Transcription
In this video, I'm going to show you how to install laminate flooring step by step for beginners throughout a whole house. And if you're new to this channel, my name's Josh's all about DIY to save a ton of money. So, be sure to subscribe, ring that bell so you get notification every time we release a new video and hammer that like button for me. It's all I ask return for making this video. So, we got a lot to go over today. So, let's get started.
Here's the laminate flooring that we'll be installing in this video. The great thing about this laminate flooring is it comes with the padding attached to the bottom. So you don't have to worry about placing it on the floor first. And this is by Stain Master. This can be found at Lowe's and I'll put a link to it in the description below if you want to check it out for yourself. And this stuff is a 12 mm thickness and it's also considered waterproof according to the packaging here. And it contains 23.69 square ft per package. So you can calculate your room's material by doing the length times width. add 10% and then that's going to give you how much square feet you need and then you can buy however many boxes it takes to get that square footage.
So you already calculated your floor you're getting it delivered. Now what's the next step? The next step is going to be lay your flooring into the rooms that they're going to be installed and let them sit there for at least 48 hours. It allows the flooring to acclimate to the room's temperature and moisture content. So that way when you install it, it's not going to move as much. Let's say it came from a 50° truck and then it gets installed immediately. Well, it's going to expand once it starts warming up. So always let your flooring acclimate.
Second thing, make sure you prep your floor. Clean it really well. Fill in any depressions in the floor with leveling compound or sand off any humps or bumps that's on the floor. You're going to be thankful later down the road for that. Then the next thing we need to do is pull from multiple packs of flooring as we install it. That way it blends the shades from different colors along with your basic carpentry tools. You're also going to need a tapping block, a pull bar, and spacers. And this came as a kit, and I'll put a link to it in description below. But this is everything you'll need to install laminate flooring as far as any specialized tools. And another thing you're going to want to purchase is a rubber mallet. This is going to be helpful whenever you're placing your laminate flooring together. So, you definitely need to purchase these things before installing your laminate flooring.
I'm out here in the garage. I have my miter saw set up to do the cross cutting and I also have my circular saw to do the ripping and my oscillating tools here as well. So, that way I can cut out for floor vents and whatnot. This is where I like to do most of my cutting when I'm installing floor. That way, most of the dust is out here in the atmosphere instead of where I'm working, and it keeps the work environment cleaner.
I first have to prepare the first piece of flooring by removing these sections that are on the back of the flooring where the padding is not exposed. This area is also not supported. So, we must remove this first before installing it for our first row only. So, I'm going to use the miter saw to cut this off and then use a circular saw to cut this lip off. The overhang on the short side on the first piece of flooring is the only piece that needs the short side removed. Using a circular saw, I'm going to use it to rip this edge off of the flooring. If you have the ability to get your hands on a table saw in order to rip down the pieces of flooring for your starters, you definitely should. It's really going to save a lot of time and it's also going to be helpful for the finishing up process too later on this video. So, this will definitely speed things up, but the circular saw is fine, but this is definitely what I prefer. I am outside making this cut, but it is recommended that you wear a dust mask when cutting the laminate flooring. Yeah, that's much quicker. You can see that the first piece is now square on the edge that's going to butt against the wall. And that's what we need to do to begin the flooring.
Our first piece is to start at the left side of the room and work towards the right. And this is going to be something much easier to do if you have knee pads on. So, I highly recommend purchasing a set of knee pads. You will be thankful in the long run. And also, we have a few shims here to start out with. And I'm going to show you how to set this first one into place and how to mark out for this vent because we need a cutout for that as we go as well.
When starting your first row, your drywall is either going to be up high enough to where the flooring can slide up under it, or it's going to be down low enough to where you can butt up against it. It's actually easier to start off of if the floor is able to butt up against the drywall because we can shim our 3/8 right off the drywall that way. But in this case, as you can see, because our floor is going to slide under it, which will give you a better finish lookwise, but it's going to be harder to space off of because our shims won't fit in there, right? So, what I found best to do here is just place our shim like so, and then just put it on an angle and butt up to it like that. That's going to give us our 3/8 inch gap. So, I'm going to do that at both sides here. I'm then going to take one and place that at the very end. Here we can shim off the drywall because our drywall is cleared down to the subfloor.
