How to Repair Your Credit Yourself in 2026 — Step-by-Step Workshop (Part 1)

Repairing your credit on your own in 2026. What is the information that you need to be aware of? What are the things that you need to do? Um, what are some tools that will make the process easier for you? Uh, just some expert guidance, you know, on your guys' credit repair process. So, ready. All right.

So, I will be sharing my screen at some points on like within our broadcast. If you're on TikTok, I think you guys will be able to see the whole screen, but to me, the viewing experience is the best on YouTube. You know, I don't know. Put me on, you know, put the TV on, have your notebook, and you know, get ready. But, you can still watch it on TikTok. I'm new to broadcasting from my computer to TikTok, so I don't really know how it looks. Like I probably should have looked, but I'm hoping you guys can see the full screen, especially when I get to sharing the screen, okay?

So, now that we have all that out of the way, so long intro, but now that we have all that out of the way, now we can actually focus on uh what we're here to focus on, which is our credit scores, how to repair your credit in 2026. So, before I start, I just kind of want to take a survey of like who's in attendance tonight. Put a one in the chat if you are a person who has a low credit score, and by low, I mean like let's just say under 600, and you're looking to increase your credit score. Put a two in the chat if you're a person who has good or even great credit, and you're just sort of looking to expand and kind of cross all your T's and dot your I's to take it to the next level. Um, and then the last group of people that I want to highlight or see if you're present, put a three in the chat. So, yeah, I'm like figuring it out. Okay, just ignore that y'all see that 'cause I got to like change the thing, okay? Ghetto. Oh, well. All right.

So, this is the website I wanted to show you guys. Why isn't it showing the whole thing? Is it showing the whole screen? Let me see. [clears throat] Okay, it's showing enough, but that's going to be a problem when I'm showing the what's-it-call-it. Let me. All right. So, this is the website, guys. annualcreditreport.com. >> [snorts] >> Uh, annualcreditreport.com. And that's where you get your official credit reports from. You don't have to pay for your official credit reports. If a website is telling you that you need to pay, it's you're on the wrong website, okay? Um, and I wanted to show it to you guys because a lot of you guys say, "Well, I tried to go on there, and they tried to charge me." That's not the website that you need to be on because your credit report is free. It's free. You can download all three of them: Experian, TransUnion, and Equifax.

Why is it important that you guys download your official credit reports? Well, the number one reason is because when you are repairing your credit, when you are uh challenging accounts, and we'll get to that in a second. However, it is vital that you actually know what's on your credit report. I know you're probably like, "Okay, well, I have uh Credit Karma, Credit Sesame, Smart Credit. I have a credit monitoring um membership. So, why do I need my official credit reports?" Well, actually, any credit monitoring site, it is not your full credit report. They don't have the full 7 to 10-year history. A lot of monitoring sites typically house about 3 years of detailed information, and then they'll kind of, you know, give you bits and pieces or an overall view, I would say, of your credit report. So, you'll know what's going on, and it's always good to have monitoring. I have monitoring. I'm an advocate for it. You need to monitor your credit, yes. However, it isn't an excuse or a substitute for your official credit reports, especially when it comes to challenging your accounts, okay? I cannot stress that enough, especially when we get to talking about like um accounts that you should that I recommend that you challenge, and how to challenge them, and things of that nature, it's going to be vital that you actually have an official copy of your credit reports um with detailed information because you're not going to get the detailed information on credit monitoring sites as you will on your official credit report, right? So, annualcreditreport.com. Get your credit reports for free. Nobody has an excuse. Everybody needs to download their credit reports, okay? Okay.

All right. So, now that we have that out of the way, the first thing, and I don't know how to Well, I guess I could have put present. I I don't want to present it. Okay, so we're just going to have to show it like this. Uh, let me see if I can. Yeah, how about we do that? Just so you're not distracted and kind of see like the sides or whatever. We're just going to have to show it like this, guys, 'cause I hate to do the presentation mode 'cause I can't really maneuver on my screen like I want to, okay? So, this is just has to work for now. All right.

So, of everybody who's in the audience right now, does anybody have a copy of their credit report? Have you ever gotten a copy of your credit report? Is that something that you've ever actually downloaded, an official copy of your credit report? Yes or no? Yes, yes, yes, I have it. Okay, great question. Someone asked, "How often can you get?" So, the answer to that is you can get a copy of your credit report uh it's supposed to be twice a year, but they really let you get it like every, I think, a quarter now. At first, it was like once a week. I think that they switched. They recently switched it to like you can get it a quarter. I personally, I get a copy, I download a new copy of my credit report every quarter. So, about every 4 months, just to have on record. And another reason why it's so important that you guys do uh have your official credit reports downloaded like you know, that you have, is because once FICO updates your credit report, once the credit bureaus, I'm sorry, update your credit report, there's no way you can get a previous copy of it. So, whatever changes happen within the last report and your current one, you're not going to be able to have any proof of whatever it is that you're perhaps challenging or looking at or monitoring that was on your previous report and it's no longer there. There's no proof. So, it's really important, especially at the start of your credit repair process, I always say, start with that. Get a copy of exactly a still shot of exactly how your credit report looks now. What's on it? How accounts are reporting? Because what you're going to find is as you get to sending dispute letters to the credit bureaus, there'll be a lot of changes on your credit report.

