Transcription
[Music] [Laughter] [Music] Hello. Welcome to the Bus Guide’s Rambling Trip to the Bathtub. Continuing from last time, we will show you Kanazawa Castle, the million-stone castle of Kaga. Last time, we entered from the Ishikawamon Gate, an Important Cultural Property, and saw the buildings restored in 2010. We also saw the Ichibayashikura, a 100-meter-long structure, the Gojūkan Nagaya, Hashizumemon, and Tsuzukizukuru. We also looked at the Tsurumaru Warehouse, another Important Cultural Property like the Ishikawamon Gate, and the stone walls from the era of the founding lord, Maeda Toshiie. We have been guiding you through those things. Kanazawa Castle is still very deep. This time, Namie will guide you. The cameraman is Miu-chan. Pleased to meet you.
Yes, please look at this key. It's like what the Scarecrow says in The Wizard of Oz, isn’t it? It really feels like that, doesn't it? A very unusual, slightly difficult-to-read feel, wouldn't you say? There's something to it, you know. The truth is, this Honmaru, which we're about to see, is actually a jungle. An incredible number of trees are planted; over 500 varieties, which is unusual. But this Honmaru was originally, when Kanazawa University was here, the botanical garden of Kanazawa University's Faculty of Science. So, during the 50 years Kanazawa University was here, an amazing 200 varieties of trees were added; many trees were planted inside and out. So there are many kinds of trees, and they're interesting to look at. Also, there are quite a few wild animals; tanuki, mice, and even wild birds live here. It's a lot! Nowadays, this is called the green heart of Kanazawa. Kanazawa is a very green place, and this part of Kanazawa Castle is considered its center, its green heart. Now, look at the Honmaru ruins; it looks like this. It’s hard to imagine the castle keep standing here, isn't it? Let's walk through the square Honmaru area. It's such a refreshing place; it makes you want to take a deep breath.
Let me introduce this. This is a Sudajii. It's a Sudajii tree, and it's huge. I wonder how old it is. About 300 years old? Or maybe even older? Just one tree feels like a whole forest. It really does feel like spirits dwell here, like Totoro could appear at any moment. The branches spread out like broccoli. It's called a Sudajii. Look at the roots. It looks like Totoro could pop out from there, doesn’t it? Sorry. [Music]
Here, located to the northwest of the Honmaru, is the Jōbu Yagura. We saw the stone walls earlier, and now we’ve climbed up here. The view is great from here, too. This was burned down in the Hōreki fire and was never rebuilt. However, it was a key defensive point for the Honmaru, allowing a view of the surrounding area. This is the yagura. From here, you can see the Hishiyagura, Gojūkan Nagaya, Hashizumemon, Tsuzukizukuru, and Hashizumehonmaru. And look at the subdued shine of the marine tiles. [Music]
The yagura you see in front of you is the Sanjūkan Nagaya, an Important Cultural Property. First, let's look at this from here. Here you can see the Kirikomi-hagi stone walls on both sides. There used to be a gate here called the Tetsumon Gate. This was an important gate used to enter the Honmaru from the Ninomaru. It's named Tetsumon because iron plates were attached to the gate. There used to be a Watariyagura, a massive structure. And now, here is the Sanjūkan Nagaya. This is 46 meters long. This survived the fire; it is an Important Cultural Property. This yagura was also built for defense. Yagura of this shape are called Tamon-yagura. Most yagura were used as warehouses for weapons, but the term Tamon-yagura refers to those built on stone walls and earthen ramparts. There used to be a Tsuzukizukuru to the right of this yagura, to the north, but it was destroyed by fire. That's why the roof shapes on the right and left corners are different. The left side shows the original roof shape, while the right side, the Tsuzukizukuru, was rebuilt after the fire.
We’ve seen the Sanjūkan Nagaya. The other side is completely different, right? This one has a Karahāfu gable and bay windows. Of course, there are Ishi-otoshi (stone-dropping) and gun embrasures on top. This was built for solid defense. Look at the stone walls; here, too, Aka-todomuro and Ao-todomuro stones are used. But notice that the Kirikomi-hagi extends to the front and back. The unusual thing about these stones is that while the surroundings are all neatly leveled, the center is left rough. So, while it looks a bit rough, it is a proper Kirikomi-hagi. The Sanjūkan Nagaya was built in 1858, during the late Edo period. The bridge leading to the Ninomaru and Sanjūkan Nagaya is called the Gokurakubashi. Before Kanazawa Castle was built, there was a Kanazawa-jo. People say many believers crossed this bridge while chanting Nenbutsu. The Gojūkan Nagaya is in front of the Ninomaru. Soldiers used to patrol here. The Ninomaru Goten (palace) is undergoing investigation for restoration. It would be amazing if they restore it! Kanazawa Castle and Kenrokuen would become even more popular.