To mark this floor vent that needs cut out, I need to mark the edges. I'm going to begin by marking this very edge here. And I know this is a 10x4 vent. I'm going to come over 10 in just to make sure we are cutting it at the right width. And take note that sometimes this duck work is not perfectly square or the perfect size. So always double check the actual measurement that you need here. And I know that this duct is for a 4x10 vent. So because of that, I know I need to allow this much here whenever we cut this out is another 5/8. So whenever we mark our distance back here, we need to remember that 5/8 is still coming up out of here.
I'm now going to take this out to the garage to cut it. This is one edge of the vent. Here is the other. I'm going to use a speed square and just make a square mark off that mark that we made while it was on the floor at both areas. I'm now going to allow the 5/8 that we measured that's going to be left onto this side to be cut out. I'm going to mark right at 4 in. Do the same over here. I'm going to use that to scribe a line. I'm now going to cut that out for the floor vent. I'm just going to use the circular saw to cut down each line and then oscillating tool to finish out the corners. To cut this out, a plunge cut. Or you could run your oscillating tool down the whole line, but it's going to be quicker to plunge cut. To finish out these corners, I'm just going to use the oscillating tool. And that's all there is to cutting out for the vent. I'm going to place this back where it was sitting. And again, we want 3/8 off the wall around all edges of the flooring. As you can see, the floor vent is cut out really nice.
We're now going to continue running to the right side of the room. Notice the seam where the two subfloor rows come together. I can use that as a reference from this wall to make sure we are running square with the wall as we run our rows. I got 36 1/2 in off the tongue. And I checked this before we started. If I didn't have this seam to go off of, I could also just measure up 4 foot off each side of the room and chalk a line on the floor and use that as a reference line to go off of. So, as we're running our rows, we can make sure that they're running square with the wall. It's a good little tip.
While pulling from a few open boxes, I'm going to take pieces and butt them tight to each other to get our total length. So, we can actually precut all of our starters. And that includes ripping off this back section. So, that way we don't have to run back and forth so many times. So, I'm just going to take this and butt it tight to this one. and then continue the run until we get to the wall so we can cut it. You could also take a measurement of the rest of the length of the row that you need. Then divide it by the length of the laminate flooring, which is a little over 50 in, to let you know how many full pieces you need to rip down to start your first row. Just so I'm very clear here, you only rip the long side off, not the short side for all the rest of them for your first row. The very first one, we had to rip this off as well because it was up against the wall. Just want to make sure that was very clear.
In order to connect these together, it's very simple. I'm going to lift up the side that needs clipped into the one that's already existing on the floor. And then we're going to place pressure towards the one that's already on the floor. Then we're just going to lay it down. And it's going to hook together like so. And you can see here that it is not lined up together, which we want to make sure they are. We're going to use the tapping tool. And then we're going to lay it right against this edge. And then we're just going to tap it until it's flush. Okay. And that feels really good. And now again, if this seems like it's separated a little bit, we can take our tapping tool from the other side of the flooring to tap that a little tighter. If you do have to make the joint a little tighter, you could come from this end, tap it a couple times, and that'll tighten that joint right up. That looks really good there for our joint.
Using more spacers, we're going to make sure that we are spaced appropriately from the wall. And it doesn't hurt to check with your tape measure to make sure you're running about the same off the wall if your wall is straight. I then rinsed and repeat that process until I get to the next one that needs cut. Something I like to do is put spacers close to the butt joint. That way, it helps keep that butt joint flush with each other at the front. So, whenever you do your next row, you're going to have less issues that way.
With the first few pieces down, I'm going to double check to make sure I'm running parallel with the wall. Going to take a measurement here. And I got 36 1/2 in just like my starter. So, I know I'm running parallel, which is very important. And then our distance off the wall is still about 7 in. So, that's looking really good. And if you're wondering about how much coverage we get with each plank, each plank has a length of 50 and 5/8 inch. And the width is 7 and 1/2. So, the exposure of 7 and 1/2 will give you a lot of coverage per run. That's something I really like about this stain master flooring.
This next piece has a vent in it. We need to cut that out. I'm just going to butt this right up to this piece. And now we have a place to go right off of to mark for our vent. Again, I'm going to mark right on the edge and then measure off 10 in to make sure we are going to be placed correctly. And that looks good. And now we can use our same measurement that we used on our first one because this wall has the same measurements for the vent like the first vent. So, that's going to be helpful. I can use my speed square and mark that exactly what the last one was with the distance off and then make a square line. Then do it here as well. I can then just scribe my line.
