Transcription
Welcome to The Honest Channel! I'm Clare Johnston, a journalist on a mission to understand how to age well, look, and feel good for longer. Today, we're continuing my discussion with Dr. Thomas Hitchcock, a skin microbiome expert. Last week, he shared some of the more recent discoveries about the microbe makeup of our skin and why it's in our best interest to protect it. If you didn't catch last week's episode, I'll link to it below, where you can also read Dr. Hitchcock's impressive biography. He has completed studies and research in genetics, tissue engineering, and regenerative medicine at universities including Clemson, Duke, and Yale, as well as Weill Cornell Medical College. You'll also find a link to the book he co-authored called "Rebooting the Biome" and his YouTube series "Beauty and the Bacteria."
Dr. Hitchcock helped create a pioneering new microbe-based skincare range. Today, we will hear about how supporting our skin's natural microbiome can enable it to produce its own skincare actives that improve the look and health of our skin. In other words, we are about to gain insight into what the future of skincare might hold. We will pick up where we left off last week, discussing how we can lower the pH balance of our skin. Lowering the pH can help control and balance the normal structure and function of the skin’s microbiome.
How do we lower the pH of the skin? The number one thing that is often hard for me to say without drawing a reaction is that sometimes doing less is actually more. This has been my mantra over the last year, simply because I have noticed that doing too much can age my skin. I have some controversial thoughts on retinoids that I won't delve into today, but it’s something we've discussed on my channel. A doctor who shared her observations about retinoids on my platform received backlash, which doesn't surprise me. There’s a huge industry dedicated to selling and promoting retinoids, and you have to consider that physicians and companies profit from these products. Thus, there’s a resistance to questioning their use because they don’t want to appear deceptive or undermine their business.
Maya Angelou once said, "Do the best with what you know; when you know better, do better." Many people get caught up in contradictions, viewing those with differing opinions as enemies rather than recognizing that science is constantly evolving. Historically, medicine has gone through significant changes—take bloodletting as an example, a practice that persisted for 400 years despite being fundamentally flawed. People often resisted new ideas because they seemed counterintuitive, much like the reactions towards retinoids today.
Interestingly, let me share an anecdote about glutathione. Many individuals are turning to IV injections of glutathione, a potent antioxidant. However, most people don't realize that too much of an antioxidant can lead to reductive damage, which is just as harmful as oxidative damage. Marketing can exaggerate these trends. For example, companies often promote products showing increasingly high numbers of CFUs (colony-forming units) for probiotics, implying that more is better. But oversaturating the body with potent antioxidants can harm rather than help.
Instead, we should consider precursors to antioxidants, such as N-acetylcysteine, which can support the body’s own production of glutathione. When we give the body what it needs to regulate its production, we allow it to function optimally. The current trend of labeling products with the highest levels of every ingredient often overlooks the fact that the body naturally produces certain substances in very small amounts for a reason.
Regarding retinoids, recent data suggests that some microbes play a significant role in activating retinoid receptors in our skin. This aligns with my belief that curating the microbes on our skin can be more beneficial than any skincare product on the market. The subtitle of my book emphasizes how properly caring for your skin biome can enhance your health and beauty more effectively than any conventional skincare ingredient. Microbes on our skin can mirror the benefits we expect from skincare regimens.
However, when we apply topicals, we alter the biotic environment of our skin. For instance, using excessive chemicals, preservatives, or occlusive products can disrupt the skin’s microbiome, leading to dysbiosis. This imbalance can cause issues like atopic dermatitis and acne. Just as the eradication of wolves in Yellowstone National Park destabilized the ecosystem, removing all C.acnes bacteria results in the overgrowth of other harmful microbes. Therefore, instead of eliminating bacteria, we need to balance them.
In the past, we thought certain bacteria were problematic when in reality, they help maintain balance on our skin. In the early 1900s, wolves were eradicated to protect livestock, but this led to an overpopulation of elk, which destroyed the ecosystem. By reintroducing wolves in the 1990s, the balance was restored to Yellowstone National Park. We can apply this analogy to our approach to the skin microbiome—sometimes, we should let our biology function naturally.