One of the number one things is the credit bureaus can only respond in one of three ways. They can either. And when I say respond, I'm referring to like respond to your disputes. Say you are disputing an account, okay? They can only respond in one of three ways. They can say, "This account was removed. It was deleted, okay?" Or they can say, "This account remains. So, we're not changing anything on this account. We don't agree with whatever you challenged on this credit report, and you know, it's just going to stay the same." Or they can say um or or they can say >> [clears throat] >> or they can say they changed something in how that account was reporting. It's only one of three ways that they can respond. But, the first two ways are pretty straightforward. Obviously, if they delete the account, then it's deleted, and you no longer challenge it anymore, right? Obviously, if they refuse to delete the account, and they're going to stand by whatever reporting, however they're reporting that account, then, you know, the only thing you can do is follow up and dispute again, right? But, this the third reason is the reason that people miss a lot, and it's honestly what keeps most people from having successful um credit repair processes. It's when they change information on your credit report. So, a lot of people will get, "Okay, we've just changed X, Y, Z." And they'll just look at that like, "Okay, whatever. They didn't delete it, so I'm just going to ignore that, or I'm just going to keep trucking with my dispute process, and not really pay attention to anything that they've changed." That is a grave mistake because I'm going to tell you now from my experience, and I've gotten thousands, it's maybe a million now, but I can't really say that 'cause I don't know the exact number. I've gotten thousands of items removed from credit reports. The number one response that um that equals equates to a deletion the most often that is so slept on is that third response. When they change something on your credit report, depending on what they've changed, it's almost always another item that you can dispute because how the dispute process works and how the credit bureaus process disputes, with e-Oscar and with with AI, obviously, now, there are so many clerical errors that happen. There are so many changes that they make that are not accurate. That is a challenge for you. You have consumer rights. So, I say all that to say, get a copy of your official report just to have a record in time. Just so you can have a still shot record because they can't refute what you say, what you believe that was on your credit report, but they cannot refute what you have proof. What you have proof, especially when it comes to filing official complaints and things of that nature, you have to have proof. You can't just be filing CFPB complaints and thinking that they're going to remove it. They're going to ignore you. Well, they're not going to ignore you. They're just not going to delete it. You're just going to be really talking to a wall. When it comes to actually getting results on and getting deletions and actually seeing improvements on your credit profile, you got to have proof. Get your credit reports. That was a whole rant just to say the same thing, but get your credit reports, okay?

Um, now, another thing. Okay, I don't. We don't got to really go over all of these, but this is what I found. So, for the last year, I've been redesigning a do-it-yourself credit repair kit all over. I've had them. I've made um we must get smarter and do different things if we actually want to stop getting played. And like that's really the driving force for me. So like if you're not actually trying to learn, then this system is going to seem exhaustive for no reason. I'm just going to be honest with you and up front with you, okay? But if you are trying to learn, then I'm your girl. I'm your girl. I'll explain things ad nauseam. I'll explain things. There's no dumb question here. If I say something, use jargon, you know, unknowingly, and you're like, "What does that mean?" I don't care how simple you think it is. Please ask. Like I must prefer to clarify whatever I'm saying. And I'm a yapper. I'm a certified yapper. So I never mind talking. I'm just saying. You can ask anybody that knows me. I don't mind talking, okay? So ask the question. I prefer you to ask the question before you just assume. I swear. Just ask the question. All right.

So, it's six phases. The first [snorts] phase, we're going to work on correcting personal information. That's another reason why you need your official credit reports. The second phase is we're going to initiate the first rounds of account accuracy disputes. If you're familiar with my older systems, then you know that this is sort of similar to the order that I use, but there are small tweaks. So don't just assume that it's the same system. It's not. I promise you guys. It's not, okay? Um, by the way, everybody in Credit Academy, obviously you guys will get this for the whole packet in much detailed webinars for free, but this is just a quick run-through, right? This is session one. Uh, phase three, conduct the final disputes with just the credit bureaus. And I'll explain what I mean by that 'cause you're like, "Wait. What?" Phase four, get to filing external complaints and consider legal action, threaten legal action, that sort of thing. Phase five, substantially challenge and follow up on disputes. You're like, probably like, "What? Didn't you just say we were done?" Again, it will make sense. I promise you it will make sense. Um, phase six, prevent new collections if you do have them. This is not everybody is going to need phase six, but that's sort of just like a cleanup round, okay? All right. [snorts] All right. I'm not going over all that. So let's just get to the meat and butter. All right.