And we also have this door jam we need to cut around. I'm going to measure off the pre-existing piece on the floor and then take off 3/8. That puts me at 38 and a quarter. We're going to place that mark on the board. I'm going to measure the thickness here. And that's what we're going to have to take off so that we don't have this part hitting the door. That's 6 and 5/8. I'm now going to scribe that line. This needs cut out. And this needs cut out. All right, we're going to snap this into place and see what we got. So far, it's looking good. Now, I'm going to tap it back. And something you're going to notice, it's going to be a fight to keep this where it needs to be as you're tapping it. You just got to readjust the road that's already there. Just the nature of the beast. Everything looks good here. Here we got to place our spacers and continue the run.
For the last piece of the run, I just got to get a total length and subtract 3/8 of an inch. And then we just got to cut it. Then cut around this door. And it's as simple as that. And this is the final piece in this row.
Now that we are finished the first row, this is a scrap that was cut off in order to finish up this row. And this is going to be our starter for the second row. And a very important note here, if this scrap is shorter than 12 in, it cannot be used. It has to be at least 12 in. If I take a measurement, we got 12 and 3/4 in. So, this is perfect for a starter. And we want to make sure that it isn't too long to where we are within 12 inches from the joint. So let's say this piece was 45 inches. We'd only be about five inches away from the joint. That's too close. We'd have to cut it down. So that'd be shorter. So we are going to use this as our starter for the second row.
To install the first piece of the second row, it's just like we did with the first piece of the first row. We just got to space 3/8 inch off the wall using a spacer. and then just click it right into place. After snapping the second row into the first row, I take the tapping block and rubber mallet and tap it into the first row to seal up the joint. And we definitely have to cut around our vents to finish up this edge.
To mark for the rest of this vent, I'm just going to lightly lay it into place and not click it down all the way. And then I'm going to mark the vents edge. And then we're going to pull that right back up. And I'm just going to get my total distance here. If we measure, I got about three and a half. So, we need to just take a half inch out of this in order to complete for our cut. And most floor vents, you can get away with a little bit bigger. Let's say 4 and 1/8 by 10 and 1/8 because there's a flange that goes around the vent cover. And I'll show you that here in a minute. I'm going to cut this out.
We now have the tongue here and the tongue here. we got to clip into. I find it best to clip it into the long side first. So, we're just going to place this together like we typically would. I'm going to tap in towards the first row. Now that we're snapped into this row, we need to tap it into this piece. So, we're going to go to this very end here. Going to take my tapping tool, place it right against this, and drive it towards that joint. And it has closed this joint up all the way. That's how you install the rest of the pieces in this row. So, you can see what the floor vent's going to look like when it's finished. If you set that into place, that gives us a nice finished look. And now we can control the airflow up out of the vent.
To finish the rest of the second row and the remaining of the rows in this room. We literally rinse and repeat those same principles until we get up to the area where we intersect another room. And I'm going to show you what to do once we get to that point. Because I installed this over a subfloor that is dry, I did not need a vapor barrier. Now, if I was installing this over concrete, I would install a six mil vapor barrier first before installing this flooring.
For this last piece, we'll have to use the pull bar to close up this joint. So, I'm going to show you how to do that. So, we're going to go ahead and snap it into place here. And now, we're going to use the pull bar. And this is going to lace back into this gap. We're going to take our regular hammer cuz it will tap better with a regular hammer versus the rubber mallet. I'm going to hold this end down. We're going to tap it to close up that gap. And you can see that closed up the gap really nice. And that last piece looks good. We need to make sure we put our spacers in here.
If you have ever installed tile or hardwood floor, you will be amazed on how much quicker laminate flooring is compared to those products. Here's a word of advice. Whenever you get your first three rows done, check your reference line and make sure that you're running the same and that you're still parallel with your wall. And readjust your shims if you have to to make sure you're running correctly. because these first three rows move a lot while you're installing the flooring. And also, we're going to keep running this room. And if you have a helper, it's really good to have him hand you the pieces and cut them as you install them or vice versa. Two men will make this job go three times faster or two women. Just a good little tip. If you are enjoying this type of content, you may enjoy my free PDF. I'll put a link to it in description below.
