The Geography of Uttarakhand

Uttarakhand state is diverse. In this tract of Himalayas between rivers Tons and Kali, there are some of the highest peaks of India. There are thousands of Glaciers, and rivers like Ganga and Yamuna emerging from them. There are beautiful valleys and hills, dense forests and open grasslands. There's even a desert. But all this, and a lot more other stuff, is exactly where? Let's see.

You might have studied about the geography of Himalayas in your childhood. The ranges of Greater & lesser Himalayas and foothills run Parallel to each other in descending order of heights. Below them are the plains of Bhabhar and Terai, etc. Chances are, you also know about Rivers and their basins. Would be helpful in the video ahead. Anyway, Himalayas are not a continuous chain of hills. It's surprising that a row of 7 to 8000-meter-high peaks is crossed by rivers like Indus, Sutlej, Karnali, Arun-Koshi and Brahmaputra. Even being 2,500 kilometers long and 8 Km high doesn't make Himalayas a good water divide. In Uttarakhand, however, no river crosses from Tibet to India; this fact actually determines the border with Tibet (China). But a lot of rivers flow around the high mountains, dividing them into certain groups, or ranges. In exchange, the hills are the origin of the rivers; they guide these rivers and define their basins. To understand the geography of Uttarakhand, you need to understand both its mountains and its rivers. Let's start with the mountains.

Starting with greater Himalayas (Himadri), there are 6 major ranges of Himadri in Uttarakhand, separated from each other by some major rivers. Going East to West, There is an offshoot of Nepal's Gurans Himal under jurisdiction of Uttarakhand. And there is a territory dispute regarding this and Byans Valley between India-Nepal. Which is based on the uncertainty in the valid headstream of river Kali. In this tiny tract, there is Om Parwat and Lipulekh Pass, which is on the way to Kailash-Mansarovar. Coming back to 6 ranges of Uttarakhand, to the west of Kuti river, originating near Limpiyadhura pass, comes Adi Kailash range. Where we have Brahma Parwat as the highest peak, and Adi Kailash peak itself is there. To the west of Darma, or Eastern Dhauliganga river, we have Panchachuli range. Here, along with Panchachuli group, whose second peak is the highest in the range, we also have other major peaks like Rajrambha and Chiring We. This range goes to Chhipla peak in the south. To the west of Milam glacier-originating Gori Ganga, we have Nanda Devi range. Where we have Nanda Devi, the highest peak of Uttarakhand. The entire barrier ring and mountains like Trishul, Maiktoli and Sunanda devi are also here. From Nanda Kot, a spur, or a ridgeline goes on to Khaliya Bugyal (high altitude grassland), below which is Munsiyari. Similarily, a spur originating from Trishul goes on south to Roopkund and Bedini -Ali Bugyal. And a spur of Nanda Ghungti peak goes west to Auli-Gorson Bugyal. These rivers originate here. To the west of Niti Pass-originating Dhauli Ganga, other one, we have Kamet Group. Here, we have Kamet as the highest peak (7756m), which is the second highest in Uttarakhand as well. Other high peaks are Abi Gamin, Hathi Parwat and Deoban. In this range, there are Valley of Flowers and Hemkund Sahib as well. To the west of Mana pass-originating Saraswati and Alaknanda, there is Gangotri range. The highest peak here is Chaukhamba I, and Gangotri, Satopanth, Kedarnath, Sri Kailash etc are other major peaks. But the most important thing in this range would be The second biggest glacier in India, Gangotri Glacier. Gangotri Glacier terminates at Gomukh, considered as the Traditional source of River Ganga. And from here, originates the traditional headstream of Ganga, Bhagirathi. Alaknanda, Jadh Ganga, Mandakini, and Kalpa Ganga rivers also originate here. A spur of Kedarnath goes on south to Panwali Kantha Bugyal, and ahead in the spurs emerging from Chaukhamba are Madhmaheshwar, Tungnath and Rudranath temples. One more spur goes to east, and terminates at Nilkantha peak, below which is Badrinath. Similarly, in the valley below Kedarnath peak is Kedarnath Temple. To the west of Jadh Ganga and Bhagirathi, the final range is Bandarpoonchh. Where Kalanag is the highest peak. Bandarpoonch and Swargrohini peaks are also here. Yamuna Tons and Asi Ganga originate here. A spur from Bandarpooch leads us west to Kedarkantha, and another towards the south to Dayara Bugyal. Har Ki Doon Valley is also in this range.

