Transcription
Hello, I hope you are doing well. I am very happy to reconnect with you for a new conversation in French. I am in Marseille and there, I am going to meet a chef who runs a restaurant in Marseille. I am sure it will be a fascinating conversation and I have many questions, we have many questions with Violen to ask her. So there, as usual, it's a totally natural, authentic, and unscripted conversation. So listen, let's go. The appointment is in 5 minutes directly at her restaurant. See you soon. So we're just going in here to this restaurant. Well, Latitia, thank you very much for welcoming us to your restaurant, that's kind. We are in Marseille, we are really in the dining room, it's about 8 AM. The day is about to begin. Is it, so first question, can we say "tu" (you, informal)? Yes, because when I called you to make the appointment, I immediately used "tu". Well, and then I didn't feel guilty, but I told myself that we don't know each other. No, you shouldn't feel guilty, it's very good. OK, perfect. So, so there, when we don't know, let's remind our subscribers that if we have a doubt, we can just ask and then that's it. We'll say "tu", so Latitia, can you just perhaps introduce yourself quickly? Yes, should I speak this way or that way? No, you can. OK. My name is Latitia Vis, I am 35 years old, I am the owner of the restaurant La femme du boucher in Marseille in the 6th arrondissement, near Place Castellane. Okay. So, it's an old butcher shop and I only do meat. OK. Only meat. And so you are right in the city center of Marseille, we can say that. Yeah. Why is the restaurant called La femme du boucher (The Butcher's Wife)? Because the restaurant I bought was called Le Boucher. Hm hm. And the whole neighborhood was attached to this place where the butcher used to cook. There was a real butcher who displayed the meat at the entrance and this is his apartment. Okay. And in '98, because of mad cow disease, he closed his apartment because he was losing money. He started cooking at home, in fact, and people would choose their cuts of meat and he would cook them in his dining room. Incredible. And so everyone wanted me to keep the name, to do the same, and I thought, well, I'll keep it, but I won't, well, he just did one cut, one side dish, and I'm more focused on charcuterie, so I wanted to, well, romanticize the butcher a bit. And is it because it was a former butcher shop that you decided to only do charcuterie, only meat, or was that already the initial project? No, I was looking for a butcher shop. Ah, okay, okay. I was looking for a butcher shop and I realized that all the butcher shops for sale online were almost all very small businesses, and I thought, I'll put one table, or two at most. So no, I was looking for a butcher shop. I wanted to, I wanted to do that. Yeah. And you, in your restaurant, what type of meat do you cook? Do you do red meat? All types of meat, or pork, beef? Everything, everything. Me, all game, venison, well, really, the idea is to show the whole range of meat we can have. Of course, there are people who come here to eat a rib steak with fries, which I understand because it's very good. But there are also people who come to find dishes they haven't seen on the menu for years or that they haven't eaten since their grandparents' time, so there are some more original, rarer dishes, meat that is rarely consumed. Yes, they have become so over the years, offal in particular were choice cuts. Today, there is still the ribeye for whom it is the case, which remains the star of Michelin-starred restaurants. But we don't eat much beef tongue anymore, we don't eat white kidney anymore, we don't eat brains anymore. I never eat them. But I think I've never tasted them. But it's a vicious cycle, meaning that we don't offer them anymore, people don't eat them anymore. We've also made sure that on butcher shop displays, it's smoothed over to avoid shocking mentalities. So, we don't even see it anymore compared to when we were little. Before, you could find a half pig's head at the supermarket. Now, you don't even see a rabbit anymore. Everything is set aside. In fact, we make sure that people associate meat only with steak and don't connect it to animal life because, oh dear, we like to eat it, but we don't want to imagine what happened behind it. But we are the same age, more or less. I think you were born in 1990, I was born in '91 and you in '94. But so you were saying that when we were younger, in the space of what, 20 or 30 years, you observed a change in the products that could be found even in the supermarket for meat and so on. Okay. There's an evolution. There's an evolution in consumption. Again, mad cow disease is a big part of it, because at that time, offal, which are very fragile products, were heavily blamed. And so, they were removed from mass commercialization at that time. And then it was lost. And it requires a know-how and a skill that has also been lost. That is to say, before, grandmothers passed it on to their daughters, and now, in families, people don't cook that anymore. People hardly cook at all anymore. Even for Christmas or for a festive product at