Transcription
[Music] All right, so it's another night here on the SVT Focus engine rebuild. And so I, uh, spent many weeks waiting for all these parts to come in, and I have a big old pile of them here. And I'm not gonna go through each one individually, but the point is, there's a lot of good stuff here, and I'm excited to get into it.
[Music] I got my engine block all cleaned up here and painted. I also got the crankshaft cleaned up as well. And so the next thing we're going to start getting onto here is the main studs in this case and the main caps to get the crankshaft in. So I bought this ARP main stud kit. That's the part number. So the reason I went with ARP hardware in most of this engine is because it's a high RPM engine. It spins to like 7200 or something like that RPM. I drive my stuff pretty hard, and there's a fairly good chance that I'll be back in here either rebuilding it again or boosting it or doing some other something. So in the event that that would happen, I wanted to have, um, basically reusable hardware, hardware so that, um, I can kind of buy once, cry once here.
All right, getting into this kit. All ARP kits, head studs, bolts, all of it, it's kind of a lot of the same. But basically, you have the actual, uh, main studs right here. Then it comes with a little bit of assembly lube, washers, and nuts. They always include their own instructions, and those are the instructions you're supposed to use. First thing I'm going to do though is take a measurement off of the stud and figure out what thread it is so that I can go and chase the threads in that engine block.
All right, so I got this M11 by 1.50 tap from work, and that's the thread size that we have here. So I actually ran these, ran this tap all the way down and just to clean out whatever garbage was in the holes. And, you know, there was a little bit, there was, um, I don't know if you can see that on the end there, there was a little bit of like rust and whatever kind of just very fine filings that came out of there. So I got that all cleaned up, and then I filled each one of the holes with brake clean and then blasted it out of there. So those should be acceptably clean. And so now I can go ahead and take these, these studs and put them in here. Um, they have a driver on the top, like a hex driver, but you really should never use need that because they should just go in real nice and clean, nice and easy. And so here they go down, and, uh, basically, you'll hear a nice easy bottom there. There's the bottom. So you just want to, just want to barely tighten against that because really, any, any twisting and any torque that you put on that, it'll make it easier to rip these threads out.
[Music] All right, while the main studs are in here, basically, I, I again, I'm only doing them finger tight. And what helps me is I actually drive them all the way in as hard as I can, basically, make sure they're bottomed. And then I, that's just to let you know kind of where the bottom is. Then I back off a thread or two and then I come into it real soft. And that's how I get these all set up.
All right, so I got my studs in. Next thing is these main caps. I got them all cleaned up in the parts washer, but, um, you can see they're all numbered one through five, one being the front of the motor, five being the back. And then the direction, the arrow points to the front of the motor. So also, I have a set of Mahle main bearings here. There's the part number. These are standard size main bearings. And so they come in a pack, all neat, nicely sorted here. You have your top bearings and your bottom bearings. And I guess they're called uppers and lowers. But if you look on the bottom here, you can see upper and the data manufacturer, standard size. And then on the lowers, you can see lower, standard, data manufacturer, same stuff. So anyway, we got all these in. This goofy one, that's the thrust bearing that controls the forward and aft motion of the, uh, of the crankshaft. That one's really important. That goes in the top. It's an upper, you know, not a lower. And, uh, for whatever reason, I have what appears to be extra, extra uppers here. That's fine. They were kind of two were kind of clamped together, almost like they were in inside each other. So, um, anyway, I'm gonna use what I need, get this thing set up, set up, get the uppers into the block, and then we'll see about getting the lowers into the caps.
All right, so I have an upper here, and you can see it's got the groove in it. Also, you'll notice it's got this hole right here, and that hole is to match up with the actual oiling hole right here. So that's, that's one way to know which way you're putting it in. Also, the tang, there's like a little cutout right here, a little tang that fits right into the, the cutout into the block, and that's just how these go in. So you'll want to make sure there's no burrs or anything goofy on these, on these bearings. And besides that, go ahead and play small.
[Music] Okay, all the main bearings are in the block, and all the main bearings are in the caps here. And so you'll notice, same thing on, like, on the block side, there's a tang here, and it only fits in there one way. So that's good. There is a little score in this, this bearing. I'm not crazy about that, but you can't even catch a fingernail on it, so it's just visual. Now, the next thing I want to do is I am going to Plastigauge check this. I have a video on how to run Plastigauge, but I'm going to do it quick and check my main clearances. So I'm going to put the crank in dry, torque everything down once, and just see where, see where we're at.
[Music] [Applause] So.
[Music] All right, so there's my Plastigauge right there. I'm looking at about, uh, 2000 clearance, maybe just a smidge under, but it's not, not quite one and a half. So somewhere, somewhere in between there. So I think that's good. That's a good clearance here. So I'll be able to assemble this thing and take off.
[Music] So.
[Music] [Music] Okay, so here's one of the, one of the nuts that for the main stud kit. And so ARP sends along this lube, and you'll want to put it on the threads on the inside of this, on the inside of this nut, and then also on the, on the flange, on the mating flange that goes on the top of that washer, because you want that all to be slipping, um, naturally rather than binding up and having that kind of static friction. So make sure that the threads and then the base of this is all lubed up nice. So something like that, you can see the bottom's all lubed up, and so is the, the threads on the inside. Those will get pushed through and it threads on the stud.
All right, so I got these, uh, actual bolts put down with the washers underneath, and make sure they're all nice and lubed up everywhere. And so those are all down just finger tight right now. So, um, we want to tighten these down to 80 foot pounds. That's in the ARP box instructions, and so that's what we're going to do. And what I'm going to do is I'm going to do it in stages. So I'm going to come up to like 40, and then 60, and then 80, or maybe just 1680. We'll just see how it feels. But, um, that's just basically what we're going to do, and we're going to work from the outside here, inside out, kind of in a star typical type of pattern in there.
[Music] All right, so the crank's all tightened down here. Um, you can see all the main caps are in, and then notice the arrows here, the arrows all face forward, and they're numbered one through five all the way going back. So those are all tightened down 80 foot pounds, and so we'll see how this crank spins. So I can spin it with basically, you know, one finger if I, if I have some place to grab onto. So it feels good, feels smooth. Um, now we can move on to the next part.
[Music] You.