Everyone, please look at this. Earlier, we saw the Gojūkan Nagaya from the front. From here, you can see the difference in the windows. On the other side, the windows on the first and second floors alternate, but here, they are neatly aligned. The other side has irregularly placed windows, but this side is where the lord's residence was, so the windows are aligned vertically to maintain aesthetics. And the stone walls below. The other side is Uchikomi-hagi, but this side is Kirikomi-hagi. The beautiful Kirikomi-hagi reflects the fact this is where the lord’s residence was. Aka-todomuro and Ao-todomuro stones are also used here. Aka-todomuro absorbs water easily. Ao-todomuro has a fine density and is strong. Ao-todomuro is waterproof, but Aka-todomuro and Kuro-todomuro are water-absorbent. By combining them skillfully, they create a very soft and beautiful color. The restored Hishiyagura, Gojūkan Nagaya, Hashizumemon, and Tsuzukizukuru are open to the public. We went back at a different time; it was closed that morning. The columns here, now that we're inside the Hishiyagura, are also characteristic. The building is diamond-shaped. Notice that the columns are also diamond-shaped. The angles are 80 degrees and 100 degrees. The base is also diamond-shaped; you can see it in the video. If you look closely, you can see they haven't used a single nail. It's a traditional structure; they created it by fitting grooves and dowels together. There are many more columns than in a typical house. It seems to be very earthquake-resistant. Now, look down below. [Music] This is the bay window, the Ishi-otoshi. When enemies attacked, they’d drop stones from here. And here are the gun embrasures. This is the first floor. Now, let's go up to the second floor. This is the restored staircase. It's incredibly steep, isn't it? It's more like a wall than a staircase. This is a replica staircase, and entry is prohibited. Now, let’s go that way. [Music]
The restored staircase is quite steep. From the second floor of the yagura and storehouse, you can see the Ishikawamon Gate. The Ishikawamon Gate is in front, and the Ishikamon Gate is on the other side; this is what families escaping would have seen in the distance. And look at the windows on this side and the windows on that side. Over there is the Ōtemon Gate, the main gate. The area across the street is the Ōtemon Gate. This Hishiyagura was built to watch over both the Ōtemon Gate and the Ishikawamon Gate, and that's why the angle is off; it's diamond-shaped. Building it this way was incredibly difficult. This is quite a feat of carpentry. It's amazing that they restored it. We're inside now. It's long, isn't it? This is the Gojūkan Nagaya. The Ichibayashikura, the Gojūkan Nagaya, and the Hashizume Tsuzukizukuru together are 100 meters long. Amazing! The ceiling is designed to show off its craftsmanship. Please take a look at the ceiling. We saw the Ichibayashikura earlier. Across from the Hashizume Tsuzukizukuru is the Ninomaru Goten; this area was a warehouse. Yagura and kura are storage buildings for weapons. So, originally, this was a weapons warehouse. This is where you could overlook the Hashizume Tsuzukizukuru and the Nagaya. We mentioned that there are no windows in the yagura. The Gojūkan Nagaya overlooks all four directions. You see the dull-shining tiles. The dull-shining tiles are a characteristic of Kanazawa Castle. They are lead tiles, 1.8 mm thick, on top of wooden tiles. This is beautiful and, being lead, lighter than ordinary tiles. It is also said that in wartime, the lead could be melted down for bullets. The lead contains a small amount of tin to increase strength, hardness, and cost-effectiveness. In any case, the dull-shining lead tiles are a symbol of Kanazawa Castle and very beautiful. [Music]
Now we descend to the Gyokuseninmaru Garden. When you think of Kanazawa Castle's gardens, the Kenrokuen Garden outside is very famous, but there was also this Gyokuseninmaru Garden. We will show you the restored garden. This is a garden below the Ninomaru. You can also see it from the rest area on the other side. The stone walls are generously used; they are meticulously crafted. Come down a bit. Let's look at these stone walls. These stone walls are called Shikishi-Tandoku-zumi ishigaki. It's a magnificent stone wall. The Shikishi is the V-shaped stone at the top. See that? That's where water came out, creating a waterfall. The surrounding stones are flat, and this is called Shikishi. To the left of the square stones are large, rectangular stones. This is the Tandoku type of stone wall. By alternating these, they created the impression of a waterfall. Aka-todomuro and Ao-todomuro stones of different colors are combined. It’s wonderful! In the Edo period, water flowed down the V-shaped stone trough, creating a 9-meter waterfall. It’s been filled in now, but excavations revealed a stone-built waterfall basin 2 meters below. [Music] Let's look at the stone walls again from a slightly different spot. [Music] [Applause] [Music] 7 [Music]
And here is the water feature; the water flows from the Shikishi-Tandoku-zumi stone wall above. A multi-tiered waterfall of several meters, though it's a shame there's no water now. The water flowed into the pond. [Music] From Gyokuseninmaru, let's look again at the Gyokuseninmaru Garden. It's amazing, isn't it? From the Shikishi-Tandoku-zumi stone wall we saw earlier, to the pond below, there is a 22-meter difference in elevation. The garden is built utilizing this difference in height. It's wonderful! This was originally the residence of Ehime, daughter of Oda Nobunaga, the wife of the second lord, Maeda Toshinaga. Ehime was called Gyokusenin. After Gyokusenin’s death, the third lord, Toshitsune, started creating a garden here. Until the Meiji Restoration, this remained a private garden. From here, the Sanjūkan Nagaya is slightly elevated; you can see the Sanjūkan Nagaya standing tall as a defensive structure. Various styles of stonework are used at different angles. It's a truly spectacular stone wall. It shows why Kanazawa Castle is called the “Museum of Stone Walls.”