Christmas, you wouldn't make lamb brains for your guests, you see. It's too divisive. There's too much chance that half the table won't want to eat it, you see. Except perhaps in very bourgeois or very traditional families. But it's rare, I imagine. Even the brains, frankly, I think it's very rare. Yeah. Yeah. It's true. And it's also hard to find now. Okay. You see, even if you want to make it, you have to anticipate it. You can't just decide on a whim, I'm going to cook brains for lunch. You have to, you have to reserve it, you have to, well. And you have to find a butcher who agrees to order it for you. Frankly, it's not easy. Okay. And you, specifically, how did you? It's true that we don't pass on this thing of cooking brains and so on. How did you train for that? How did you learn? And it must be very difficult to find, to recruit people who know how to do it, right? Well, I was lucky enough to come across chefs who were a bit, sorry, I think it was someone coming in. A motorcycle. Okay. I was lucky enough to come across chefs who knew, who, well, who still had it on their menu. There was a whole, in fact, when I started cooking, more or less, just before, there was a revival of these products, but it was still something niche, particularly with chefs like Yves Camdeborde, who created this bistronomy movement with the desire to use their gastronomic know-how but with much simpler and less noble products. That is to say, they started from the observation that on one hand, you have the gastronomic restaurant where you eat lobster and truffle, and on the other hand, you have the neighborhood bistro where you eat sausage with bad spinach, and so they said, well, we'll use our gastronomic know-how but serve, for example, Yves Camdeborde was one of the first to serve an andouillette in a palace. Okay, yes, it's true that an andouillette can be surprising in a palace, yes. And yet, now we see so many different things, trompe-l'oeil, molecular cuisine, things like that, but at the time, it was a complete revolution to do something like that. It was, well. Okay. And go ahead. No, we said it, it's 8 AM. Do you come every day at 8 AM? What are your hours like for a chef like you? Oh yeah. What does a typical day look like for a chef like you? Well, a typical day depends on the periods. For example, during the Christmas period, I can arrive at 6 AM and leave at midnight without a break. Okay. Because there are the two services too. We are closed two evenings plus the weekend, so there you go, but on the other hand, yes, there are orders for pâté en croûte and charcuterie to take away, in addition to everyone coming to party before the party. I mean, they are all ready to get going on December 24th, and on the 20th, 21st, 22nd, they are all there saying, no, we're preparing. Okay, okay. But today, for example, a normal day, it's what? February 4th or 5th, a Friday. Normally, it's 9 AM. The whole team arrives at 9 AM, including me, because I drop off my baby at 8:30 AM at the crèche. Yeah. And after, well, basically the break is around 3 PM and we resume at 6 PM until about 11:30 PM. Okay. Oh yeah. OK. And during the break, do you stay at the restaurant? Do you go home? No, rarely. Well, I used to do it a bit before, and I love those moments when I'm alone in the restaurant, when there's no noise, I put my music on loud. I like those moments, especially to, well, I'm much more focused, much more efficient when I'm alone. But well, now, yes, I take advantage of it because with the baby in the matrix, I'm forced to take this time to go do the sports I used to do in my free time or take a nap if necessary. That's good too. And do you manage to truly switch off, to rest when you, with these hours, when you're not supposed to be working? Is it difficult for a chef? I think that's a question many people ask. It's learned. Yeah. It's not natural. It's a very demanding job. We're always in it, and even when we're not, it's like all business owners. I have the restaurant's call forwarding, so my phone rings, it's for a reservation. I receive emails. Well, in fact, and I made the mistake, like many people, of buying an Apple Watch that constantly reminded me of work. So I decided to cut back by stopping wearing that Apple Watch. For example, when I get home, I try to put my phone aside. I try, I emphasize disconnecting. We did a podcast episode on disconnecting where it's the same. Well, it's impossible. For me, it's impossible for a few days. It's very hard in the long term. It's hard to keep up. It's horrible. And then, well, I worked with a coach, particularly on these issues. Oh yeah! Oh yeah, we saw a report where you were with the coach. Just before perhaps talking about that, it's true that when you said it, but it's true that when you look at the restaurant's hours, you're closed on weekends. That's original. It's, well, original, I don't know. I have the impression that in the neighborhood, quite a few restaurants close on weekends. I'm thinking of Suffren, for example. But is it? Yeah, is it common or is it also a choice to perhaps disconnect as well? Well, I'd say it's also generational. If you look at most of the