Transcription
We're testing something that probably shouldn't work, but honestly, the results surprise me. This might sound a little weird at first, mixing water-based white paint with cement. Yeah, I didn't expect much either, but once these two come together, the texture, the finish, and even the durability start doing something really interesting.
So, in this video, I'm going to mix them together, test them out on different surfaces, and see if the strange combo is actually useful or just a complete mess. Let's get into it.
For the first mix, I'm going to use just enough white paint to fully blend with the white cement and create a smooth consistency. And to make the mixing process a whole lot easier, instead of stirring everything by hand, I'm going to turn this welding rod into a simple DIY mixing tool. First, I need to remove the outer welding flux coating to expose the solid metal rod inside. The powder layer breaks apart pretty easily, and once it's cleaned off, what's left is a strong steel core that's perfect for turning into a simple mixing tool.
After cleaning it up, now I'm going to bend the rod a little to give it a better shape for mixing. Nothing too complicated. Just enough to help it spin to the mixture more effectively and create a stronger stirring motion once it's attached to the drill. Once connected to a drill, it can blend the white paint and white cement much faster with almost no effort. The mixture becomes smoother, more even, and there are fewer clumps compared to mixing manually.
Before mixing everything together, I'm going to add a little bit of water first. This helps loosen up the cement, making the mixture easier to stir, and allowing the paint and cement to blend together much more smoothly. After mixing it for a bit, I'm going to add about 2 tsp of PVA glue into the mixture. This should help improve the bonding strength and make the final coating a little more durable and flexible once it dries. Now, I'm going to keep mixing everything together until the texture becomes completely smooth and consistent. At this point, you can already see the mixture starting to thicken up and blend much more evenly. To make the finish look even better, you can also customize the color depending on the surface you want to coat. You can mix in a little pigment powder, or even use acrylic paint if you want stronger and more vibrant colors.
For this simple homemade mixing tool, everything blends together surprisingly fast and evenly. It breaks up the cement really well, mixes the paint smoothly into mixture, and creates a much more consistent texture in just a short amount of time.
Now, I'm going to apply this mixture onto a few different surfaces to see how well it actually performs. To make the comparison easier to see, I'm using masking tape to split each surface into two sections. One side will be coated with the mixture, while the other side stays untouched as a reference. That way, we can clearly compare the texture, color, and overall finish once everything dries. I'm going to test on pretty much every common surface I can find, including plastic, wood, concrete, metal, and even cardboard. This should give a much better idea of how well the mixture sticks to different materials, and whether the finish actually holds up across smooth and rough surfaces.
First, I'm going to test it on this brick surface. Right away, you can see the mixture spreading on really smoothly and gripping the surface surprisingly well, even with the rough texture of the brick. The coating sticks easily without sliding around, and it fills in the tiny gaps and pores pretty. Next, let's move on to a metal surface, which is usually a lot harder for mixtures like this to stick to because of how smooth it is. Now, let's see how it performs on plastic. Since plastic surfaces are usually one of the trickiest materials for coatings to bond to. Now I'm going to test it on a concrete floor surface to see how it performs as a protective coating. Since concrete is porous and constantly exposed to dust, moisture, and wear, this kind of mixture could potentially work as a simple surface sealing layer. Once applied, it creates a solid matte coating over the material, helping protect the surface underneath, while also giving it a cleaner and more finished appearance. I'm going to leave this here for a while and let it dry completely so we can see the final result later on.
While that's drying, let's move on to the second mixture using white paint and white cement again. This time, I'm going to use a lot more cement in the mixture to make it thicker and give a stronger concrete-like texture. Then I'll add a little bit of sand as well, which will help create a rougher surface and make the coating feel more solid and durable once it dries. Now I'm going to add a little water to help loosen everything up and make the mixture easy to work with. After that, I'll mix the blend everything thoroughly. Since this version contains more cement and sand, the texture is already noticeably thicker and heavier, almost like a fine concrete paste.