Of course, there are circumstances where additional intervention is required. For example, using sunscreen is essential when exposed to solar radiation. Interestingly, our skin naturally produces its own UV protection, which we may wash away with aggressive cleansing. As someone in my 50s, I often wonder if my skin would be better off had I not used skincare products. While retinoids do help to smooth out fine lines, I believe a balance must be struck. I no longer rely on daily high-strength retinoids; instead, I’ve reduced my usage to a lower strength two times a week.
The key is to listen to your body. Your skin will respond, and it’s an effective way to monitor what helps or hurts your overall skin health. The challenge arises when we use multi-step systems, which complicate our understanding of what affects our skin. For instance, if someone follows a detox diet, they wouldn't add a single new health food without eliminating all the current foods first; they start from scratch. When adopting a new skincare routine, we should apply the same logic.
Not all skincare products are created equal, and while there are fantastic companies with excellent formulations, there are also a plethora of inferior ones. A product’s formula and the chemistry behind it matter significantly; even a slight increase in the concentration of preservatives can cause dysbiosis. Unfortunately, the average consumer doesn't have access to information about these formulations. I am fortunate to have a research and development team that allows me to create customized skincare formulas.
As part of the Biojuve brand, we embrace a different perspective on topical formulations. While most companies strive to exclude bacteria, we focus on including beneficial microorganisms in stable forms that can remain effective in the product. Our proprietary Xycrobe technology allows us to maintain these beneficial microbes. By providing your skin with a curated selection of good strains, like we would for gut probiotics, the right environment and nutritional support are essential for these microbes to take effect.
At night, my regimen is simple—I only use the Xycrobes. It comes in a two-bottle system: an oil-based gel with dormant Xycrobe crystals and an activating mist. Importantly, a little goes a long way; one pump contains hundreds of millions of beneficial microbes. When applied, the mist activates and nourishes the microbes.
If we can establish a healthy skin microbiome, we may effectively mitigate signs of aging. Our clinical studies demonstrate significant improvements in pigmentation, wrinkles, and skin laxity through this approach. I'll share links to these studies for further reading.
I noticed that you're involved with a microneedling tool. Microneedling can feel invasive, and it's intriguing how it impacts the skin microbiome. We published a study in December that combined microneedling with our Skin Pen device. Among acne-prone individuals, we found that those using our skin biome care products had significantly better results than those using generic moisturizers. A healthy skin biome enhances the skin's ability to respond positively to treatments, as it reduces chronic inflammation and encourages effective remodeling.
Thank you so much for this enlightening discussion about the microbiome. Many viewers will certainly have questions, and I hope you'll return to answer them in the future. I encourage people to think critically about the topics we're discussing, even though it may seem overwhelming. We must interpret previous data through the lens of current understanding.
It's important to highlight that while we have much to learn about the skin microbiome, we also know that excessive interference can disrupt our skin's health, ultimately affecting our overall well-being. Our skin serves as a protective barrier, and we should acknowledge that even the best products cannot fully replicate the benefits of healthy skin. The general advice remains: simplify your skincare routine.
This doesn’t mean discarding beloved products like vitamin C or retinoids; rather, we can adopt a gentler approach by using simple methods such as cleansing with water in the morning or using micellar water. Reducing the number of skincare products and ingredients can particularly minimize the use of preservatives that may disrupt our microbiome.
At night, use a gentle, soap-free cleanser or balm to remove makeup. Dr. Hitchcock recommends using a microfiber cloth as an effective and gentle makeup remover. Sun protection should remain a priority as well. I will link to relevant studies from today's discussion, more about Dr. Hitchcock, and his Biojuve range, which is available through physicians in clinics across the U.S. and beyond.
I would love to know your thoughts about the skin microbiome and if it’s something you’re considering in your skincare routine. Please share any questions in the comments below. I'm thrilled to announce that Dr. Hitchcock has agreed to return to the channel soon to address them.
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