So again, I'm just going to assume that you guys have your credit reports. If you don't have a copy of your credit report, download it after you watch this and then just come back and replay it and walk through. Regardless, just get a piece of paper and write it down because I'm going to be speaking as though I assume that you have your credit report in front of you starting like now, you know? You get what I'm saying? >> [snorts] >> All right. Um, so the first step in this entire process is obtaining all three of your official credit reports. Again, you go to annualcreditreport.com and I need you to request to download all three. So get TransUnion, get Experian, and get Equifax, okay? Just download all three. When you download your reports, it's going to be a thick packet. Mhm. Three of them. It's going to be three different reports. And depending on how long you've been building credit, it's going to be lengthy. There are going to be seemingly a lot of information that you're forced to look at. You probably never had to face your credit report like that in an analog. You know, we used to on these credit monitoring sites and they kind of condense it a lot. So it will feel overwhelming. But I actually want you to download all three. And if you can, I want you to print them out. But if you can't, that's not the end of the world. But if you can, printing them out does help, okay?

Now that you have all three of your credit reports like right in front of you, I need you to line them up. And the first thing that you need to know about when you download your credit reports, it's going to be overwhelming, but credit reports kind of break down to just five important sections. Really five important sections that you just kind of need to be aware of and kind of know the lay of the land around your credit report. So again, it's a lot of information, but really the only thing that you need to know is number one, uh your personal information is typically going to be at the top. Irregardless of whichever credit report you are looking at, whether that's TransUnion, Equifax, or Experian, um you are going to be looking for your personal information section. Your personal information section is important because what it does is it houses your personal information. Ding ding ding. That's the mystery of personal information. No, I'm just kidding. Actually, personal information is a lot more important than most people will give it credit for. The personal information section of your credit report is probably the anchor of what your credit repair journey or credit report process will be like. I promise you, it all depends on your personal information section more than you perhaps may have ever realized. That part is most important because every name that you have reporting, every address that you have reporting, every employer that you have reporting, phone number, social security number, perhaps. All of that information landed on your credit report because either a creditor sent it to the credit bureaus or that's information that you put on a credit application. Right? So whenever you fill out a credit application, the information that you include, how you spell your name, the address that you are reporting, the income that you report, the employer that you report, the companies, whatever like you. Let's say you're applying for a Capital One credit card. You say, "Hey, my name is this. I live on 123 Main Street. My phone number is this. My social security number is this. My income is this. I work for etc." Capital One is required by law to send all of that information, all of your personal information to the credit bureau. "Hey, this is the information that was present on the application. We're just trying to match it with a consumer." They find a match, right? And then every bit of that information goes on your credit report. Why is that important? Well, that's important because your personal information is also what your creditors, let's say collection agencies and current and future creditors, that's what they use to determine if an account is yours. So if a collection agency believes that they have an account that belongs to you, they're using the information within your personal information section to verify that that account belongs to you. Another thing is the information that's in your personal information section, because it is reported by your creditors, it is considered verified information. So you could have 10 addresses just chilling on your credit report because let's just say you lost a credit card before and you were at an aunt's house or you were out of town and your bank sent you an emergency card. Well, the address that you reported or that you told them to ship that to, that's considered a legal address that's attached to your name now. And they will send that to the credit bureaus, right? So, um, I say all that to say, you want to distill this information as much as possible. The personal information section should not be a conglomerate of freaking 10 years of your life. Like it just should not. You want to give them the least amount of information possible, but not in a way that I'm saying like you should tell them to remove or try to get all of the information there removed. No. But more information that the more information that they have to verify accounts, the harder time that you are going to have with possibly like getting those accounts removed that you are likely going to challenge in the next phase. So phase one is just all about cleaning up your personal information. Cleaning up your personal information, okay? Meaning if you have different variations, spellings of your name, do you understand that makes you look bad? So when you do apply for a credit card and you have misspellings of your name, that automatically puts a red flag on your application 'cause you can potentially be a victim of fraud or you could be doing fraud. Why can't you know how to spell your name, right? That's how banks are looking at it. Why are you reporting different names when you are applying for these different things? That just looks bad. Even if it was a mistake, you want to correct it, right? Um, addresses are extremely important when it comes to correcting or building credit and having credit available to you. Addresses and employers. If you have a bunch of addresses on your credit report, that alerts the credit bureau or that alerts the creditors to assume that you don't have any stability, right? You're unstable in your addresses. And perhaps, I mean, I don't know if they'll go as far as to think you're homeless, but the point is like if you don't have a stable address and it doesn't appear that you are staying with the same address for more than a year, then they have heavy reason to assume that maybe your finances could be a factor, right? Like, why are you bouncing from house to house, right? Why did you report in January to Capital One that you stayed at 1234 Main Street, but then by May, you reported to American Express that you've moved and you stay at 567 Peach Street, right? It just looks like why are you always moving, okay? The same goes with employers. If you have multiple employers and it looks like you have multiple jobs on your credit report, that's actually not a good thing. Creditors don't want to lend a lot of credit to people that they find that their employment is not stable. Like, can they? What can they expect from you down the line? Can you keep a job? Are you switching employers every six months? Are you switching careers? A lot of times mistakes happen or appear in your personal information section from your employers because maybe you spelled it wrong. Like I know for me, I had a lot of misspellings with my employers. So it was the same companies, but what it looked like is I kept having a new job like every couple months, but it was the same employer. This You got to remember that anytime a new employer pops up on your credit report, all of your current creditors are alerted. So, they say, "Hey, Lashana got a new job. She just reported that she works for Road to 750. And this job just started this month. So, April of 2026." Meanwhile, I've been working for the same company for 10 years, but because I misspelled it and it doesn't exactly match what was already there, it's going to pop up as a new employer. You don't want that. 'Cause guess what? Just a little secret, anytime you apply for credit cards, cars, when a creditor looks over your credit application and they see that you just recently either moved within the last 6 months or started a new employer within the last 6 months, your buying power automatically decreases. They like, even if you've been working there for 10 years, your buying power automatically decreases because you're not even outside of the probation period. Right? Like, we don't know if you're going to have that job in 3 months. So, the trick is like never apply for any new credit if your employer hasn't been reported for. I always say at least 6 to 9 months, but honestly, a year and better is the best, okay? >> [snorts] >> Um, especially with business credit. It is actually 2 years with business credit, but that's just kind of whatever. So, if you are a person that is constantly getting hit anytime you apply for credit, you're getting hit with the "we're looking over your application and give us 7 to 10 business days to check your information." It, I guarantee you, it's because of your personal information section. It's probably inconsistent across the credit bureaus. Maybe TransUnion got you working at Popeyes, and then Equifax got you working at McDonald's. I'm just, you know, obviously naming employers, but I'm just saying like you want all that. You want your personal information to be consistent and distilled as much as possible. So, when you download your credit reports, you probably have like 10 names, 10 employers, 10 different phone numbers. Erase all of that. Erase all of that. Get all of that corrected, okay? And I know you're going to ask, "Well, like how? Wait, where's my screen? How do we get all of that corrected?" I mean, obviously I'm going to show you if I can find my screen, I'm going to show you. All right, let me scroll down. I know y'all can't see it yet, but give me a second. I'm going to go to it. Um, okay, I hope this can show on TikTok. All right, let's see. Hands crossed, fingers crossed that it shows. All right, can you guys see the full letter? Can you put a letter or something in the chat if you can see it? And by the way, if you're on YouTube, it may be best to go to. I mean, no, no, no. If you're on TikTok, it may be best to go to YouTube to see the full screen. I'm trying to make it bigger, y'all. I mean, I'm trying to. Y'all say, "Okay, y'all can see it." Let me try to cut off the top 'cause I know that's. I don't know. They be distracting for me. So, hold on. If you're in Credit Academy, you don't really have to screenshot 'cause y'all going to get this, but let me see if I can. Hold on. Okay, the bottom. Yeah, I'm trying to. That may be better. We good? Yes, okay. Oh, okay, on TikTok y'all can see it, too. That is cool. Okay. So, what letter is this? Why didn't I put it? Oh, personal information, but I thought I put it on there. Okay. That's going to bother me. All right, because I know most of you guys are screenshotting, I'm going to put. Dang it, where? Why do I keep losing the screen? Like why does it keep going in the background? Hold on, y'all. Just because it may be hard to remember 'cause obviously you're going to have more than one letter screenshot. Shot it. And so I just want to make sure that you know what you're looking at when you look at it, okay? All right. That's too small. Okay. Okay. Let me get a drink.