restaurants that are closed on weekends, they are often run by people my age who have suffered too much from working all the time. Well, in fact, we create a disconnect with the rest of the world. Now, I understand that people want to go out on weekends, but ultimately, at first, I had a bit of trouble with my clientele, and then, well, they organize themselves to come on Monday evenings. And it's not a problem, in fact. On the other hand, it allows me to have a much richer social life. Well, when I say much richer, it allows me to interact with people other than restaurateurs, which wasn't the case before. You know, you say it wasn't the case before for older generations, for example. No, yes, for older generations. And it wasn't the case for me either before, when I worked in other restaurants and worked weekends, and especially on holidays, that is, Christmas, New Year's Day, well, I missed out on a lot of family events. And obviously, when people go out and want to party, well, we are urban. So we are always out of sync, and even the times we want to go out or are invited to a party, we arrive at 12:30 AM, everyone is doubled over laughing, we're coming off service, we're hot, we're in great shape, and we say, "Okay, I'll have a beer and go home." Well, in fact, it's all the time. So, you end up only interacting with restaurateurs. We go to restaurateurs' places. Particularly in Paris, we all used to meet at a place called Le Tambour, which is open until 7 AM. It's a club, a club, a nightclub, it's a restaurant. A restaurant. Okay, you can eat at 4 AM. But in fact, for us, 4 AM is the end, I mean, it's almost the end of our day. Well, we've stretched it a bit, but but so there you go, it's quite enslaving, and then you find yourself, well, you find yourself trapped. So there you go, it's also, and then the other thing is that by being open all the time, which is also why I'm closed two nights a week, you can't respect the 39 hours. It's not possible. If you do 10 services a week, so lunch and dinner 5 days a week, you're necessarily over 39 hours. That's because the contracts are for 39 hours for each employee. Maximum legal. Okay. So either you hire a second team, or you accept being outside the rules, being exploited. After, some people are happy to do that and get paid their overtime, and in that case, why not? But it remains, it remains illegal. So that means that the day the employee is unhappy about anything, they turn against their boss and it's over. Good night. Well, anyway, and it's a job that requires endurance, that requires concentration. So in fact, a tired staff is a staff that will get injured, that will get hurt. Well, in the kitchen, obviously, we imagine, but even in the dining room, it will be, yeah. A slip with a tray, a glass shattering in your hand, well, a workplace accident that can happen quickly. You shouldn't play with fatigue in the restaurant industry. But for you, we also saw that the issue of well-being is essential in your profession, it's really something important. Did you work in other great establishments before, other institutions, particularly in Paris, I believe. Do you find that, for example, you've already said it a bit, but in these great establishments, these big restaurants, the issue of well-being is not respected, there is a bit of mistreatment, or no, is it getting better? Is there an evolution? Are we moving in the right direction, do you think? Well, it's not a question of big establishment or not. I mean, I've also seen very small restaurants where the chefs were abusive. I mean, it's not always the chef, you know. Sometimes it's the sous-chef, sometimes it's the chef de partie. In fact, the restaurant industry is an inheritance that comes from the army. So we have the same hierarchy, we have, well. So rule number 1, the chef is always right. Rule number 2, if the chef is wrong, refer to rule number 1. That's what we learn, no matter what. After, what's delicate is that we have a real need in this profession for rigor, which is indispensable because we have, let's not mince words, we have people's lives in our hands. Someone who is allergic, if we are not rigorous, they can end up on a ventilator. So in fact, we are obliged to have something very, very strict, but obviously, that leaves room for a lot of excesses where we set the limits. When does it stop? Yes, we are a profession of passion, so everyone relies on that, on the pretext that cooks are passionate, well, we can do whatever we want with them, as many hours as we want, and they'll never complain. And it's true, and there's also an inheritance from generation to generation that says that someone who has been oppressed all their life, the day they become head chef, they will do the same. Or even, it's enriching for them because either the apprentice or the commis becomes as strong as them, and in that case, they have trained a gladiator. Or the person cracks and leaves the profession. In that case, they have cleared the field of a, well, a cockroach. So it's very perverse. Yeah. And for example, today, as you said, there's a new generation perhaps that pays more attention to well-being, to respecting