A quick way to mark the end to cut. Flip the tongue around to where tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Then mark for your 3/8 spacing and that's going to be where we cut. [Music]
We're up as far as we can go before we have to start this room. In order to start this room to line up with this room really well, it's a very simple process. I'm just going to take a full piece and I'm going to clip it in. And I'm not going to keep this as a final install, but we're just going to tap this into place for now and then do one at the other end of the run. I'm here at the very end of the run. We're just going to snap this in. I'm then going to mark the very edge here and then pull that back up. And this stuff unsnaps really easy if you have to, by the way. And then I'm going to take a nail and nail it right onto that mark. I'm now going to use my chalk line, hook to that nail, and I'm going to run it by that first piece that we installed at the other end of the run and continue it into the following room. I'm going to continue running the chalk line into this room. And we need to make sure that we go right by the tongue of the first piece we put down. And we're going to strike our line. As you can see, that gives us a great reference line to go off of to start our first row. I can now take up the first piece we put down.
I now need to calculate how far to measure off this red line to start our first row. If we count the number of rows here, we got 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12. So, if we have 12 rows, we need to measure back 12 times the exposure. So, it would be 7.5 * 12, which gives us 90 off this red line to our first row. Here is the red line coming into the room. I'm going to hold on that red line and measure back 90 in. I'm going to make a mark right at 90 in on the floor. Okay, we do the same on this side of the room. Mark 90. I now need a chalk line from mark to mark. And that's going to be the chalk line we go off of to start our first row. Here is the chalk line to start with. What I recommend you do is measure off the wall here and we got about 7 in. And then we need to measure off down here as well. Just make sure we're still running fairly square with this room. And we are. So that's going to be great. You can manipulate this some if it's way off for your starter row.
I'm now going to start this room just like I did the first room, except I'm going to line up the tongue against that red line so that we know we're going to run true to the other room so we can intersect. [Music]
I'm now at the point where I need to transition from this room into this room with one seamless row joining the two. Make sure the piece that you start off of on this row that joins these two rooms together that the brakes do not break to where you're too close to a joint out here. So, if you're running this room to where the joint looks good, you may jump over into this room and realize, oops, I'm too close to the joint once I enter into this room because these do not come in various sizes. They're all 50 and 5/8 inch long roughly. So, because of that, you definitely need to make sure when you start out at the back here. It's a measurement that works for this room and this room to make sure this all comes out right. I got a full piece here that I'm going to just touch right where it's going to be installed. And I know this piece I cut down 23 in. And reason why that is once it is installed into place, it's going to break out evenly for the next row. So, that's an important concept to note whenever you're transitioning from room to room. So, I'm going to install these couple pieces, then bring this row with it. Something I've learned from experience, you don't want this too big around this corner, just because your door trim will not cover this up if it's too big. Just keep note of that. Yes, it's a little bit tight right here, but to me, I have to do that. If not, after the doors installed, you're going to see a gap here. Just so you know, that's what I've learned through experience after I go to hanging doors. You can see we transition from that room to this room seamlessly. Looks really good. Now, we're going to continue running the rest of this room we started in.
Using the chalk line method, we tied in the bedroom that's after the first bedroom we just installed in. And I also tied in the master bedroom behind the camera as well. So, everything is coming together really nice. I now need to show you a transition from this laminate flooring to a different type of flooring. So that way you know how to use a transition strip and when to use it.
I'm here in the master bathroom and I need to transition from the master bedroom to the master bathroom from the laminate flooring to the luxury vinyl cuz the luxury vinyl flooring is going to be more appropriate for a wet area like a bathroom because it's not near as susceptible to water damage like laminate flooring is. Even though this is ready to be waterproof, I'm going to feel better about having some type of vinyl in this bathroom. I now need to stop this flooring somewhere in an area to where the transition strip will be underneath of the door slab. So, this is going to be a end swing door here. The slab is going to be right in this area. So, after we install the rail for our transition strip, we need the appropriate expansion gap here. So, I'm going to show you where to calculate that. In this door opening, the door slab comes flush with this drywall on the bathroom side since it's in swing and it's an inch and a quarter thick. Technically, the slab's going to be right here, but we don't want our transition strip to go past this drywall. So, we want to stop our flooring just enough to be halfway the thickness of the rail for the transition strip. And then we need an expansion gap here, 3/8, just like we've been doing. So if we stop our floor roughly right in the middle here, the opening that's going to give us the appropriate distance. And when we cut our luxury vinyl, we're going to come in about this far once it's to be installed. So we need to stop this flooring right here.
