Transcription
Have you ever wondered why two wool suits with the same fabric weight can feel so different? One seems more breathable, perfect for summer, while the other is dense, less breathable, and a little bit warmer, ideal for winter.
Many years ago, in early spring, I chose a four-season weight of 280 g. I remember that wool. It was really soft. It had a very lightly brushed feeling. Little did I know at that time it wasn't suitable for spring and summer months in a hot climate like Beijing, where I live. It was actually a worsted flannel.
In this video, we're going to unravel the mystery behind fabric weights and weaves to help you choose the perfect suit for the season and your lifestyle so you don't make the same mistake I did. Fabric weight is just one piece of the puzzle, but normally one of the main indicators that we use to categorize fabrics. And 280 g sounds like a four-season weight. Now, anything under that and it will be better for warmer months, and anything above, you're going to use that for the colder months. However, to truly understand, we need to delve into fabric construction. This includes the fibers, the yarns, the ply, and the weave.
Wool fibers are sheared, sorted, combed, and then spun into yarns. The type of wool fiber also plays a crucial role. Worsted is comprised of long fibers. It's used for spinning a yarn that is used to weave plain weaves and twills. It offers a smoother and crisper hand and drape. Woolen consists of shorter fibers. Now, these are commonly used to make flannels and tweeds, and they provide a softer, more airy, spongy feel to the fabric. In a side-by-side gram-for-gram comparison of worsted and woolen yarns, worsted yarn is more durable, but woolen has more insulating properties. Now, we'll get to this stuff a little bit deeper later.
Let's explore some common weaves. Plain weave is a simple one-over-one-under weaving pattern using worsted yarns. It's lightweight and breathable, making it suitable for warmer climates. Plain weave will be the most stable and stiffest of the three structures because the warp and the weft have the most contact with each other. Fabrics you might know that use this weave are hopsack, high twist, and tropical wools. A plain weave will be more delicate if it's made in a one-ply, but with two or more ply, this can be one of the sturdiest and the strongest fabrics for suiting.
Woolen weave has a distinct diagonal pattern which is created by the weft going over two warps and under two warps all the way across. This is labeled as a 2x2 weave. Now, in the next line, the pattern shifts over one warp, and this continues with every line. The shift is what creates your diagonal pattern. There is a lot of variation in the technical aspects of this weave. The weft can go over and under more warp. The warp could also be one ply while the weft could be two ply or different variations. Twill is commonly used in suiting fabrics and offers a good balance between breathability and resilience. It will also have a bit more of a flow in the drape in lighter weights of 280 g or below, but more rigid in heavier weights of 350 g and above. If you guys are wearing jeans right now, take a close look and see that diagonal pattern. That's twill weave.
I recently had a discussion with a gentleman from Italy who has over 40 years of experience in designing fabrics in the heart of Biella, Italy. And we had a very long discussion about all of this. I really hope someday we can take that conversation to you guys because I went on a super geeky deep dive about this with him. And I really found it fascinating, and it's actually very, very complex. I'm just trying to share with you guys a little bit of what I took away from that conversation.
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There are two ways of making flannel. One is by using a worsted wool, weaving the fabric, and then brushing the surface of the fabric to give it a flannel-like feel. I find this a little bit of an awkward weight for a flannel. Most suit enthusiasts, like myself, will have a higher appreciation for flannels made from woolen fibers. These usually come in weights of 340 g or above. And when comparing it side-by-side to its brushed cousin, this one just feels sturdier, more spongy, and soft, yet has a very nice density to it. You can tell it will make a solid draping suit that will offer warmth and durability. So, I mentioned before, worsted fibers are stronger than these woolen ones, but in my experience, woolen flannels at a weight of 340 g or above will be extremely durable, and the short woolen staples are no longer an issue.
Choosing the right fabric involves considering your climate and your lifestyle. If you're living in a warm climate, I'd opt for a lightweight fabric like a plain weave or high twist or tropical wool. Now, if you really want a heavy-duty workhorse of a suit, go with a four-ply high twist. But do note this will usually end up being heavier in weight since the more ply you have in those yarns, the more wool you're going to need to weave that. In my opinion, four-ply on a high twist of around 400 grams is kind of overkill. And that added weight for the more ply cancels out that lightness or breathability I'm after in this fabric for the warmer months. But there are four-ply in lighter weights. So you could consider them. Now, last note, don't think of four or six-ply in a high twist that 400 g will be good for cooler weather. Think of the weave like a screen. Air will pass right through. Remember that Italian gentleman I talked about? He actually told me he made a six-ply high twist and he made the mistake of taking that on his business trip once to Sweden in the winter.
Now, for cooler months, heavier fabrics such as flannels or twills will keep you warmer. A brushed flannel of 280 g will be warmer than a twill or a plain weave of 280 g, but I appreciate a flannel around 340 g or above. This weight will be more dense and sturdy than a lighter flannel, and I tend to like to lean into the seasonal fabrics. I've noticed that flannels have a tendency to peel as well. And this happens in the crotch due to walking around and friction of the fabric rubbing between your legs. Now, there's a few ways to avoid this. And the first is make sure your trousers aren't too tight in the crotch, because if it is the least bit tight, this will cause more unwanted friction and added stress to the fabric, and they're going to wear out quicker. If you're curious about trouser fit, I made a video all about it. Check that out here.
Twill is also a great option, and suitable weights for cooler temperatures would be around 380 g or above. Cavalry twills or coverts around 400 g are also a great option for winter trousers or suits and will be warm. They're going to be hard-wearing and have that fantastic drape. Sometimes fabrics or suits won't list out the ply or the weave. But note that to achieve a twill fabric of 380 g or above, it's likely that two or more ply was needed to weave the fabric because the more ply you have, the more yarn you need, which will result in a heavier weight.
Some versatile options that are all-season or four-season would be mid-weight twills around 280 g or a plain weave wool in ply around 300 g. They can adapt to varying temperatures and are suitable for multiple seasons. Now, I find that twills around this weight are a bit more flowing or soft while having a put-together professional look, and clean weaves around 300 g will have a little bit of a cleaner drape, resulting in an even more formal, crisper drape and appearance. If comparing the two weights and weaves, I personally like the performance of a 300 g plain weave. It will be more crease-resistant and have a sharper drape. The plain weave at this weight also does a good job of regulating body heat, um, either insulating when you need it or being a little bit more breathable when you're warm.
Understanding fabric weights and weaves empowers you to select a suit that not only complements your body type but also aligns with your environment and daily activities. Next time you're in the market for a suit, consider these factors to ensure you make a choice that's both comfortable and stylish. If you'd like to discuss more, please leave a comment below. And if you like this video, please hit that like and subscribe so we can get this video in front of more people. If you're in the market for a suit as well, uh, or even a jacket or trousers and want to work on something together, please feel free to reach out. I'll leave a link down below. Thanks for watching.