hours. Is it hard for you to recruit, to find people? We hear a lot of restaurateurs saying it's hard to recruit. Is that the case for you, or is it hard to find the right person? Yeah. But it's not hard to find someone. Yes. Okay. After, it's just that obviously we have expectations and we always look at the neighbor. We always feel like the grass is greener elsewhere. But hard to recruit, I don't know. I think of Duang, my right-hand man, for example, who arrived out of the blue one day, he came to eat and told me, "Well, I'm looking for extras," and then a week later, he told me, "No, actually, I want to work here." And we've been working together for 3 years. And he has, he has changed my life, that guy. That is to say, thanks to him, I was able to have a child, for example. Or well, if I hadn't been able to rely on him, I wouldn't have had the means to close the restaurant during my pregnancy, plus the birth, plus, well, or it would have been chaotic, so I would have managed, but it would have been with him, everything is simple. But in fact, one person is enough. Here, I do something very specific. So the cooks who come here are very convinced by what I do. Convinced by the values of the cuisine too. Hello buddy. Hello. The team is arriving. Hello. How are you? Yeah. Make yourself a coffee if you want. Yeah, it's hard. Hello Nathan. Nice to meet you. Hello Violine. You too. Yeah, exactly. Exactly, that's why. Okay. So very good, and yes, convinced that the cooks were convinced and that in the dining room there was, well, more turnover. So the waiters come and go. That's what we mean by dining room not being there. The last head waiter stayed 2 years. The one before him too. No, but I don't know, it's not a question of, it's, I, no, but it's okay. It's okay. The oven, the kitchen is on. No, I think the difference is that in service, they might be convinced by a wine list or by what they serve, but it doesn't touch them as much. What animates the kitchen team much more is that they will learn and achieve things they might not do elsewhere. And I also think that with Duang, for example, we've created a kind of pool where when he wants to create a recipe, I support him and we discuss it, even if it's something he's never done or that he's imagined, or maybe it won't work, but we don't know, we'll think about it together, and vice versa, when it's me who has a crazy idea. After, we are, we are both a bit, a bit crazy, in the sense that when one of us has a weird idea, the other will add fuel to the fire instead of saying, "Are you sure?" So we feed off each other like that. So it's sure that a restaurant run by a chef, a female chef, is quite different. For me, of course, the kitchen part, it takes up much more space. And what was the last crazy idea you got carried away with? I'd say the last crazy idea, well, crazy, Diang isn't, at the moment he's quite interested in game because obviously we don't do fish, and that's something that's starting to frustrate him a bit. Okay. When you live in Marseille, not doing fish, well, it's a stance, but it can be frustrating. Yeah, that's it. Well, it's a stance, and at the same time, when you see the meteorological apocalypse right now, boats go out very little. In fact, I also had that in mind at the very beginning, which was that I thought, but it's so complicated to have fish daily, fresh Marseille fish daily, it's tough. Yeah, most of the good fish already go to Rungis and come back to Marseille, which for me is an absolute aberration. And besides, well, as soon as there's the mistral wind, they don't go out. So, well, it's too dependent on the climate, in fact. Yeah. And Rungis, which is the largest market in France where restaurateurs also come to stock up, and it's near Paris, so it's true that it makes no sense to go back and forth. Well, it's sad. I mean, we talk about carbon footprint, we say we have to consume locally, and our fish that comes from here has made a round trip to Paris. So it's still, so it will have written Mediterranean origin, but it will have made the round trip to Paris. So it's, yeah. So no, there you go, I don't remember anymore. Yes, Teremer, for example, he made a Monkfish Wellington with black garlic, and frankly, it works very well. But I mean, on paper, I wasn't sure, and in fact, I was sure it would be good, but I wasn't sure if customers would be receptive, and in fact, it sells like hotcakes. Really? Yeah, great expression. It sells like hotcakes, it sells incredibly well. It sells well. It appeals to French people, to foreigners, to everyone. Is there a specific audience that likes this kind of challenge? Let's say. Well, I think over time, we've managed to build a clientele of curious people. That is to say, most people who come here know that yes, there is meat and there are simple things to eat. Well, simple, I mean, you can find a chicken galantine with pistachios, things that are not necessarily adventurous. But on the other hand, if you want to eat tripe, or if you want to eat game, or if you want to eat pork tongue, it's possible here. And many of them say, let's take the plunge, I'll try something I wouldn't normally