an extra large size. If you have pets, there's even a cover. Like cats typically want to go in there and mess with the poop. You can put covers on them as well. So that's what I've done with the poop shoot. Now back to the video.
Next up, dust covers for the Z-axis threaded rods. These are super simple, but they make a difference. Basically, you got these exposed threaded rods on the top of the printer, and over time, dust and little bits of filament can get in there. These caps just sit on top and keep everything clean. They print in about 9 and a half minutes. Use like a gram of filament, and you get two of them. It's one of those things where you print it once and forget about it, but you're glad you did.
All right, number three is a cable tidy. So, the back of the P1S can get a little messy. You've got cables, PTFE tubes, and everything just kind of hanging out. This cable tidy system cleans that all up. It doesn't need screws or magnets. It just clips and holds everything in place. The PTFE tube on the right-hand side is free to move back and forth, but it stays in the channel. I did add a little bit of double-sided tape to mine just to keep it extra tidy, but honestly, the cables and tubes keep it in place on their own. It makes the back of your printer look way more professional and it also prevents any accidental snags or damage to the cables. It's a super easy win.
Number four is the perfect filament clip. This one's straightforward. It's just a simple, reliable clip that keeps your filament from unspooling when you're not using it. No tangles, no mess. It's just one of those things that's so simple you almost don't think about it, but once you have it, you use it every single time.
Next up, better PTFE chain clips. So, after a few prints, I started noticing a clicking sound. Turned out my PTFE tube was tapping against the glass and hitting the edge of the frame. These clips solve that problem. They guide the PTFE tube properly so it doesn't bounce around and hit things during the printing. I printed these in PETG for extra durability and I'm only using two of them for now. That's all I needed to stop the clicking. Super quick print and once they're on, problem solved.
Number six, the extruder toolhead PTFE guide. This was actually designed by someone for a friend with a disability. So, it's super easy to install with one hand. You don't even need to remove the tubing or filament. It's got a 45mm bend radius with a natural curve and it finishes below the top of the frame so there's clearance for the glass. It's a quick print, doesn't need support, just a small brim, and it makes a noticeable difference in how smoothly everything moves.
Okay, so this one's chef's kiss. The screen bezel with Allen key holder. So the P1S has this touchscreen on the front, right? And it's fine, but it's also kind of plain. This bezel fits around the screen and gives it a cleaner, more finished look. But the real genius is the Allen key holder built into the side. The Allen key is something you need semi-regularly for adjustments, maintenance, swapping nozzles, whatever. And without this mod, where do you keep it? In your drawer, on your desk, taped to the side of the printer like some kind of animal. Now, it's just always there, right where you need it. Invisible storage. This was one of those prints where I immediately thought, why didn't Bamboo just do this from the factory?
All right, so those are the essentials. Now, let's move on to the intermediate upgrades. These are for people who've been using the printer for a bit and want to start optimizing their workflow.
First up in this section, the version 4.1 Arrows AMS fitting protector. Okay, I'll be honest. I wasn't sure if I really needed this one at first. Seemed like one of those nice-to-have things, but not essential, but after using it for a few months, I'm so glad I printed it early. Basically, it protects the feeder head from wear and tear over time, and it feels way more secure when you're changing filaments in and out of the feeder. After seeing pictures online of worn-out feeder heads, yeah, this is peace of mind. It's one of those mods where you don't necessarily see the benefit right away, but you know it's working in the background, preventing a problem you'd run and not see down the line.
Next is the exhaust chamber silencer. This is a magnetic muffler for the chamber ventilation. Just makes the printer a little quieter when the exhaust is running. You'll need six magnets, 8mm diameter, 2mm height, or you can use double-sided tape if you don't want to deal with the magnets. Super simple install, and it does make a noticeable difference if you're running the printer in a shared space.