Now I'm going to add some blue acrylic paint into the mixture to give a stronger and more vibrant color. One of the main reasons I'm using white cement instead of regular gray cement is because it's much easier control and customize the final color. White cement works almost like a blank base, so you can mix in different pigments or acrylic paints and get cleaner, brighter, and more accurate colors. With gray cement, the dark base usually affect the final shade, making colors look duller or harder to achieve, especially lighter colors like blue, yellow, or red.
Now that everything is fully mixed together, I'm going to prepare a simple mold using a cardboard tube. This will help hold the mixture in shape while it dries and also make it easier to test how solid and durable the material becomes once it hardens. Then I'm going to seal the bottom with some tape so the mixture doesn't leak out. It's a simple setup, but it works really well for holding everything in place while the material starts to set and harden inside the mold. This file doesn't have a handle, so after using it for a while, it can start to feel really uncomfortable in your hand. The thin metal tang puts a lot of pressure on your palm, especially during longer use, and it can quickly become tiring or even painful to grip properly. Then I'm going to tap the mold a few times to help remove any trapped air pockets inside. This also helps the mixture settle down more evenly around the file, making the final handle denser, stronger, and less likely to have weak spots once it fully dries. I'm going to leave this here now and give enough time to fully dry and harden.
Now, let's go back and check the coated surfaces after everything is fully dried. At this point, the mixture has hardened quite a bit and you can clearly see the difference between the coated side and the original surface. The finish looks much more solid and textured. And on some materials, it almost feels like a thin protective shell formed over the surface.
On the brick surface, the coating bonded really well and created a strong matte finish. Because the brick already has a rough texture, the mixture was able to grip into all the small pores and uneven areas very effectively. After drying, the surface feels much more solid and sealed while still keeping that natural concrete-like texture.
On smoother surfaces like metal and plastic, the coating creates a rough, concrete-like texture once it dries. Instead of feeling slippery and glossy like the original material, the surface now has a slightly gritty matte finish that almost feels like a thin layer of cement attached to it. The texture gives the surface a more industrial and durable look, while also helping hide scratches and imperfections much better.
On wood and cardboard, the mixture sticks especially well because both surfaces can absorb part of the coating. After drying, the finish feels firmly bonded to the material instead of just sitting on top of it. It would end up a more rugged concrete-style texture. While cardboard becomes noticeably stiffer and more solid, almost like it's been reinforced with thin cement shell. The coating actually bonded much better than I expected, even when scraping the surface pretty hard. It doesn't peel off easily or flake away in large pieces. It holds on the material really well, especially on rough and porous surfaces, making the finish feel surprisingly durable and solid once fully cured.
Overall, this actually turns out to be a really solid coating. It bonds well to different materials, creates a durable concrete-like texture, and gives surfaces a more protected and finished appearance. For such a a mixture using common materials. The final result is surprisingly strong, practical, and visually interesting.
Now, the concrete floor surface has fully dried as well. Normally, bare concrete like this tend to absorb moisture very easily. And over time, damp areas can quickly start growing moss, stains, and dark patches like you see here without some kind of protective coating. The surface usually becomes dirty, rough, and harder to clean after being exposed to moisture for long periods. It's more of a deep protective waterproof layer rather than that super glossy water can't touch it type of coating. Even in rainy conditions, it helps prevent moisture from soaking deep into the surface, which can reduce problems like mold, surface damage, cracking.
Next is a file handle mold, and now it has fully dried and hardened as well. At this point, the mixture feels much more solid and compact, and it already looks like a real custom handle instead of just a temporary mold. After removing from the mold, the handle actually turned out really solid. The shape feels comfortable to hold, and the rough concrete-like texture gives a surprisingly good grip in the hand compared to the bare metal tang from before. This is much easier and less painful to use for longer periods. It also feels firmly attached to the file, making the whole tool look a lot more complete and practical.
Overall, the combination of white paint and white cement worked much better than I expected. The mixture spreads easily, bonds well to many different materials, and dries into a strong coating with a unique concrete-like texture. Since white cement can also be colored with pigments or acrylic paint, it give a lot more flexibility for decorative finishes, while still maintaining a durable surface. It's a simple mixture, but has a lot of potential for DIY coatings, surface protection, and even custom tool handles or creative projects.