Transcription
So today's video is all about placing the flip valve in an old toilet system, and I've got some useful points about high and low pressure flip valves and the difference between part 1 and part 2. You about. And for those of you wondering why I'm not replacing the entire ball float valve system with one of the new bottom entry brass check fill valves, that's coming up in the videos. Well, [Applause] and a positive for estar for the avocado green 1970s toilet that features in this video, and secondly for the state of the room that it's in. This is one of the last two rooms upstairs in the cottage that I haven't started renovating yet, and there will be videos on that project at some point in the future.
So in today's, it's okay. We've got a 10-inch (250 millimeter) adjustable wrench. We've got a pair of slip-joint pliers. We've got a half-inch part 2 float valve, which is a high-pressure flake valve. And finally, we've got a new ball float to go on the valve. Details of all today's tools will be in the description at the end of the video.
Okay, so welcome to my ancient 1970s Armitage Shanks toilet with this sonic flush valve, which I've had to repair the diaphragm in a couple of times. But this part 1 bottom entry flow valve has basically failed. I have repaired this with a set of washers previously, but it's gone again. Water's up to the overflow and dripping out beside the house. Now, a lot of you will be thinking, with some good reason, why didn't you simply rip out the entire existing bottom entry flow valve system and replace it with one of the more modern bottom entry brass shank fill valves, of which there are some good examples on for example, Griffix and Toolstation with almost universally good reviews? The reason I didn't do this is because my existing inlet shank is in pretty good nick. I didn't want to fiddle with the seal between the inlet shank itself and the bottom of the system, which I have had some problems with in the past. Bottom line, I decided it would be less hassle simply connecting the new part 2 valve to the existing shank rather than taking out the whole unit. But I got to say, I've got a pretty nasty plastic flow valve, but I've had a lot of problems with in the past in another toilet where the plastic plunger lever failed. Hard to replace it with a bolt, which is now rusting. So it is tempting to replace this with one of these modern fill valves, and I might be doing a video on that at some point in the future.
So I was going to go online and buy another flavor. I found this in my store. I must have bought this a few years ago when I replaced the flow valve in the water tank in the roof. This is a part 2 float valve. Bought it from Screwfix. It is Pegler. They're all much from muchness, but it's good to go with a trusted brand like Pegler. They don't sell these particular valves on Screwfix anymore, but it's this one here. That's be honest with you, when you're looking at some eight quid including VAT to replace one of these, you might as well just replace the whole thing rather than getting a washer kit. And there are quite a few inexpensive flavor valves on for example, Screwfix and Toolstation that have had pretty decent reviews. You just want to make sure the one you buy has a British Standards 1212 part 2 compliance stamp on it, which most the ones I've seen online seem to. But this is not the original water spout. So whilst the flavor of itself is new, this bit isn't because I stupidly dropped the float valve snapping water rounded pipe. So the water outlet pipe you see in today's video is from the old part 2 float valve from the loft water tank. Anyway, it'll do the job.
Now, before we get into the repair itself, just a quick chat about two things: difference between high pressure and low pressure float valves, and also difference between part 1 and part 2 float valves, as this comes up quite a lot in the comment section of my previous video. A lot of people asked me whether they need a high or a low pressure flow valve. Most, if not all, flow valves ease they are supplied high pressure as standard because most tanks or cisterns are fed from the incoming mains water supply, which is high pressure. The only situation where you're likely to have low pressure is for example, if your water, if your toilet system is fed by the water tank in the loft. Second point is a difference between part 1 and part 2 float valves. And part 1 flow valves, a water outlet is on the underside of the float valve, whereas on part 2 float valves, the water outlet is on the top of the float valve. Part 2 float valves are preferred in the industry because it's all about backflow prevention. If part 1 float valve fails, the water level in the cistern or water tank is likely to rise above the float valve water outlet, as you can clearly see it's done here in my system. And if, for whatever reason, there's a failure in the mains water supply pressure, and so there's a negative pressure, that could suck water from the system or the tank into the mains, and that is against water regulations. The second point why part 1 float valves are not recommended is that to alter the height of the water in the system or the water tank, you've baked he got to bend the float on where it's parked. To flip valves, as you'll see in today's video, have a very neat little wing nut or washer on the side of the ball float so that you can raise or lower it on the float arm. So if you've got a pot 1 valve that's failed, you should always try and replace it with a part 2 valve.
The first job is to isolate the water. I put this valve on a few years ago when I was replacing the slide phonic flush because it didn't have one before. It's a really good idea to fit I say two valves on to all of your toilets like this because then it just means it's so much easier to get on with any repairs. Okay, no, the waters off now and so it's on with the repair. Now this is a sign in chiefly valve, meaning these rather nice brass, most of them are plastic now. It's bigoted bag nut and flange. Back nuts are designed to be clamped against the side of your water tank or toilet system. But what I'm hoping to do, although my valve is a bottom inch bit float valve, it's sort of designed in the same way as a side entry valve. So I'm hoping to dispense with the inlet shank entirely and simply screw the body of the new part 2 float valve on to the coupling nut of the existing shank. I hope I can get decent angle without my hands being too much in the shop, but it really wasn't very difficult. Probably do that by hand now. And that's on with the new one. I'm just gonna move that slightly other way so I can tighten it up. What I like about this bass is it the design is actually really clever because it's quite versatile in terms of fitting the floating. Now I don't know at this point exactly what height the float needs to be, but I'm going to just put it in an approximate position. Now my smaller adjustable spanner to do this tight. They're too tight at this point. Now on with the water. Let's see how it performs. [Music] You have to do a better fiddling around with these because if you don't allow enough water, particularly with these old toilets with these sigh phonic flush valves, you don't need even a watering system, don't get proper flush. I really want them to be finishing off pretty close to where it is now. Notice how quiet ease. This is a nice block great for this old toilet because with this old pot 1 valve, used to thrash away for hours, but now all that waters drained in with scarcely a sound, and it's just now featuring out. So that's it. Job done. And I've left myself with about an inch (25 ml) of water below the pipe. Quick check to make sure we're flushing properly. [Applause] Yep, got ourselves a nice full flush.
So that's it for today's video. Bri know you found it useful. Perhaps the most interesting thing for me about replaces a pop 1 with the part 2 flavor valve was just how much quieter the toilet flush was. So it's a welcome upgrade as well as stopping that annoying dripping overflow pipe outside the house. All the tools detailed in today's video will be in the description at the end of the video, which you can access by clicking on the arrow on your smartphone or on the show more button on your PC. Stay tuned next week when I will be featuring more projects in this bedroom. And as I always say, if you're new to my channel, I would add C enough to have you subscribe. You can do that by clicking on the link here. See you soon.