So, the very first step is after you get your credit reports, I want you to look at all three. Look at the personal information section of all three of your credit reports. And the kit, the actual kit comes with a tracker that you guys will be able to write down because really what I wanted to do is I go through and say, "Hey, write down every variation of your name that's not correct." Like, if it's your married name, I mean, if it's your maiden name and you're now married and that's what you go by on your legal documents, then you can choose to leave your maiden name there, but you don't have to, right? If maybe it's just misspellings. Like I had a lot of misspellings on my name. And I just corrected all of those. So, just literally write down every single name that you are disputing, every single address that you're disputing, every single social security number if it's not yours, if somebody else's social security number is attached to your credit report. Maybe you were co-owners on an account or maybe you co-signed for someone, you know, their information will likely be on your report. Their address for sure. Pay special attention to the address section. I don't care if it's an address that you used to. If you have not lived at that address in the last, my limit is 24 months. It's really 12 months, but I think legally they can hold it for 24 months, so I'm just going to stick to the legal guidelines. Write that address down. Write it down on your metaphorical tracker. Just get a piece of paper. Just say the information that I'm or or just put personal information and then write down every variation of name. And yes, even if it's off one letter. My name is Lashonda, my name is spelled L-A-S-H-O-N-D-A. There were L-A-S-H-A-N-D-A. You're getting off my credit report. That's not me. Not me. So, you need to challenge that, okay? If your aunt's address is on your credit report, it needs to be challenged. Your cousin's, your sister's. I don't care. If it's not your current address, it doesn't need to be on your credit report. If you cannot be reached by mail at that address, then legally it doesn't need to be on your credit report. If you just quit. If you used. If you have two jobs, you please only report one current job, one current employer. Two jobs actually doesn't make you look better in the eyes of lenders. They don't want to know that you need two places of employment to sustain your lifestyle. Then they're going to automatically assume that you are overextended financially and at any moment you can either lose one of those jobs or they can be on the chopping block. It's not actually a good look to lenders, okay? So, have one job. Personal advice, if you are an entrepreneur and you have your own company, never ever put that you are self-employed. Why? You're just asking to jump through 10,000 more hoops. What you should do going forward is your company, you should be an employee of your company. I own Road to 750. No, ma'am, on paper I'm employed by Road to 750. Legally, it's true. That's how I pay and file my taxes. And it's just what it is. I am an employee of Road to 750, okay? And that's what I report. I don't put self-employed. No, ma'am. I'm employed. Why? Self-employment, lenders don't care about that. You're actually just placing yourself in a riskier category. They don't care. They prefer 9-to-5 workers or employed workers than self-employed. Self-employed is not guaranteed. Everybody got a business in an LLC nowadays. Not everybody actually can sustain a business. So, it just looks better if you put you are employed. You should be an employee of your company, okay? So, my credit report, I'm an employee of Road to 750. Do they need to know that I'm the CEO? No, they don't. Quite frankly, they don't. They just need to know I get a check every 2 weeks 'cause I do. And you should be an employee of your company, okay? Okay.