order or that scares me a bit, and well, if they don't like it, we'll do something else, and that's it. I prefer people who venture out and say, "No, actually, I made a mistake, it's too much for me." But the people who come here, I think, are curious, that's for sure. They are ready, well, to try new things. Perhaps you have a question, Violen, you can say something. Before we started the interview, you told us that in the summer there were a lot of tourists, foreign clients, particularly Americans. That's right. And why do they choose your restaurant to eat? What do you think? Well, I think it's because we have, well, first of all, because we're in the area, so that helps. Or and then because, well, I think in terms of traditional French cuisine, for a foreigner who wants to discover iconic recipes, here, particularly the pâté en croûte, I know that right now it's a very trendy product. Well, here, they will find, in any case, a range of quite typical products, and at the same time, if they are hesitant and just want to eat a steak, well, that's possible too. So, and then the wine list is quite extensive and brings together, well, all the regions of France. So there's also the possibility of drinking either, as we say, a big bottle, or a small bottle of wine for €25, I mean, you can. Okay. So you have a lot of Americans. Do you have other nationalities that come? Can you tell? What's the ratio of French to foreign in your clientele? Do you know approximately? 90% 10% or? Yeah. All year round, I have almost only French people, except during certain holiday periods, where I will have Swedes, a bit of, a bit of, I'd say Asian, Chinese, quite a bit. Okay. Japanese, mainly. And otherwise, yeah, the United States in the summer is crazy. Oh yeah, yeah. Especially in the summer, a lot of Americans. Yeah, yeah. Okay, but we know that there are more and more foreign tourists, particularly Americans, Irish, etc., who come to Marseille, whereas before it was a bit more frowned upon, let's say. It's trendy too. But in fact, they do a whole tour of Provence, it's not necessarily Marseille. They'll stop in Marseille, but on the other hand, Americans I spoke to recently told me, "Ah yes, Provence, the lavender fields, Mont Sainte-Victoire." They even told me things, I mean, Mont Sainte-Victoire is a bit more specific. I mean, yes, okay, Marseille, Notre-Dame de la Garde, very good. But they have, there are still a lot of things that make our region dream, and at very reasonable distances. I mean, if you arrive in Marseille, you rent a car, you stay for 15 days, you can do a lot of things. Especially when you're Canadian, American, Australian, where the distances are not the same. That's clear. Mont Sainte-Victoire, which is the mountain of Aix. Yes, opposite Aix-en-Provence, and in all the paintings, particularly by Cézanne, etc., we see it, maybe that's why they know it, I don't know. Perhaps the question of being really, we're moving from the cockalan. From the cockalan. But the question of being, just perhaps quickly, but if possible, the question of being a woman in the kitchen in this environment, how is it? We know you're part of an association too. I don't know if you're still part of "Les étoiles et des femmes" (Stars and Women). Is it easier than before? How do you think about it in general compared to before? Yes, easier than before, for sure. In fact, it's just a question of representation. When I started this profession 15 years ago, I was always the only one in the brigades. Generally, we were one or two out of 15, or even so, obviously now it's much more ingrained. I think Top Chef helped a lot. Yeah. The show that airs on TV. There were a lot of, there were a lot of men at one point in this show, but we saw some female profiles. In fact, television politically today is obliged to respect a form of parity that doesn't necessarily exist in our profession. But on the other hand, in terms of representation, it's important. In fact, a little girl today who watches Top Chef will say, "Well, yes, I have my place." Whereas 15 years ago, when I started this profession, the only references I had were Hélène Darroze, well, and Anne-Sophie Pic, in Valence. There, we're talking about a 3-star dream, I mean, in terms of, well, it was hard to project yourself. It's hard to compare, to identify with female chefs, there are plenty. They are, well, they are accessible. Most kitchens are open, they are no longer necessarily big restaurants. You can talk to them, social media helps too. So yes, it's easier than before. There are still some jerks around, but they are increasingly worried about their names being exposed. So, we're moving towards better. Okay. A bit less toxic than before, perhaps, this environment. Yeah, because we saw that you participated in an article where you talked about #MeToo in the kitchen, and that's a question we're asked a lot. Many of our students, particularly American, English-speaking ones, say, "Oh, we feel like you're behind in France on the #MeToo movement in general." Do you think that in the kitchen too, we're a bit behind on that? I think we're extremely behind. Yeah. Extremely