Transcription
[Music] [Applause] ladies and gentlemen I'm going to dedicate this to the brain damage that we all can have if we're driving a Ford truck with a cp4 pump on it. The brain damage can be excruciatingly painful. We're talking north of $10,000 when this high pressure pump decides to go bad, and they do go bad.
Got comments why do they go bad? They they think our fuel doesn't have enough lubrication in them. Could be The Fault With That is is you're not going to get fuel anywhere else. You can add additive to it, but I still see them fail.
Um, what we're going to do today for this gentleman, he wants to avoid that $10,000, and I don't blame him. By doing a cp4 pump disaster prevention kit. SNS diesel sells a great kit. What this kit does, this disaster prevention kit from SNS diesel Motorsport, is it's got a return filter to keep any material that's coming back through the return on this pump when it goes bad out of the crank case. Cuz it's low pressure going back to the fuel tank. It filtrates that. It has the a return line on it. When this goes on the cp4 pump, it reroutes the fuel through this plate so that we don't have mixing of the crank case low pressure fuel going to the high pressure. That is preventing any crank case debris from getting to the high pressure side, which would contaminate the injector. This little kid here will save you $10,000. You might still get a cp4 pump failure, but it is not going to wipe out your injector.
But what we're going to do today for you is we're going to show you the step-by-step process of how to replace this thing. Now Kaden, where you at? Kaden, come on over here. Now Kaden, this is your first disaster uh prevention kit on one of these, correct? Yes, it is. Yes. See, you can tell. Look at this face. He's not kidding you. This is his first one. I wanted to show people actually how simple it is to save themselves $10,000. Cuz these kits are not even a tenth of that. Okay. All right. How long is it going to take you to do? Have you looked at the instructions? Four to five hours. You got to pull the whole intake off. Full intake? Yeah. And so what might we do why we got that intake up off of there? Let's talk about that. Check the carbon build up. All a s. Yeah. And we might want to take a b scope look down that EGR cooler and see how plugged up that is. How many miles this truck got on it? 97,000. So he's doing this at the perfect time. Time, man. If you if you're upwards 880, 100,000 miles on on your uh well, cp4s are on Dodges, GMs, and uh Fords. I mean, they're on everything. That cp4 pump's on everything. And a lot of guys will upgrade to a CP3 on the Fords. You can go to a DCR pump, way better pump than the CP3. You can't do it. There's not enough room on the Dodges in the in the Duramax to do that. But let's also take a look at all his carbon build up and see if we can uh cover some good maintenance for him while we got this tored out. Sounds good. Okay, get on it, dude.
Okay, first going to take off the turbo inlet pipe. Next, we're going to take off both charge pipes. [Music] Sh. Next, you're wanting to remove this sensor shield as well as anything that's holding on to the intake. So this dipstick. Then we'll disconnect the EGR pipe. That little shi out of the way. You can get to that top connector. [Music] There's two bolts that hold on the dipstick. With those removed, you can move it out of the way to get the back bolt for that upper intake. Now we want to take off the EGR tube that connects from the EGR to the intake. Those removed, just need to disconnect the temperature sensor right under this Inlet. That disconnected, we can just pull out the tube. It's our first look at what the S accumulation looks like. It's not too bad. You just see a little bit on the walls. With that tube removed, we can look inside of the EGR, just see if it's clogged up or not. This one doesn't look terrible at all. Looks pretty good and free flowing. Just disconnecting this tree to give us a little bit more room to play with with the intake. Now we're going to remove all 11 bolts off of the upper intake.
All right, Tred a couple of ways on this back um passenger side intake bolt, but there's a bracket right here for looks like a fuel sensor possibly. Um, just makes it really hard to get to this bolt. Tried a couple of extensions, but it's just in the way. So I guess we're going to remove that and see if we can get some more room. So once I got that little nut off, I'm able to just pry up just a little bit on that bracket to give us enough room, and now that bottom bolt will come out. [Music] All right, found out I don't have enough room to remove this upper intake. Uh, so I'm going to unbolt the lower intake, try to sneak it out. We're going to remove the lower intake bolts. This PVC tube over here, we've got to disconnect. There's three tabs that you've got to lift up on. So now I'm just loosening up the clamp around the turbo for that lower intake. Just going to wiggle it free. All right, now that's off. Still don't have enough room. Going to take off this throttle body. It's kind of nasty in there. Look at that build up. Going to definitely clean that intake when we get it out. Yeah, we're going to try to move that fuel filter housing and then see if we have enough room. That's what we got to do. Ooh, going to definitely put that in my my wreck. See if the customer wants to uh clean that out. Now look how easy your lower intake comes out.