The ranges of Middle Himalayas (Himachal) are very scattered. There borders are complex and ill-defined. Neither their heights are very significant. In these, Dudhatoli, Nag Tibba and Chakrata Kharamba ranges are the only ones crossing 3,000m in altitude. To the south, Mussoorie, Lansdowne and Gagar ranges create something of a row of high hills as you enter the plains. In these, Gagar range is known for its lakes. And, I am standing in front of the highest and most popular one of them. Apart from Nainital, we also have Bhimtal, Khurpatal and other ones. Here, we have numerous large lakes because it rains and snows a lot here. These hills are very high. Cheena peak behind me crosses 2600m ASL. To the north, the valley of Kosi and Almora are very dry relatively, because these hills attract and block the precipitation coming in from south. At the bottom, we have a series of hills running parallel to the middle Himalayas, called Shivaliks. And contrary to the dendritic ridgeline structure of Greater and Middle Himalayas, Shivaliks are usually linear in shape. There heights barely crosses 12-1300 meters; these are covered in dense forests and very little population is settled here. Himalayan rivers usually run parallel to these, and sometimes these rivers carve out a large, open valley for themselves between Shivaliks and middle himalayas, called Doon Valley. Dehradun is the most popular example of that. It is a Doon Valley of Song and Asan river. After Shivalik ranges, plains begin. First comes the Bhabhar Belt, which is a result of coarse sediments settled by rivers. Most of the water in rivers percolates and disappears, only to return to the surface in Terai belt to south. Terai plains are made up of finer sediments washed down by rivers. In Terai- Bhabhar and portions of the plains, more than half of the population of Uttarakhand resides.

Now, let's look at it from another angle, through the point of view from the powers that divide these massive ranges. Let's see the geography of Uttarakhand through its rivers and their basins. But first, a little lesson on geography. For a water body, it's basin is the area around it where all the flowing water converges into that water body itself finally. The line dividing one basin from the other is called a water divide, or, if you are not american, a watershed. Coming back to Uttarakhand, entire state falls in the basin of Ganga, but since that fact is all but useless for the purposes of this video, let's divide Ganga into its tributaries. Now, we get 6 basins. You can go further ahead, divide these into their tributaries as well, but 6 are enough for this video. Let's see these one by one. Apart from Yamuna, Tons is a major river in Yamuna Basin. Actually, it is the biggest. Both emerge from Bandarpoonch range, Yamuna from the south and a headstream of Tons called Supin from the north. Ahead in the course, Tons meets Rupin river at Naitwar, and Pabar in Tyuni, both emerging from Himachal Pradesh. Further ahead at Kalsi, Tons meets Yamuna. The northern boundary of the basin is formed by Yamuna-Baspa Watershed. To the east, a ridgeline of Bandarpooch separates it from Bhagirathi Basin. To the south, this line skirts around Aglad river, passing through Nag Tibba, Dhanaulti and Mussoorie to reach shivaliks through Dehradun. The basin is spread till Shimla to the west, but Tons River forms the boundary of the state. Entire northern part of the basin is dedicated to Govind Wild Life Sanctuary and National Park. Har Ki Doon Valley is there as well. This basin also contains Jaunsar, Bawar and Rawain regions, which are culturally distinct from rest of the state. This basin contains these places.

Bhagirathi is the longest river in Garhwal. It originates from Gangotri Glacier. Ahead in its course, it meets Jadh Ganga, Asi Ganga and Bhilangna. The northern bounds of the basin are is formed by Bhagirathi Sutlej Watershed. Which also forms the international border between India and China (Tibet). From Mana pass, Bhagirathi-Alaknanda Watershed takes the eastern boundary of the basin to Chaukhamba I. From there, this line continues south via Kedarnath peak to end at Deoprayag. From here onwards, to the south is Ganga Basin, on the watershed of which lies Chamba and Surkanda Devi Temple. The entire northern region of this basin is dedicated to Gangotri N.P.. Jadh Ganga's basin also lies here, which is a cold desert like Ladakh. This basin has these places.