Measuring off the exposed side of the last row, I'm going to measure up to that mark. That gives me just about five inches, four and seven eighths. And I'm going to take the piece that I cut down to go around the opening and place that mark on here coming off the finish side. I'm now going to rip this off to make the piece to go under the door. Some installers would simply install the transition strip right in the middle of the door opening for simplicity sake. Just so you know, we can now install the luxury vinyl in the bathroom. Even though I'm installing luxury vinyl here, I wanted to show you how I cut around this toilet flange because you can use the same method with laminate flooring as well. I first found the center and marked it onto the luxury vinyl. I then tacked a nail on that section of the flooring. I then measured the diameter of the toilet flange and then add 3/8 to 1/2 of the measurement and then marked that on the flooring. Use my chalk line to hold on that mark. and then went in a circle around that nail and that's what marked it onto the flooring. I then scribed around with my utility knife because this is luxury vinyl with laminate I would not have to do that. I took a coping saw to cut around and snapped it out and you can see it gave me a nice finished cut around the toilet flange. I made a detailed video installing luxury vinyl. If you'd like to check that out, I'll put a link to it in description below.
The transition between the laminate flooring to the luxury vinyl is just about a quarter inch. Here's the thickness of the luxury vinyl. And here is the laminate. And if we take a look, it's about a quarter inch difference. This is an eighth. This is 3/8. And here's our door here. It's a split jam door. So, it pulls apart. So, what we need to do is notch just about a quarter inch off this side of the door so that it steps down onto this luxury vinyl. And what you could do here is is put a quarter inch plywood underneath of this luxury vinyl and it could have been flush that way. But this homeowner did not want that. So, we're just going to step it down. So, I'm just going to notch that out of the door before installing it. This was a very simple process. We first took the split jam door apart and then placed it in the opening. And I marked where the laminate flooring met the jam. And I did that on each side of the door because we're going to have to notch around that to settle down on top of the luxury vinyl. We then placed the door on saw horses. I placed a quarter inch mark in order to go down below the laminate floor, then notch it out with my oscillating tool. I could have used a circular saw as well. I then placed the door into the opening and installed it. You can see it looks really nice where we have it installed. I then removed the panel off the door jam so that way it wasn't in the way as we installed the transition strip. And you can see after notching it, it settled down where we needed it.
To transition from the laminate flooring to the luxury vinyl, we're going to have to install this transition strip. This is a 4 in one. So, it comes with the T- mold. It comes with the hard surface reducer. It also comes with the transition down to carpet. So, all that is all in this kit. So, whatever transition you have is going to be in here. And this came from Lowe's, and I'll put a link to it in the description below as well if you'd like to pick it up. Here is the metal piece that's going to be screwed down to the floor. And this also came with the screws. And it also came with anchors for concrete. So, we're only going to need these screws for our install. This is the T- mold. This is the hard surface reducer. And this is the transition to like a carpet. And we are going to be using this in conjunction with the T- mold. Now, if we were only going to install the T- mold, if it was a level surface, it would snap right in the center here for it to secure properly. But because we are going to be installing it with this strip, we're going to actually install it here like so. And then this will install on the other side. So, it'd be something like this. That would be the transition we would be going with for this install.