So, this is. Why does it keep doing that? It keeps. Every time I click, it goes [snorts] away. All right, so that was letter number one. Um, this is the personal information letter, okay? What you are going to place on this letter. Oh, my bad. I shouldn't have switched. What you are going to place on this letter. All the letters that's in red. Oh, shoot. Okay, wait. Dang it, that's what happens when you work. I should. I don't know how to lock it. Yes, I do. All right. So, on all of the letters that I show you, there are going to be red letters and there's black letters. The red letters, I specifically turn them red because I obviously want them to stick out to you because I want you to understand that that is the information that you need to change. If y'all send a template to the credit bureaus with your full name, your address, I'm only saying this 'cause it's happened multiple times. Like, come on. Like, y'all. This is obviously a template. I don't know your information and no, this letter is not just ready to send. You have to fill out your information. So I turned it all red, okay? If it's in red, I need you to edit it. All right. This is. This one is very straightforward. Um, any name that they have listed, any names that they have listed, then you would put it here. So if we were challenging. Now I want to unlock it. So let's just say I'm challenging my credit report. This is what I would put. So let my name is S-H-O-N-D-A. If they had S-H-A-N-D-A, I'm going to put that right there. I'm going to put a comma. Let's just say maybe they had S-H-A-U-N-D-A. I'm going to put a comma. I mean, I'm going to put that right there. Uh, and actually my full name is Lashonda. So just for to show you an example of something that they did have. They had one of the names that was on my credit report was Lashonda T Martin. My middle name starts with an N. I don't know who that is. So I put the full, you know, that full name because that was wrong. Um, and actually, actually, if you want to be technical, they had Shonda on there as well. I don't know who that lady is. On official documents, my name is Lashonda Morrison. That's on my birth certificate. That's on my ID. I don't know who this Shonda person is and why you would have an unofficial name on. Like, I don't get it. The point is I also had to place Shonda on here, okay? You get the point. You get the point. Addresses. Let's say my cousin's address was on there. It turned it back black, but let's say my cousin's address was on there, which it was, 'cause I received mail at her house one time and apparently like they wanted to put her address on there. So I put that right here. They had an old address on here, too. So I put that on here. Uh, they had. This is when I was. So I was staying in an apartment, but they had the wrong apartment number. So I put that on here. Um, you get what I'm saying? Oh, and another thing, hold on. Just so. Another thing is they had old addresses on here. You also need to put that on there. If it's older than 24 months, don't have it on your credit report. So the go and phone number. I personally like my phone number on my credit report because it's just another layer of verification. So me personally, I kept my phone number on there, but they did have like old phone numbers and stuff like that on there and I didn't want them on my credit report anymore. I couldn't be reached there, so it was no point. So I challenged those, but you don't have to challenge your actual phone number if it's on there, okay? Uh, employer, you get the gist. I don't got to go through all of that. Now, as you scroll down, you're going to see at the bottom where it says last four digits of your social security number. You don't need to put your full social security number. Just put the last four digits of your social security number. That's the only information that they need to know, okay? And then right here, right here, put your name. Like just type your name. Okay? Who is this letter going to? Credit bureau. So you would. You would also fill out their information. Experian. Okay, I'm messing up the letter now. And I don't want to. Mind you, this is my main document, so I don't know why I'm editing this, but you guys get what I am like, you get where I'm coming from, okay? You get where I'm coming from. All right. Let's erase all the edits that I made before I forget. Okay.