Panch Prayag (5 holy confluences) are on Alaknanda river. Where 5 major rivers merge with it. One is Bhagirathi, other four are Mandakini, which emerges from Kedarnath, Pindar emerging from Pindari Glacier, Nandakini originating from Trishul peak and Dhauli Ganga, originating at Niti Pass. Alaknanda itself emerges near Chaukhamba peak, at the confluence of Satopanth and Bhagirath Kharak Glacier. Alaknanda's basin is right in the center of the state. And, there's a lot to see here. Panch Prayag, Panch Kedar and Panch Badri, all are here. 10 highest peaks of Uttarakhand are here. Grasslands like Auli and Bedini are here, along with glaciers like Pindari and Sundardhunga. The northern bounds of Basin stretches from Mana to Kungri-Bingri Pass. Western bound goes south through Unta Dhura Pass, Traill Pass, and Nandakot peak to reach here, where I am right now. Alaknanda-Kali water divide, on which I am walking right now, to my left is Saryu's basin and to the right is Pindar's, is one of the biggest factors in affecting culture and history of Uttarakhand. Because on one side of this line is Kumaon, and on the other side is Garhwal. Mostly. Right now, that side is Kumaon as well, but only till that ridgeline. After that, this watershed line continues to divide Kumaon and Garhwal, and goes through Gwaldum, the LA Hall at Gairsain to reach Dudhatoli. Now, to the south are basins of Ramganga, and ahead, Nayar. Further ahead, the line goes through Pauri and Chandrabadni to reach Deoprayag. These places are in this basin.

Kali is the longest river of Uttarakhand. Kali originates near Lipulekh pass. And Kalapani onwards, entire river marks the boundary between India and Nepal. Kali meets Kuti river ahead, which drains Byans Valley. Downstream at Tawaghat, Darma/Dhauli river of Darma Valley meets Kali. Further ahead, Milam Glacier-originating and flowing through Johar Valley, Gori Ganga meets Kali at Jauljibi. Ahead at Pancheshwar, Kali meets Saryu river. Saryu emerges from southern spurs of Nanda Devi Group, and And in the valley of Bageshwar, Gomati river meets Saryu. At Rameshwar, Panar river and Namik Glacier- originating Ramganga East meets Saryu. Before reaching the plains, Ladhiya river emerging near Devidhura meets Kali. In the plains, the river is known as Sharda. The highest point of the basin is Nanda Devi east. The northern bound of basin stretches from Unta Dhura to Lipulekh pass, formed by Kali-Sutlej and Kali-Karnali Watersheds. In the south, basin's bounds goes through Shivaliks, and then north to Binsar. Ahead, it goes through Kausani to terminate at Angyari Mahadev at the junction with Alaknanda-Kali watershed. In this basin, we have Askot Musk Deer and Wildlife Sanctuary. Kali's massive basin is home to peaks like Panchachuli and Nandakot. On the other hand, vast valleys like Katyur, Sor and Kali Kumaon are here as well. These valleys have towns like Bageshwar, Pithoragarh, Champawat and Lohaghat. Other than these, Kali Basin has these towns.

Western Ramganga river originates from eastern slopes of Dudhatoli. Ahead it meets Gagas river emerging from Bhatkot hills. In the shivaliks, Kalagarh dam forms the largest lake of Uttarakhand, which is a reservoir of Ramganga. Other rivers meet Ramganga to the south, in Uttar Pradesh. One of them is Khoh river, flowing through Dugadda and Kotdwar and merging with Ramganga from the west. Similarly, to the east is the basin of Kosi River. Further east is Gaula river, which flows through Haldwani, Kathgodam and Kichha. All three meet Ramganga ahead, which itself meets Ganga just before Kannauj. Whereas one other river, Nandhaur, and its branch Deoha goes through Nanak Sagar to meet Ganga at Kannauj separately. This basin has famous conservation areas of Uttarakhand, like these on screen. Towards Kumaon, we have massive open valleys here as well, like these. In terai, there are large towns and cities like these. These towns are in this basin as well.

Ahead of Devprayag, Ganga continues southwards to reach Vyas Ghat. Where it meets Nayar River from east. Nayar emerges from western slopes of Dudhatoli in two streams. Both take vastly different paths to meet at Satpuli. Ganga Enters Doon valley at Rishikesh, where it is met by Chandrabhaga, Song and Dehradun-dissecting-Rispana river. At Haridwar, Ganga enters the plains. In the Shivaliks, we have Rajaji National Park here. These cities and towns are in this basin.

So, this was Uttarakhand. Atleast its geographical description, via its mountains and rivers. I'll meet you next time, to the west of Tons, Thankyou.