The second lord's wife, Ehime, was Oda Nobunaga's daughter. The third lord's wife was the daughter of the second Tokugawa shogun, Hidetada. The Maeda family continued for 14 generations, with 10 lords marrying into the Tokugawa family. It reveals how the Tokugawa shogunate feared the Kaga Million-Stone Domain, an outside daimyō. [Music]
Across the road from the Gyokuseninmaru Garden is Koyama Shrine, dedicated to the founding lord, Maeda Toshiie. When we talk about the Kaga Million-Stone Domain, we must talk about Maeda Toshiie. Let’s go there! [Music]
We visited Koyama Shrine next to Kanazawa Castle. Koyama Shrine enshrines the founding lord Maeda Toshiie and his wife, Matsu. Behind it is the newspaper office; it doesn’t look particularly shrine-like, but it is an Important Cultural Property. Koyama Shrine, which enshrines Toshiie and Matsu, was moved here from the wing of Kanazawa Castle in 1869. The shrine gate is an Important Cultural Property. It doesn't really look like a shrine, but it's a mix of gongen (Shinto) and miya (temple) styles. And there is a lightning rod; it's said to be the oldest in Japan. Many people are visiting now. We will go and worship at Oyama Jinja. Let's go! [Music] 1n [Music] [Music] me [Music] n
Look! A magnificent statue of Maeda Toshiie appears. It's a depiction of Toshiie in his prime, a young man. He is holding a spear and wearing warrior attire. What about the large pumpkin behind him? It's called a "horo." Let me tell you more about the horo. It’s a protective covering; when going into battle on horseback, they would cover their backs with this to protect themselves from arrows. To make it look like the wind has inflated it, bamboo frames, whalebone, and other materials were used. This shows how Maeda Toshiie dashed around the battlefield in his youth. Because it was red, it was called the "Aka-horo," indicating his bravery. The statue is of him in his brave youth. In the distance, you can see a statue of Toshiie's wife. Both of them are enshrined here. They're so cute! They're enshrined together on lotus leaves; it's lovely! Please look here, this is the main hall of Koyama Shrine. It’s a beautiful style, and the roof has Ichigi and Kagami-gi (tiles). It’s magnificent!
Look at the fence in front of the main hall. It’s unique! It is said that Sugawara Michizane is their ancestor. It's beautifully landscaped. The greenery is stunning. Now, we’ve seen Koyama Shrine. Originally, this was the site of Kanazawa’s Kanayama-maru. The bridge that connected this to the castle is called the Nezumi-tamonbashi, a major bridge within the castle grounds. Over there is the Nezumi-tamon Gate, the only gate in the castle with nankobe (plaster) walls. It was restored in 2020 after 140 years! [Music] From the side, you can see Koyama Shrine. Please look at the restored building. [Music] Like the yagura, the Nezumi-tamon Gate is also open to the public. It was completed in 2020, so it's new and clean. Back inside the castle. Kanazawa Castle: the museum of stone walls. Let's look at the stone walls. The stone walls here are very high. And cherry blossoms are planted in two layers. If you were here during the cherry blossom season, it would be truly spectacular! This area is called the Kanazawa Castle Stone Wall Corridor. This is where you can see the difference between Kirikomi-hagi and Uchikomi-hagi. Cut stones are placed in front, and small stones are packed behind them. So, if it collapses, the small stones would pour out. Then, there’s Uchikomi-hagi. It’s long, isn’t it? The view from the side is completely different from the front. From the side, you can see that it’s made of long stones, with small stones packed behind them. Normally, we only see the surface of stone walls. Seeing it from the side is very educational. This is what is called Uchikomi-hagi. There are various stoneworks. Information about the quarries and stones from different locations is also displayed. There are also remnants of the stone-cutting process. Information about who maintained the walls is also displayed, including examples with engravings.