So this is the first personal information letter, guys. I'm going to zoom out one more time so you guys can. Okay, actually, I don't need to zoom out. So I'm going to give you guys 10 more seconds to screenshot this and then we're going to move on. Any questions before we move on to the next letter or the next step? Yeah. This is going to be on YouTube for replay. No, good question. Somebody asked, "Do you leave it in red?" No, no, no. Don't leave it in red. So the red is just for y'all, for us. It's like our secret information. Not secret, but you get what I'm saying. No, no, no. So turn it all black. So actually, before you send it, just do a control. Where am I at? Let me go back to it. Do this. Before you send it, just do a control all and turn everything black. Control A and then turn everything black. The red is just so you know what to change before you send it. It's literally just to scream at you to say, "Hey, this. You need to change this information before you send it, okay?" Uh, what are the addresses of the bureaus? Actually, I got that. I'll show it. I'll show it at the end. I'll show it. Just remind me. Okay. So this letter, the only time that you would send this letter is if you have incorrect personal information on your credit report. You want updated, accurate, and complete information reporting in your personal information section of your credit report, okay? All right. So that's step whatever. Whatever step we were just on. So then what you're going to find. What you're going to find >> [snorts] >> Oh lord, I'm a little hoarse today. Oh, before you move on, I'll say that at the end. I don't want to get sidetracked. All right.

So then there's another situation that you may run into as we are challenging the personal information section of your credit report. You may find that the credit bureaus will respond to your letter that you just sent, the letter that we just showed, and they're going to either say usually one or two things, one or three things. They'll say, "Hey, okay, we have corrected the information. So we removed the name, the misspelled name, the old address, etc., right?" Or they can do what the bureaus are usually going to do. So I want to forewarn you guys just so you know that when this happens, you're. That doesn't mean you did anything wrong. You know, it's all planned for and proportioned for. Like I already expected them to respond in certain ways and therefore in this kit, like we got answers and solutions for that. So they're usually going to respond at your first and second, probably third attempt at correcting all of your personal information, they're going to say, in so many words, "We're not removing it." So let me tell you, legally, legally the credit bureaus do not have to remove information that you are challenging on your within your personal information if your current creditors are actively reporting that information. So what. And now that I think about it, I am going to put the letter that I'm going to show you guys next. I'm going to put that as the first letter 'cause I just thought about it. It's a better first step to send a letter to all of your current creditors to ask them to update. Make sure that they have all of your updated information. Hey, just wanting to check your record. Ensuring that you know all of my current information. Here's my current address. Here is my current phone number. Here is, you know, my name, whatever, etc. If you guys hear my kids, ignore them. Anyways, here's all my current information. I want to make sure that you have the most recent and active and up-to-date information. So that's actually the first step. You want to make sure that your creditors are on the same page. 'Cause if your creditors are actively reporting that, >> [clears throat] >> then um they're not going to remove it. All right. So let me show you guys that. And so in that case, hold on. My bad. My mother texted me. Sorry. All right. Uh, where were we at? Oh, personal. Oh, I thought I thought y'all was looking at the letter. My bad. I would have waited. Uh, which one? Okay. Oh, this one. Okay. Let me show you guys. So this is a follow-up. This is a personal information follow-up. A personal information follow-up. Um, yeah, this is a follow-up. All right. Oh, okay. My. Yo, yo, this girl. I just lost the whole screen. Is it still up? Mhm. Oh, it is. Okay, we good. We goody two-shoes. All right. So, the. Oh, put the fill out the thing. All right, I just wanted to see if. Personal information follow-up. So, if they refuse to. If they refuse to update the information, you always should need to have a follow-up, okay? So, respond with this. Respond with this. >> [snorts] >> All right. So, what other letter did I? It was um. Oh, okay. The bureau one. I'm like, I'm missing something, but I forgot I didn't put them in that order. I didn't put it in the order that I just told you guys, but I will. So, actually, when you guys get the kit, you're going to see a different personal information letter that first 'cause I just thought about it. Like it makes the most sense. So, let me get that right now. Where is it at? Okay, well, we. Oh, here we go. Here we go. Here we go. Here it goes. Okay. So, this is current creditor. Let me put current creditor on here. Personal info current creditor. All right. So, this is the letter that you need to send your current credit. Oh, I keep forgetting that y'all not looking at the screen. Jesus. All right. So, Okay, can y'all see the full thing? And this will not go to the credit bureau. This is to your creditor. Creditor. So, Capital One, send just like send literally send it to all of your active accounts, active creditors. Hey, this I'm just formally requesting, you know, to ensure that you have you are reporting the correct information. It's like this letter is just, you know, you can send it on the same day if you want to, but you just want to make sure that your current credit. You really, I guess technically you should send this first, at least 2 weeks before you challenge the bureaus. Just because if they are reporting incorrect information, they can report your new information to the credit bureaus and it just makes it easier for you to get the incorrect information removed. It just makes it easier. Let me refill my cup. All right. Oops. Oh, shoot. Can y'all. Yeah, y'all can see it. I need some more ice. Um, hold on. TikTok making me do the puzzle thing. They get on my nerves with that. All right. So, for playback purposes, I'm going to chop this up. I'm going to edit this clip in, so just ignore me what I'm about to say. Oops. Where is it? Okay, so this is the first letter that you will send. So, you will send this to your current creditors. And this is just a formal update of, hey, here is the correct information that I would like for you to report in association with this account: my full legal name, my current address, my date of birth, my social security number. Just to ensure that the records that the credit bureaus are housing from you are accurate and that you have the most up-to-date and recent information on my credit report. So, you will send this first. Uh, I say give it about 2 weeks before you challenge the credit bureaus, challenge the personal information on your credit bureau, especially if you know that this creditor has outdated information or incorrect information that they're currently reporting to the credit bureau. You do this before you challenge the credit bureaus because if your current creditors are reporting information contrary to what you are telling them to report, they're automatically going to assume that the information that your creditors have, your current creditors, who you're currently paying and have active accounts with, is correct. So, they're going to choose their side over you unless you're on the same page as them or perhaps they're on the same page as you. So, shoot this out to all of your current creditors first. It will make the world of a difference. I guarantee it will make the world of a difference in challenging your personal information, okay? So, you will send this letter first. And then, 2 weeks after you send that letter, then you can begin to challenge the credit bureaus, challenge the personal information directly with the credit bureaus. And this is the letter that you will send. This is titled the personal information letter. This is the first official challenge that you're sending to the credit bureaus after you have already challenged or after you have already updated your personal information with your creditors, okay? And then, if the credit bureaus respond back with anything other than, you know, hey, we have corrected all of the misinformation and all of that, this is where you would send the follow-up letter. This goes directly to the credit bureaus as well. So, as soon as they say, hey, we can't remove this or we're going to keep this information, you