behind. Well, why, I don't know. I have the impression that in the entire Anglo-Saxon world, they woke up much earlier than us. For example, the other day, I was watching a report on high-level sports coaches. That was denounced in England, for example, 10 years ago. I mean, today in France, we're just starting to talk about this sports coach relationship and all the abuses that can exist. No, for sure. I even spoke with Australian women who told me that their children in primary school had a week of awareness about bullying at school. I mean, there are a lot of things, I say to myself, but why, why are we so far behind? So yes, #MeToo in the kitchen started not long ago, and it's slow because we don't want to bring down the big names in French gastronomy. In fact, French gastronomy is one of the things that makes France shine internationally. The great chefs too, obviously, each independently. And so, consequently, there are heads we don't want to see fall, especially those who appear on television. So they are ultra-protected, and they often work in places where there are a lot of investors behind them. So it's the same, it means bringing down a colossal fortune. There are certain names in palaces that we hear a lot about lately. It's a real mess. There's a name that came out who had participated in Top Chef a few years ago, Athénée. Yeah. And so, I imagine, I don't know, but I imagine that he no longer works at Plaza Athénée. But yes, surely it must have a bit of an effect. I think he still works there. Oh yeah, I think he still works there. Yeah, yeah. No, it's much more, it's much more complicated than, well, I hadn't, in fact, there have also been scandals.
Regarding chefs who have committed suicide, notably, or in any case, particularly those who have been much talked about, where necessarily, well, there has been a bit of a step back. That chef, when he was denounced and, well, he committed suicide. And so, following that, there was never a trial. He was portrayed as a victim by, well, many people. Everything was reversed, and we never got the full story in the end. So, it's quite astonishing, and I think it has cooled down quite a few people because there is the notion of presumption of innocence, which is still very strong in France, as long as there hasn't been a trial. It's true that it's very protected, in fact.
So, in the culinary world, what is there? There are names that are exchanged, like, "Be careful of this chef," and so on, but there are no major denunciations. There have been a few, but it's too difficult, it's too much risk. You almost have to be out of the profession to denounce someone, because afterward, you could also have your career broken. Some people are afraid. No, no one can break your career. No, of course. There are far too many restaurants in the world.
Now, I know that was part of the threats at the time. It was, "If you talk, we'll break you. If you leave, you won't work anywhere else." No one has the power to stop you. Can you imagine the number of restaurants in the world? I mean, it's not possible. But, but no, it's more the fact that it won't be heard. There are complaints filed in police stations about this or that chef, and in fact, they end up at the bottom of the pile or in the trash, and people say, "Yeah, we're not going to talk about it too much." Hello. Hi. Good morning. We're not going to spread it around. Anyway.
No, it's more that, in fact, it's like these are chefs who have power, and then, well, a young woman or a young man who will file a complaint because they were hit, or well, they'll say, "You got a little pat on the ass, we're not going to make a fuss about it when we see all the money he brings in, the media power he has." But in fact, what becomes dangerous is that there's one, then two, then three, then ten, and then it starts to get talked about, and then it explodes on TV. We say, "Oh really, but oh, it's really crazy, there are sales of complaints." Well, yes, but guys, in fact, well, maybe it's true that chefs or male chefs are perhaps more careful now, they take precautions when they talk to their employees.
In any case, it's true that on TV, I stumbled upon a report from years ago, I think it was quite recent, the 2000s. It was in the United States, it was a French chef who was practically insulting his brigade and so on. Perhaps today, on TV at least, it's certain that he wouldn't do it, but there you go, perhaps there's a little awakening or not? How so? Now you're talking about violence in general, violence in general, even. And then, I think quite a few have cleaned up their act because they were afraid. In fact, whatever the reason, if they do it because they're scared and they think, "It's going to come back to me eventually, and it's getting better," well, ultimately, that's already a win. Okay. But yes, yes, indeed, they are much more careful. Today, we know that everyone can film, that it can leak. Everything moves much faster with social media. Before, when we had a restaurant lost in the middle of nowhere in Burgundy, you could harass your little apprentice before it spread around. Well, now, for that, social media is great, really.