We're going to install the metal piece first. I'm first going to get the length in which I need to cut the metal strip to be installed. We have 23 and 1/2 in. I'm just going to mark that and then cut it using my tin snips. I'm going to place this strip down here just to make this flush after it's installed with this strip because it's going to be flat with this floor once it's clipped in. So, I do have to space this. You may or may not have to put the spacer to match the floor like I am here. I'm going to make sure I have my 3/8 gap for my laminate flooring. And this is going to be gap for this luxury vinyl appropriately as well. So, we're going to place a screw right here. I'm going to pre-drill through that spacer that I put down because it does want to split it. Just to be clear, the spacer is just a strip of luxury vinyl to space it evenly with the luxury vinyl. You want to get the measurement between the jam here. And this is going to be 24 and 1/4 in. That's going to be for the hard surface reducer. First, I'm going to lay this in here like so. And I'm just going to mark here to where it has to go right around this section of the door because that's going to snap in in this area. Because of that, we need to take out this notch. Just go around this part of the jam. Okay. And I just notched that with the oscillating tool. This is laminate, so it cuts pretty easy. We're going to snap that down on this side first. So now we are flush with the laminate flooring. We're going to cut the T- mold to cut right around this part of the door. And it's going to snap into that part of the track to finish the transition. Okay, this is cut to length to fit in between just like we did here. But we got to place it where it's going to be installed to mark where to notch around. This really needs a little notch right here around that. And over here, same idea. Just little notch here. Before applying silicone, I'm going to dry fit this into place to make sure it's going to fit. And before I snap that in, it feels like it's going to go fine. So, we're going to place silicone in here to hold everything into place. I'm now going to place a bead here to secure the T- mold to the strip. We're going to snap this into place. All right, I'm going to take the rubber mallet just to tap it down all the way. All right, the transition is complete. And that looks really good.
After installing the transition strip, we could continue installing the rest of the flooring. We're now entering into the kitchen and we have pipes to cut around. Whenever we got up to these pipes, we simply just measured back how far we got to drill the hole for them. And then we marked the flooring to where the pipes are going to hit. And then we used a speed square to mark that onto the laminate floor. And that's going to give us our exact position to drill the hole out. We took a paddle bit and made sure we have at least a quarter to 3/8 inch around the pipe. And you can see the holes are cut out really nice. We then placed the flooring right over the pipe. After we placed flooring over the pipe, we installed it. And you can see that gives us a nice cut around for the pipes.
I'm now at the point to where I got to finish up along the wall where the flooring is ending. And this is where we're going to have to use the pull bar to finish up. And we need to get a measurement in order to rip down the last row that goes up along the wall. To rip down this last row, I'm going to get my measurement from off the drywall right up to the previous row, which is right at 6 in. And then we need to subtract the 3/8 off of that. So that would put us at five and 5/8 we need to rip this down to. The reason why we don't want to tuck this under the drywall is we need to have enough room to get our pull bar behind it to seal up against the previous row so we close the gap. And that is something we're want to do using the pull bar. We'll begin installing this just like we would any other piece in a row. We're now going to snap it in. We're then going to use the pull bar and then we're going to drive it into the previous row. We want to place a spacer here just to make sure we are spaced correctly. And then we're going to drive this tight. All right. And that's really the key is just make sure you use the pull bar on this last row to get it to seal. Then to finish up this last row, just continue that process until we get to the end of the wall. That was the last row of the floor install in this house.
Now that all the flooring's installed, we need to address the perimeter of the flooring using what's called backer rod. We're going to take the backer rod and tuck it in around the edge of the floor. So that way it keeps the flooring contained and it gives us a place for expansion and contraction. And after we tuck this in the corner, we're just going to use a 100% silicone. Just place a light bead over this so that way we have a waterproof floor install. That's really important, especially in a bathroom and kitchen. So, I'm going to show you how to address this area around the perimeter. I'm going to begin by taking a shim to help me tuck the backer rod in behind the flooring and up against the wall. There are different widths of backer rod you can get. This is 3/8 backer rod. After the backer rod is tucked in, we're going to take 100% silicone and just caulk right over that. Then make sure you smooth out that silicone. And that's really the best way to have a waterproof seal yet allow for expansion and contraction around the perimeter. This is why it's essential to order 10% extra. I made a mistake cutting this floor vent out. Now, this piece is scrap, but that's okay. You're going to make mistakes, especially if this is your first time doing flooring. So, it's okay. It's part of the process. Just keep moving forward and you'll get the floor done.
Okay. Couple things I wanted to mention. This flooring is considered a floating floor, meaning there's no fasteners holding it into place. So, you must allow for the expansion contraction around the edges. And if you're wondering how this is going to look once the base is on, you can see that's going to cover that up and give you a nice finish. But something else I wanted to mention, if you're doing a remodel or something of that nature where the base is already installed on the wall after you remove carpet or something, when you install your flooring, you would do essentially the same thing, just gap it appropriately. And you can keep the base on and not remove it. And then you would install what's called quarter round to cover up that gap. And that's going to give you a nice finished look. So if you're curious about that, that's how you would address that. If you'd like to see a detailed video on how to install luxury vinyl, check out this video. It'll help you out.