All right, now the fun begins. You can actually see our uh cp4 down there. See the quantity valve down there. Going to make sure there's no metal contamination already, and then we'll get to install. Very quickly, before I remove it, I'm going to block off the intakes. Now I'm going to blow some compressed air just around the sensors so we're not getting any contaminants whatsoever into that fuel. Sharing is carrying. Here we go. Moment of truth. Nice and clean. It looks good. No metal on it. No sign of the injection pump going out yet.
Okay, we got it all set up. Got this great kit from SNS diesel for their disaster prevention kit. Comes with everything you'll need. Hardware, great setup. I'm going to first start out with the new quantity valve adapter. Comes with a couple of O-rings. We just got to install on the bottom. This will first take place of where the quy valve used to sit, and this will go right up top. Just going to put a light coat of some lubrication on the seals so they slide in a bit easier. Just going to torque down to 60 inch pounds. Okay, we got that quantity valve too put on. We're going to go back together, put on that lower and upper intake, and then we'll go and install the filter. [Music]
Now that we're all back together, we're going to first start with removing a line to add a new fitting. This is only needed if it's a 2020 or a. So this middle line is what we'll be removing and chop it right off of this hard line. All right, I just gently cut against the top with a razor blade, prying that plastic bit away. Now you just slide the new one on and clamp it down. You want it clamped right in between the two grooves. Now we're going to assemble the block. Just add these two fittings that it comes with in the kit. Now we're going to put these rubber isolators on. Okay, now we're going to go back to what we first installed. We're going to install this red connector one right where we put that new [Music] hose. Then going to take this top one, put it right where that third connector was. Now it gave us two new hoses. This is going to tee into our return back to the tank and our feed line. So those are just this connector right here that removed, and now you're going to insert that male line, and you're going to take the second line and just plug it right into the return. All right, now that we got those two lines installed, got our one back to the tank on our left, and then the feed line to our right. And then we're now we're just going to install the house housing with the filter, and they'll be complete. I'm going to hurry and put the date and mileage of the vehicle as this hasn't had its fuel filter changed right this moment. Uh, SNS says to change it with the factory interval, every 22,000 miles or every third oil change. So we're just going to calculate that so the owner can just change it whenever that time comes. K mine's a 2017 or newer, right here. Just going to lift up this little cowl plastic retainer that we're going to take out, and then this is going to be our holding bracket. 2016 and older, right here. There's a little bracket. Once you pop up these two trims, you'll mount it right in there. Put in that spacer down below. Ins our feed line and turn.
This is uh new stuff. What do you think of the kit? I think it was pretty easy to install. Uh-huh. Once you get down to that, I mean, basically a lot of removing of all this stuff, obviously, and then the routing, the hookup, and everything. Pretty factory. Not a lot of like uh didn't fit, you know? You know, sometimes we get kits. Oh man, let me tell you, get kits from some people, and they they tell you it's bolt on, and it wasn't. How about this? What would you rate on this for uh actually following the instructions and working? This is this 10 out of 10? Yeah. Really? Seriously? I I I need an accurate. I mean, no problem at all. Plug and play. Everything. Everything was plug and play. Shoot, there it is, man. From a guy that's only done one of them, that's a pretty good thing. Usually you do that stuff the first time, and you know it's you got to do two or three of them to figure out how to make it easy. That says a lot about the kid. It was well thought out. All right, man. Gu just saved himself a disaster. So let's hear it, man. Oh, wow. Nice. I I'm sure you've looked for leaks and things that are rubbing or anything like that. You're happy with it all? Yeah. When you had the intake off, did you uh did you bore scope the uh? I did the eore. You did? I did. Dude, you you're so good. And what's what was your uh findings on the intake? How'd it look inside there? Intake was a bit grimy right here in the front, so we clean that out. But as as far as EGR cooler, there was no buildup. Cool. Now look, is he still got the original QR codes on that crank case breather? Yeah. Now what's that tell you? It's never been replaced. Yeah. And you got 100, how many thousand on this? Um, 97,000. You know, this is it. What did I just do for you, dude? I just was building you up, and then I just pimp slapped you. The point of that was that sure would have been easy to replace while you're back in there, huh? Yeah. Would really. Yeah. So again, a little tip on your uh your crank case breather filter right there. Those are the QR codes, quality injector codes, uh, for the injector. If you got a crank a breather that still got that tag on there, that that means you still got the original breather, and with 100,000 miles, it ought to be replaced. Anything else? I'm glad you looked at the EGR. You did good, but you could have done better. Okay. All right, man. Thanks a.