The stone wall corridor continues. The upper stone walls are amazing, too. Kanazawa Castle is a castle of stone walls. The stone walls continue. Let's go to the higher stone walls. Amazing stone walls! Truly magnificent! The walls curve, and they are layered in steps. It is not a simple, flat wall. Amazing! We have reached the top of the stairs. The stone wall here is very high. This gives you an idea of how high the wall is. The top is the Sunyagura. This is the area we viewed from the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa. From here, you can see the high stone walls. Very tall! [Music]
We have climbed to the top of the restored Sunyagura. From here, the high stone walls behind look even better. This high stone wall was originally 22 meters high. It was the highest stone wall in the castle. However, a section was destroyed during the Meiji period, so it is now a bit lower. Looking down from this Sunyagura, you can see the Imori-bori moat, restored in 2010. Originally, this Imori-bori moat extended far to the southwest of the castle; it was a huge moat with a width of 410 meters and a considerable depth. It was filled with a lot of water. We’re almost at the end of Kanazawa Castle. We are back at Gyokuseninmaru Garden. We will go around the west side of the castle to the north, where the Ōtemon Gate is. The moss is beautiful! The area over there has the most inscriptions. It's called "Ōatari isukiya." The white building was built as the army headquarters in 1898. In the Edo period, this was the residence of the lord’s concubines. To the north, there were the Kitamaru, the Sanmaru, and the Tsuchihashimon Gate. This was a heavy gate; only the stone walls remain. Look closely at the stone walls. This is a Kirikomi-hagi stone wall, but look at this. See these hexagonal stones? These represent tortoises, symbolizing fire prevention.
We will descend from the Tsuchihashimon Gate to the Shinmaru Plaza. The Ōtemon Gate is near! We’ve arrived at the Shinmaru Plaza in front of the Ōtemon Gate. The tips of my fingers are numb! It’s April 1st; this is Kanazawa. The cherry blossoms are beautiful here. These aren’t Someiyoshino; they are Koshiganzakura. Because they arehiganzakura, they bloom earlier than Someiyoshino. They are a deeper pink than Someiyoshino. Beautiful! There are 400 cherry trees in the castle grounds, mostly Someiyoshino. higanzakura are also beautiful. Looking to the left, you can see a wide expanse of lawn. You can even see Mount Ōyama in the distance. The view is great! This area was developed during the reign of the second lord, Toshinaga, making it a new area; it served as the castle's government district. [Music]
The cherry blossoms are beautiful. You see the white wall over there; that's the Kuro-mon Gate. From the time Kanazawa Castle was built until the end of the Edo period, this was the main gate. Maeda Toshiie and his retainers entered from the Otsuka gate and changed it to the present Otsuka gate. We'll go to the Ōtemon Gate. From the Shinmaru Plaza, you can overlook Ishikawamon Gate, Hishiyagura, and the cherry blossom garden from a lower vantage point. The lord’s mansion was here, and it was designed for defense. We’ve arrived at the Ōtemon Gate. This is the entrance; we came here after filming in January. The cherry blossoms at the Ōtemon Gate are magnificent; they are mossy! They are about 70 years old; maybe older. They aren't long-lived cherry trees, but they might live to 80. The branches are gnarled and mossy; the buds are swelling. It will be beautiful when these two cherry trees are in full bloom. Across the tunnel of cherry blossoms, you can see the Hishiyagura and Ishikawamon Gate. A magnificent view! We should take another look at the Ōtemon Gate. Usually, you enter a castle through the main gate, but we entered through the Ishikawamon Gate, an Important Cultural Property, so this is last. In 1583, Maeda Toshiie entered Kanazawa Castle, renamed it, and moved the Ōtemon Gate. Look at the stone walls. The Ōtemon Gate represents the lord's residence. It’s made of large stones. You can see the large stones used. Until now, we saw nicely shaped stones; here, you see many large stones. The first thing you see when you enter through the Ōtemon Gate is the huge stone. This shows the grandeur of the lord. Let's look at the stone walls from the bottom again. It's mirrored on top and bottom. The sides are also made with large stones.
We showed you the Kanazawa Castle of the Kaga Million-Stone Domain. How was it? This was my first time visiting Hokuriku, and it's a castle full of attractions. The "Museum of Stone Walls" is perfectly fitting. The restored buildings were also a big attraction. The Ninomaru Goten is also being considered for restoration. It's exciting! We walked quite a bit today. We’ve been walking upward, but we've covered a lot of ground today. I walked in flat shoes. We covered a lot, but how was it? Did you enjoy it? Please visit Kanazawa Castle yourselves! See you again! Goodbye! We’ll continue our look at Kanazawa next time. When you come to Kanazawa, you should also visit Kenrokuen Garden. Next time, we will show you Kenrokuen, one of Japan’s three great gardens. We’ll also stroll through the samurai district, where the old streets and stone pavements remain. Enjoy a trip to the Edo period. See you next time! [Music] car