Transcription
[Applause]
How to get from this to this.
Hi guys! In today's video, we have Ford vs. the 2012 1.6 Patrol with a leaky, squeaky, and rusty water pump. I'm going to be changing the timing belt kit and water pump, so let's crack on.
We start with the easiest task: wheel removal and belt pulley cover removal. For that, I'm using a Torx T30 socket with an extension and an electric ratchet. Next, I crack the water pump pulley bolts, which are 10 mm, using an extended spanner. I do this now as later it’s going to be harder; if the belt is removed, the pulley is going to start spinning around.
I'm using an 18 mm socket to turn the crankshaft for the belt removal. As this is a stretch belt, there is no tensioner. The tensioner does not tension the belt, so there are multiple tools you can use; I prefer this way.
That's the belt off! Now, I'm going to show you the position where to lock the crank. If we see this small 10 mm bolt, we have to remove it, and then we can use either a special locking tool kit or, in my case, a self-made tool to lock it. I use a 10 mm stepper spanner. Once that's been cracked, these bolts usually come out pretty easily.
Now we can drain the coolant. Now we can move to the top and start by disconnecting the battery, as we are going to remove the alternator as well, and by that, we're going to be touching positive wires, so this is an essential process.
Next, I remove the HD leads. I recommend for beginners to mark which way these go, as if you put them back incorrectly, the car won't start or will run roughly. If you can remove all of them at once, that's good; if not, I recommend marking them.
Next, a little bit of cleaning—I remove this breather hose. Next, I unplug the coil pack. Now the coil pack can come out; it's been held in place by Torx T20 self-tapping bolts—four of them on each corner.
Once that's the coil pack out, we also need to remove this engine hanging bracket. For that, I'm using a 10 mm extended spanner; it's held in place by two 10 mm bolts. Next, I unplug the C-shop sensor; it's pressed like this. Most sensors on this car are like this.
To disconnect the injector harness, I'm using a flat screwdriver to press the locking pins and lift the whole harness up. Basically, I press it like this and put tension of the fingers upward until I feel it lift. I know this injector is disconnected now.
I disconnect the O2 sensor bracket—there's a 10 mm nut there. You can leave it hanging. Now the expansion tank return pipe for the coolant—I've just taken that away. Some of these expansion tanks come out pretty easy; on this car, it gave it a fight. But if you use a little pry from the bottom upwards, it should lift up. You can use a small screwdriver to open the clamping pins on the bottle itself. Most of the time, I leave the expansion tank hanging like this, but later in this video, I will disconnect it completely.
Now we can support the engine underneath with the trolley jack. Once the engine has been secured and you pump it up, you can disconnect these 35 mm bolts for the engine mount. Once these have been disconnected, you can lift the engine slightly upwards to make sure that it is actually secure by the trolley jack.
So here you can clearly see it's not holding anymore on the engine mount. Now the other two bolts are also 15 mm. Sometimes they come out with the stud, sometimes they come out by themselves, so you might need to work whichever way works for you. In my case, one came out with the stud and the other just as a nut, but we have to remove both studs as it is going to help later to remove the timing belt cover.
Now the stud is out; we can pump the engine higher up as much as we can to get more access to the water pump pulley. Now we'll pull it out; we're going to give it a quick wash and put it aside. Here we can see the water pump is completely shot, and none of the pulleys are supposed to move like this.
Next, we move to the alternator, which is held in place by three 15 mm bolts; well, actually two bolts and one nut and one stud. Yeah, here you can see I'm removing the expansion tank completely. I did this because of the camera; I could show you more of what I'm doing. Now the bottle is out of the way completely.
I disconnect the plug for the alternator and the 13 mm nut for the positive wire. I put this now back on the alternator to not get confused with that nut and the harness. Just press and pull.
Now we can remove the 15 mm nut and bolt, so the alternator is hanging by one stud out. Once you remove it, you have to support or hold the alternator yourself so it doesn't fall down and damage some other components. That's the alternator out—one of the easiest alternators I know.
Now we have access to these engine U bracket mounting bolts. Now there's, I believe, like 10 8 mm bolts around this timing belt cover. For the time being, I'm just going to remove the top ones as they screw. This middle one here goes right into the rocker cover, and we're going to need to remove the rocker cover, so they have to go out first. I'm just checking if they're loose enough.
So there's two of these, and there's one right there, which can't be seen on the camera. You'll see how removing it—it’s right there. Now we can see the cover is freely up. There's also a rubber band at the back of the cover that’s been held in place by a 10 mm bolt that also holds the C-shop sensor.
Now removing the rocker cover bolts—they are 8 mm. An electric or air tool is going to speed up the process much more. There are many ways how you can lift it up. Some like to bang the rocker cover with a hammer to get it to move and get air underneath, so I'm using PCK screwdrivers. On some cars, I found this way, and I thought to give it a try, and it actually worked pretty well; I was surprised myself.