But yes, but also the representation, I think about Top Chef, there was during Covid, there was a candidate who lost an eye because, yes, Malorie. Malorie, because, yes, it was hazing in the kitchen that went wrong. So it was boiling water, acid, really. Oh! Oh, I see. That goes far. Well, these are the products we use to clean the oven, but in fact, it's a mistake, isn't it? Well, no, no, no, it's a face, I think. Well, in fact, it's often, it's often, well, humor, hazing, or things that are not, well, these are traditions that are still perpetuated. It's not supposed to be serious, it's supposed to be for fun, and well, it ends with a broken arm, with an eye missing, with, well, it's extremely serious. I know a kid who was thrown from a bridge for hazing, there was no depth, he ended up with six fractures. Okay. So it's also, it's not ill-intentioned, but in fact, it never stops because it's always, "Oh, well, last time they did that to me, so I'll add a layer, I'll add a layer," and then it inevitably ends badly.
We have the same problem with doctors in medicine, they continue hazing, and there are tragedies every year, still this year, I think. And we talked earlier about you having a coach. We know there are many challenges today in restaurants in France. We know there are also for you. We saw a report on it, but what are your biggest challenges today in 2026 for the restaurant? Well, we know that prices are increasing, that, well, everything is increasing, in fact. Yes, it's very hot right now. It's very, very hot. Well, for everyone, we are completely, the restaurant industry is a dying field right now, generally and globally, because, well, everything is increasing, but not salaries. So people have less money, less purchasing power, and what goes first? Well, it's leisure, like, like what we're part of. So obviously, instead of going out once a week or twice a week, people will go out once a month. And there are more and more restaurants opening in Marseille. So we are all, we are all suffocating a bit, and in Marseille.
So, again, it must be said, you make incredible dishes. You're also on social media, so I imagine it's perhaps even worse for others because you do quality work. So it's even complicated for restaurants that do quality, that do good food. That's what's crazy. I'm not sure, because I think in those cases, people will rather go for something that costs them less. It's the price above all, now we look at the price. It's the price. And so, well, they say, "Hey, the butcher's wife, I'm going to eat French beef." It's a cut, it's beautiful, marbled, but it's, well, I don't have it, it's at a certain price, and on the old port, I'll eat the same thing for 15 euros less." Well, they'll say, "Hey, probably the same, I went to the old port," and in fact, I have no judgment about that. My purchasing power is also reduced. Understand, groceries have increased, everything has increased, it's difficult to make ends meet. Obviously, we are the first to be cut, but it's a bit frustrating, in fact. We wonder when it will stop, and we wonder a bit what the solution is, because for now, we are waiting.
And what have you had to change to adapt? I know that in the report I saw, you were talking about either quantities or quality having to decrease. Did you choose? I haven't reduced the quantities. I haven't reduced the, well, neither the quality nor the quantities. No, well, listen, it's not, I should, I haven't touched anything, but I can't, I can't bring myself to impoverish my plates, whether in quantity or quality, it hurts me. Well, if I do this job, it's for people to leave happy. After, it's a goal, sometimes it doesn't work. But on the other hand, I want to be sure that I've given my maximum. There you go. So, yes. And it hurts the heart to see restaurants even closed, quality restaurants closed and replaced by chains or junk food places, we see them, when we walk, even in Marseille. That's why we really need to support this type of restaurant. What hurts, yes, is seeing the number of delivery drivers with KFCs proliferating. So sometimes I think, well, in fact, this is the future of the restaurant industry, and we realize it, well, people are lazy, lazy, I hear that all the time.