Respond immediately with this letter. And that actually brings me to, like, my next point that I would like to stress when it comes to repairing your own credit. A mistake that a lot of people make when they are repairing their own credit is they do not understand, or they don't understand, the importance of timing. They don't understand the importance of following up.

Um, I'm going to tell you right now. If you are a serious person, like, and you actually want them to take you serious, you want your disputes to actually advance and actually make a difference in whatever the case, you got, you got 14 days max to respond. It's not the time to be waiting months. If the credit bureau respond to you, "Hey, we're not deleting this," or, "Or we have deleted this," or, "We've changed this," whatever, your response needs to be in that mail, in their inbox, within 14 days, and there's no excuse. I'm telling you. Like, it's just no excuse.

If you think you can hazardly, like, try to repair your credit every few months, send a dispute, you're never going to have good credit. And I don't know what else to tell you. Like, seriously, like, I, I genuinely, I'm not trying to be mean, but like, we got to get serious about it, okay? So, you got 14 days. I run a strict program. In this program, you got 14 days to respond, or, or it's null and void. Like, they don't care what you have to say. They don't care, um, about anything. But actually, legally speaking, like, yes, I'm, I'm actually not joking when I say that, but I want to stress the importance because even legally speaking, when it comes to our consumer rights, how our credit reports are regulated, okay? If you present any information, any new information within 14 days of a decided dispute, so a decided investigation, a completed investigation, they have to legally take whatever you say into consideration. After 14 days, they actually technically don't have to listen to you. Like, like, they actually can, can, can ignore your dispute request. A lot of y'all getting ignored already. I'm sure y'all, y'all already know what it's like for the credit bureau to, like, just disregard completely what you are, you are saying and whatever. And you're, you're wondering why your disputes are never advancing to the next level and you're never actually getting real, real, like, deletions. You are taking too long to respond. It's no way it should take you a month to respond. It's no way. It's no way.

What? Okay, if, if that's your, if that's your, you know, if that's what you going, if that's what you want to do, that's what you want to do, but you just don't expect results. Just don't expect results. Don't even waste your time sending these letters, sis. Don't even waste your time 'cause you're not going to get the results that you want. You got 14 days. 14 days. How many days do you have? Like, if the credit bureau say, "Hey, we're not deleting nothing. We ain't deleting nothing. We don't care what you say. The name that we reporting, we want to report." How many days do you have to respond? Can somebody just tell me? This. How many days do they legally have to give you in order to, to concur whatever they have decided? Thank you. 14 days, y'all.