That's the cover out of the way; looks pretty clean as most Patrol cars, if they've been kept in good shape. And this is the locking tools I've been using. Both tools are handmade in the garage by the garage owner. So this plate slides in there and locks the camshaft, and the bolt locks underneath where the crankshaft was removed earlier at that 10 mm bolt.
I'm turning the engine to get into the position to lock it, so that will be top dead center on cylinder number one. Here we can see we're going to screw in the locking bolt. It has to go all the way in to lock properly, like so. Now I'm going to turn the engine slightly more forward till it stops completely; that should be it.
Now the plate should go in pretty easy. Yeah, a couple of taps to make sure it doesn't jump out from there carefully by not damaging the surface where the rocker cover gasket sits, so that's not going to go anywhere. Now we can lower the engine slightly down to get access to the crankshaft bolt.
The bolt itself I've never found pretty tight inside, but the pulley itself, 95% of the time, is not going to come out easy, and you're going to have to fight a little bit. In my case, I'm going to be using a pulley puller tool, but I have to put this crankshaft bolt back inside but not completely to keep it loose a bit. This is how the tool looks: the side screw locks onto the pulley threads, and then the center bolt you just tighten, and it's going to press the pulley towards yourself.
It's a tedious process, but I really don't know any other way—at least not the fastest way. This is one of the fastest methods I found so far, and it can take like up to five minutes plus, and you're working on the floor, so it's a little bit tedious.
Once this center bolt presses against and gets really tight, I loosen up a bit; then I loosen the crank bolt. When the crank bolt comes more out, I can then tighten the center tool bolt back inside to pull it more out. I do this a couple of times, maybe three to four times, till the pulley is not completely out, but it's on the edge, like so. Now I'm tightening back in, and once I feel the center bolt is completely out and there's nothing to press against, I can remove the tool now.
Now the crankshaft bolt can come out, and by now I should be able to pull this pulley out completely. It's still a little bit tight—yeah, and there it goes. You have to lock the engine before; otherwise, now the timing belt crankshaft pulley spins freely, so you 100% have to lock the engine before removing the crankshaft belt; otherwise, you can mess up the whole timing.
You can remove now the bottom cover. Yeah, this pulley here basically just spins freely. I put this crankshaft bolt back inside to turn the engine, so yeah, this rubber ribbon has been held in place, and it slides into the plate. It took me time to understand what's happening there, but if you remove that 10 mm bolt for the camshaft sensor, it should come out all in one piece with no hassle.
I noticed that some cars have this rubber, some don't. It slides right here, so if you also struggle to pull it out and it seems like something's holding, that's the rubber band there.
There are two more 15 mm bolts for this mounting bracket; it's one out, and the second one, as we can see, the bracket just comes loose and falls down. Here we can see half of the water pump goes behind the timing belt, so without removing the timing belt, it is impossible to replace this pump. Also, the timing belt tensioner screws into the water pump itself, so there's no way around it. Literally, the tensioner is a 13 mm bolt—there's the tension out, and the belt is also out.
Now we remove the water pump bolts; they are 8 mm. In this occasion, there are six bolts; one underneath is awkward to get to, but it is there. At this point, I recommend putting a bucket underneath or something to catch the coolant, as although we drained the radiator, there's still some left in the cylinder, I mean engine block.
That's the water pump out, and the water pump's gasket—here we can see how bad the water pump was. Actually, the water pump fence was starting to catch the engine block. It didn't make much of the grooves, but still, give it a closer look at this pump. Oh yeah, that's completely gone; it was rattling like hell. Here we can see the shiny parts where the fence was catching the block.
Let's compare the new water pump instructions, and we got a paper gasket—not my favorite ones, but what can you do? Well, at least it seems like we got new 10 mm bolts. If you use a blade like I do, just be careful not to cut the gasket itself. Yeah, paper and new bolts, 10 mm by looks of it.
As we can see here, there's no free play whatsoever in the water pump, and if your water pump has free play, that's a good indication it's time to change it. They look pretty much the same; you can see the pulley is bent. Also, we get a new timing belt and new tensioner.
Let's assemble everything before we can put the new water pump on. I recommend cleaning the surface for any old gasket particles left there and drying as good as you can. I apply a thin layer of silicon just to hold the paper gasket in place. On some of these paper gaskets, it's advised to put the silicon on, some don't, so I just put it on all of them on one side. They have never failed me before and it helps to keep these gaskets in one place.
And that's the new pump in—well, at least with one bolt it holds in. Now we can put all the rest of the bolts in, and the torque setting for this water pump bolt is 25 Nm. That's all of them done.