Besides the price, there's also the fact that going out when it rains is an ordeal. In Marseille, when it rains, we see empty restaurants, totally empty. Yes, but when it's too hot too, when there's the mistral too. Well, in fact, it's just that people are less courageous. They want everything at home, and with a click, with Amazon or with Uber Eats, it's possible. So it's a real problem. And besides, bringing in delivery drivers when it rains, etc., I'm not sure it's great, but well, that's my personal opinion. I never order when it rains. I think about the delivery drivers too. But anyway, it's really modern slavery when you see that today they run red lights, they drive like crazy because, in fact, they are paid per trip and per delivery. They are not protected. They are not, because it was offered to me, to say, "Ah, you don't want to do take-out dishes, you put them on Uber Eats," and in fact, I say, well, it's already astonishing how unprofitable it is in the end for the restaurateur, but moreover, I have absolutely no desire to participate in this machinery. I understand. Yes. A stance again? No, no, of course.
Uh, yes, well, it's true that time, time passes. But a small question, perhaps afterward, can we look at, show a pâté en croûte if you have one, or is it possible? Okay. So, just one last question because this might be interesting. You've lived in Marseille for almost 10 years, or Provence, I thought I saw on your website. You're from Paris originally. Why did you decide to come to Provence and to Marseille? Well, at first, I left Paris for a love story that didn't work out, but well, I thank him because I enjoyed myself in the South, and then I met my husband, I bought this restaurant, so there you go. But once I found myself, I settled in Provence, I wasn't happy, not, well, in fact, I couldn't find what I wanted on all levels. So I arrived in Marseille with my little suitcase and my cat under my arm, not knowing anyone, saying to myself, "Well, I'm not going to go back to Paris." And I was welcomed like a princess, and I realized that there were many things to do. There were many people eager to do them. Well, really, 10 years ago, Marseille was the land of all possibilities. It was great. And, and there you go. And that's also why "La femme du boucher" exists, and I think that in Paris, well, in any case, I wouldn't have had the means to do the same thing in Paris. But moreover, with 300 days of sunshine a year, it's cool. Yes, even if we haven't had sun for a month. Yes. There, there, we're in the tough times. We'll catch up. So, you don't plan to return to Paris? No. Okay. Never. Even if you shouldn't say never. Okay. No, you shouldn't say never. But honestly, if I had to leave Marseille, it wouldn't be Paris, I think. Ah, ex? No. Return to Aix? Ah, well, great. There will be space and competition. Yes. Personally, French gastronomy. Okay. Well, great.
Perhaps we can show what you do, a pâté en croûte. It's true, follow Latitia Vis. That's it. On Instagram. There are very beautiful photos and beautiful pâtés en croûte. And "La femme du boucher" too. There are two different accounts, but we'll put everything in the description. So, well, let's go. Let's go. Can we come? Yes, of course. Wait, they're a bit, oops, I'll take a whole one, maybe it will be prettier. There. I'm right-handed, so I can't cut the slice from the other side. Oh, yes. Oops. I like the big heads of beautiful. There. So this one is a pâté en croûte without pork. Without pork. Okay. Yes. Because traditionally it's with pork. Yes. Like almost all charcuterie. Okay. Except that here we have foie gras, magret, guinea fowl, pistachio, the walls. Incredible. Oops, foie gras. Okay. So here, there's only poultry. And do you change the recipes regularly? Yes, every time. Every time, you mean? Yes, every time. Well, this one, I made it the day before yesterday. I poured it, I cooled it yesterday. So, that's why it's very crumbly, you see, and very crispy. So this is where it's technically the best, but also the most difficult to cut. And as time goes by, in fact, the filling gets better with time, but on the other hand, the pastry will become less and less crumbly. It will inevitably become a bit moist, well, with the meat and the jelly, but, well, I prefer crispy pastry. So I prefer it at this stage. And is this eaten as an appetizer? It's eaten as an appetizer. Yes. After, some people have it just for an aperitif. It's, I mean, it can just be a bouche. Okay.
Well, do you want to taste it? Yes, with pleasure. It's too late. At 9 am? 9 am what? 9 am? Yes. It's very crumbly now, but you'll see the pastry, it's very buttery. Do you want a little piece? CV? Yes. A little CV this morning. It's a dish historically from Lyon. No, this isn't Lyonnais. The pâté en croûte. Yes. Uh, honestly, I don't know. Everyone has their version. I, I approach sensitive subjects. The film while tasting. Really? Ah, yes, it's a delight with the puff pastry. No, it's a shortcrust pastry, but well, there's a lot of butter in it. Well, thank you very much, in any case. With pleasure. Thank you. Thank you for coming to La femme du boucher in Marseille. We're waiting for you. Mhm.