And the last one in the intermediate section, the Darkhorse AMS Drybox system. All right, so this one took a while to print. I'm not going to lie, but it was absolutely worth it. This is a desiccant drybox system for the original AMS, though it also works with the AMS Hydroood. Each dry box holds around 100g of silica, and it does a great job of keeping humidity to a minimum inside the AMS. Some versions support a hydrometer, and I'll link the one I use in the description. It's just nice to have that peace of mind, especially if you're printing with materials that are sensitive to moisture. This is definitely a longer print, but if you're serious about keeping your filament in good condition, it's worth the time.
All right, final section. These are the advanced tweaks mods for people who really want to dial everything in and get the most out of their setup.
Okay, so this is the big one. This was the biggest game changer for me. The P1S LED air vent glass riser V2 plus the hex vent covers. Now, you might notice most of my mods are printed in blue with red accents, specifically these hex vent covers. Yeah, I'm going for a kind of Optimus Prime aesthetic here. My printer's actually named Printimus Prime, so I'm committed to the bit. Anyway, here's the problem this solves. When you're printing PLA, you need airflow to prevent heat buildup. The enclosure is great for ABS, but PLA needs ventilation. Now, PETG is interesting. It actually prints better in a fully enclosed stable environment for layer adhesion and to reduce warping, especially on larger prints. But if you're in a warm room or doing really long PETG prints, sometimes you need just a bit of air flow to prevent heat creep issues. Stock, your options are to either open the door, which kills the clean look and destabilizes the temperature, or take the glass panel off entirely, which is annoying and leaves the printer looking unfinished. The glass riser lifts the top panel slightly to let just the right amount of air escape while keeping the printer looking sleek and mostly enclosed. You get airflow control without sacrificing the stable build environment. But the real magic is the LED upgrade. The stock lighting in the P1S is okay. It's functional, but with this mod, you replace it with a much brighter LED strip that actually illuminates the whole print bed properly. Now I can actually see what's happening during the print without opening the door or shining a flashlight in there. And when you're trying to catch issues early or just monitor progress, that visibility makes a huge difference. The Hexfin covers are just the cherry on top. They look great. They provide extra ventilation if needed. And they tie into the whole Printimus Prime theme. This was a longer print, maybe 6 to 8 hours for all the pieces, and the install took a bit of time. But if you use the printer regularly, the improvement in workflow and visibility is absolutely worth it.
Next up, the sidemount spool holder. So, here's the thing. The stock spool holder on the P1S is mounted on the back, which is fine until you realize your printer is up against a wall and you can barely reach it to change filament. The side mount solves that problem, and it gives you way better access, so you can actually see the spool while it's feeding, which makes it easier to catch tangles before they become a problem. Plus, the side placement gives you a better filament angle, which can reduce strain on the tube. But here's where it becomes really useful. If you want to print flexible materials like TPU or you got larger spools that don't fit well into the AMS, you need an external spool holder. Anyway, the side mount makes that setup way more practical than fighting with the rear mount. It's one of those mods where if your printer is against the wall or you're working with materials that the AMS doesn't handle well, it goes from nice to have to why didn't I print this sooner?
And finally, the Toolkit Organizer Rugged Box 2.0. This holds all the tools that come with the P1S. Hex keys, grease, thermal paste, all of it. There are hooks on top for the elastic bands and extra space for anything else you want to store. This is one of those finishing touches that just makes your workspace feel more organized and professional. Everything has a place and you always know where to find it.
All right, so those are all the mods I've printed from my P1S. And again, you don't need to print all of these tomorrow or even this month. But you know what's out there and you know it's actually worth your time and filament. For me, these mods have made using this printer so much better. It feels more dialed in, more reliable, and honestly just more mine, you know. But the thing is, now that I've got this machine set up and printing reliably, I've been printing a ton of stuff that's actually made my gaming setup and daily life way better. In the next video, I'm going to show you my favorite 3D prints for gamers. Headphone holders, custom Switch grips, game organizers, and even some fun Pokémon prints. Things I didn't even know I needed until I printed them. If you've been wondering what to actually do with a 3D printer once you've got it set up, that's the video. I'll see you there.