Here we can see this pulley spins freely, so make sure it's locked before. Now the new tensioner. This center pin has to lock into this slot here on the water pump. Well, I think there's only one way how you can install this correctly; all other ways won’t let you put the bolt inside, so you just finger-tighten it.
Now the new belt can come in. It is recommended to open these cam bolts as well so the top pulley can also spin freely, but it is also stated by the manufacturer that you have to put new bolts as they are stretched. So I decided to keep these ones inside and not to touch them and to put the belt inside this way. It is a little bit harder to put the belts inside this way, but if you're in the same situation as I am, then you can surely use this way; it never failed me before.
So we can see slightly that the top is tight and the bottom parts are both loose. The tensioner is finger-tight, and now we can release it. So the tension is released and the belt is tensioned—that's fine, that's fine, and the top is as well fine.
The torque spec for the water pump is 25 Nm, and now the process is to reassemble everything we did in reverse. From here on, the engine mounting bracket goes in: three 15 mm and two 13 mm bolts. I don't know the spec for this, how strong they should be, so just good and tight.
I will remove this ribbon as it keeps annoying me all the time, just rattling there. There's a 10 mm, as I said before, that goes through the hole there. Now it's also easier to slide this back in, and then it hooks right here. You can secure this cover in place with a couple of bolts.
Well, yeah, it seems like there was no point putting this crankshaft bolt back inside as you can't turn it in anyway. We can put the bottom timing belt cover in; it’s been secured and placed by two 8 mm bolts. I'm using pliers to turn the engine slightly one way, the crankshaft I mean. I'm slightly back and then slightly forward just to make sure it is pressing against this locking pin.
Now the crank pulley and crank bolt—now we remove this locking pin and put the blanking bolt back inside. That's done. Now it's a good time to put the water pump pulley on and finger-tighten all these four bolts. We’ll tighten them later.
Now this locking plate—once that's been done, we can now turn the engine by hand to see if it turns and it doesn't stop somewhere. If it stops, that means the timing is out and the valve is pressing against the piston. Seems like on my occasion, it turns nicely.
Now the rocker cover goes back inside. I locate by fingers all bolts around it just to make sure I don't cross-thread them and wind them all in with some electric tool to speed up the process, but I don't tighten them with this, and there's 10 Nm for these bolts—10 Nm of torque spec for this.
Now that rubber bit back and the 10 mm bolt for the crankshaft sensor on this engine bracket—the O2 sensor bracket with a 10 mm nut, coil pack—those four screws. Now the injector harness; once you align it, just press it in, and you should hear four clicks; then you know it’s been secured.
And the cam sensor, now this breather pipe, goes in. Stealing timing belt cover bolt, now the alternator goes back inside. I screw the stud all the way inside tight—all alternator bolts. Now we connect back the alternator plug and the live wire or positive. These don’t have to be that tight; if you keep tightening them, they will snap.
Cover for the positive terminal. Still for the engine mount, you can see your engine mount itself. I'll first screw in the stud all the way in until the bottom out. I couldn't find my E-socket, so I just used an 8 mm socket.
Now I align these bottom bolts for the engine mount, now tighten them. Now we can remove the trolley jack, and the engine is secured. Now the expansion tank is going to go back inside. I'm just going to remove this hose clamp, tried to do it this way, but it didn't work—we have to move it back.
Now I can connect back the return pipe and this 10 mm nut for the AC pipe. The auxiliary belt can go back inside. Here again, there are multiple ways how you can put these stretch belts back on. In my case, I have a tool for this one, but the tool usually slips or falls on your face, or it takes multiple attempts.
So I found the easiest way for me was to use the cable tie. If you have cutouts in the crankshaft pulley, if not, then you have to use different methods. In my case, there are cutouts and I can use the cable tie. I just hold with the other hand the belt so it doesn't slip from the water pump; just keep pushing it in, and that’s all it takes.
The cable tie can come off. Now I'm just going to keep turning the engine just to make sure the auxiliary belt sits in the place where it's supposed to. I would advise the customer that this belt doesn't look good and needs changing as soon as possible before it snaps.
At this point, it would be good to tighten these water pump pulley bolts. I'll do that a little bit later. Now the cover can go back in with two T30 screws. Now the radiator hose—the wheels go back on, and now we can add new coolant.
Once the expansion tank is full, there’s a bleeder nipple, so you have to open it and wait till all air comes out. Once the coolant starts coming out, you just tighten it back in by fingers; don’t use any tools as it's plastic.
And level it up, coolant. Well, now I tighten these bolts; it would be much easier if I do it from the bottom, but as long as you remember to tighten them, you’ll be fine.
Now the negative terminal, and let's start it up. Yes! This sounds much, much better.
On this, we have come to an end of this video. Thank you if you watched it; more videos on how-to are on their way, so stay tuned. Your valued mechanic out.