Transcription
Okay, we're going to go over a quick how-to with your peel-and-stick modified enemas. Not the torch down, not the cold out, or the old hot mop. This is the peel-and-stick application. So you have two ways to do it. This is the residential method, not the commercial method. Don't get confused. This is how we do residential.
And we're going to talk about the difference between living space, which is heated, and non-living space, which is not. Needed. In this example, we have a little old flattop, a house built in the 30s, 40s, 50s that had a flattop. It's got a, it's got a porch coming off the back. This is an open porch, not heated. This is heated. So you know heat is rising up to the top here. Here, nothing. It's just cold, cold application.
If you're doing a peel-and-stick application on an open patio that is not heated and it's a 112 pitch or greater, most cities will allow you to use a single course of peel-and-stick mod bit straight to the deck. Now, when I say that, you still need to put perimeter metal on it, and you still need to take asphalt primer. And either the asphalt primer, get an aerosol, you need to spray your perimeter metal and stick your cap sheet to it. That'll keep water from getting underneath it. Wind will not be able to get underneath it. It's the key. The key is the perimeter.
And the key product that you have to use is a primer, an aerosol primer like a Henry's or something similar spray format. If you buy it in the bucket, it'll take 24 hours to dry. You don't have time to do that. So if you're out there outside, you always order a can of primer, spray primer to go with an 81 bit job. You have to use it and perimeter metal. That is a must. So you can get by with a single course here stuck to the deck.
Now, once you get to living space, that's different. You need two layers here. You need a base sheet and a cap sheet. The perimeter metal is sandwiched between the two layers, and you still have to use your Henry's primer or your asphalt primer aerosol to pre-prime all your metal before you put your cap sheet on. That keeps the wind from ever getting up and underneath it. Most guys will take some roof adhesive at the end, and they'll caulk the entire perimeter and tooling it in well to let it all the way around so that we can never get underneath it.
So here is the application of this flat top. I'm calling this flat top 9 feet by 9 feet. A lot of my 9 by 9. The first thing you do is you put down your base sheet. Your base sheet is a thinner version of a full mod bit base, just a little bit thinner. Now you can get a full thickness mod bit for a base sheet, it's more money, it's the same, about the same as granulated, but typically you can get by with with a with a base sheet.
Now, when you start your base sheet, you take your, you take your whole 39-inch roll and you cut it in half. You start with a half roll or a half sheet, and then you, you, there's a four-inch overlap that you use. So with a four-inch overlap, you run your next two courses. So your base sheets on, it's all the way out to the edge. You've got a four-inch overlap. You started with a half sheet, a split roll. Always start with this little ol because you're going to have to have the offset for your seams.
Next thing you do is you put on your perimeter metal. Perimeter metal should be four by four or four by five. You want, you want four inches. Oops, you want four inches to the deck. And your perimeter metal is shaped like this. This is opened up, it's not 90 degrees, it's about a 100, 110, 120 degrees, and it's got a hem on it. This is four inches minimum here, and this could be four or five. If all you can get is galvanized, if you can't get it in the color you want, then go ahead and get galvanized and you have a color, a can of paint to paint the color you want to match the roof. That's what we do. That's how we normally do it.
Now, to put this metal, this metal on the perimeter, which is shown here in blue, you have to use a simplex nail, which has got a metal cap. A simplex nail looks like a plastic cap, but instead of a plastic cap, it's got a metal cap on it. You could get by with a roofing nail if you had to, but you've just got to use more of them. But if you're putting your, if this is your metal, you're putting these simplex, they're usually square about every nine inches. If you use nails, you better, you better use about every three or four inches.
Once you put that perimeter metal down, and it's actually blue down here, then you take your aerosol primer, which here is in brown, and you spray, you spray coat all that top exposed metal. Make sure you're pointing that aerosol in the right direction so you don't get black asphalt all over your paint or your roof. They should be a mask. These guys should take a piece of cardboard, cut a shield, hold the shield up, spray against the shield so they don't make a mess. That's really key. Use a shield.
Once that primer is sprayed, it sets up in minutes. You should never put a peel-and-stick mod bit roof when it's 60 degrees or less. I think the manufacturers are a little different, but most manufacturers want 60 degrees and rising for that to adhere. If you put it on when it's 30 or 40 degrees, it will not stick. It will not roll out and won't lay flat. It will look terrible. It will probably leak and blow off. So this is key, guys. 60 degrees or lower, don't install a peel-and-stick mod bit.
There's better products. So if you have to put a flat top on in the winter, you've got to use TPO or PVC or rubber. Preferably TPO. TPO is 10 feet. Most of your flat tops are less than 10 feet. There's no seams, so just one piece of TPO would do it. That's a different training module for later.
Now, when you, once you've nailed off all your perimeter metal that's been primed, now you put your cap sheet on it. And if you notice, the cap is that green. The cap sheet goes over so it's, you've staggered your seams. Now, 16 to 18 inch stagger on your seam so you're not lining up your seams. And you take a roller. You're supposed to take a steel roller, if they're about this wide with the handle, and you roll those seams out against that prime metal, and it will stick to that primer.
After you put your cap sheet on, you take your solar seal or whatever adhesive that we're using, and you, you go and you caulk the entire perimeter with a caulk and tool it in with your finger so that that caulking is pressed in, and you're done. And that will last. It won't peel off and it, water will not get under it. This is how you have to do a living space mod bit system.