And I, and, and I'm going to take it a step further, y'all. Can we just get in the habit of responding within 7 days? I'm telling you, as a professional, professional people, people that you hire, professional credit consulting, uh, professional credit specialists, they're going, you know why they beat you on in this process? You know why they are getting results and you got to pay them hundreds of dollars a month to get the same results that you can get from your home? You know why you got to pay them all that money? Because they know that they need to. They respond within 3 days. 3 to 7 days, they respond. 3 to 7 days, they already got the letter in the mail. By freaking a week, TransUnion already got the response in their, um, inbox. Yeah, in their inbox. Stop taking so long to respond. Stop taking so long to respond.

Okay, I've already stressed that point enough. 14 days, yes. But just like, so, so, so what I just always say is have your follow-up letter, like, the, the follow-up letter, have that already filled out. Have it already filled out, ready to go by the time that you send the first one. Just have it filled out and ready. Lock, load, and ready.

Oh, one more important thing. When you are mailing these letters to the credit bureaus, to the credit bureaus, credit bureaus, TransUnion, Equifax, and Experian, include a copy of your ID. So, just like if you have a printer at home, uh, uh, photocopy your ID. It could be in black and white, it just has to be legible. Like, take a clear picture of your ID and just, just print out, like, you know, maybe 20 copies of it and keep it in your, your DIY credit repair folder. Just have copies of it, okay? Because you want to always include a copy of your ID within the same envelope as your dispute, as every dispute, just to avoid the identification questions and process and rebuttals that they'll do. Like, honestly, it's just a waste of time. Send it, send them the information that they need, right? Like, you know, off the bat so you don't have to kind of go back and forth with them and it, you know, extend the process, elongate the process for no reason. Just send it, okay? Copy, copy about 20 copies and just have it on deck and have it ready and put it in every envelope, even if you already verified your identity, okay?

All right, moving on. So now we have challenged our personal information. We've challenged our personal information. Our, our current creditors are, are aware of, of the information that we want them to report. Everybody's on the same page. We are a happy family. We're a happy family. The last letter that I want you guys to have when it comes to personal information, and I just like to, well, yeah, I just, I just think that this is a letter that everyone should have, just in case. It may, you may not ever have to use this letter. I'm trying to write the title on it so you guys won't get mixed up. You may never have to use this letter, but like a lot of people perhaps will. So, what this letter is, it's a, it's another personal information letter, but it's specifically for if you are a victim of a mixed or merged credit report. A mixed or merged credit report is when someone else's information is on your credit report. Why is that? Is when someone else's information is on your credit report. Thank, I hope they don't edit like that. In the vertical view, it is not showing the full screen. So, just watch, like, I mean, yeah, the vertical, just watch the horizontal one on YouTube. Whatever.

Um, yeah, mixed or merged. So, this is when somebody else's information is on your credit report. This is, this is very common when you have similar names to, like, someone else that's in your household. If there's a senior and a junior, and you've used the same address, a lot of times, like, there are, your reports will be mixed. Twins and, you know, whatever the case. Siblings. So, so, this is just a good letter to have, just in case you are a victim of someone else's information being on your credit report, and you just need the language to properly challenge. Here is just a letter that you can use to do so.

All right. So, now we're going to go back to the credit reports, and obviously, this is just session one. So, I think we can get through at least two phases fully tonight. Tomorrow, we can proceed. So, so, again, that's just the identity cleanup. Um, the kit, the kit, as you can see, it has, like, just a lot more information that I just kind of wanted you guys to be aware of and know, and whatever the case, as you are going to, like, through this process. And I'm not going to go over every point tonight. It's just no point. Just kind of like the, you know, the, the overview, the run-through. So, but here is a great thing for you guys to just screenshot so if you don't have the full kit, you, you know, what you are looking for. So, right here, and as you can see, literally, I walk you out through step by step, like, step by step in the kit. That's why it's so freaking long. Like, at first, it was 72 pages. I've distilled it down to 34, but then I'm kind of like, I think I want to, like, it's a lot of information that I'm like, I, I was like, I kind of want to add that, but whatever. We'll see. Anyways, uh, just screenshot this so you can have. So, go line by line and literally check for incorrect name spellings, extra name variations, older unfamiliar addresses, relatives' addresses, outdated employer, um, incorrect date of birth or social security mismatches, social security number mismatches, duplicate entries. These are the things that I need you guys to look for. Make a list of everything that needs to be corrected, 'cause I want you guys to keep proper record of it, or even highlight it on your credit reports. Right? Like, that's a good practice. Highlight it on your credit reports so that you know what you are disputing and you're clear on what you want to include on your letters. So, that list turns into what you actually write on the letters. The letters templates is just plug and play at that point.

Um, again, like I told you guys, I am going to switch these two steps. This is going to be step one, and this is going to be step two, 'cause as I'm talking you guys through it, I realized that it just, it makes more logical sense for this to be step one. Never done editing, I swear.

Um, yeah. So, you should, you should be able to, to have all of that corrected within a month. Usually, it's a lot faster with, with personal information. It's not really that big of a fight. And so, yeah, I'm not really expecting you guys to be in that process much longer.

All right. So, now we go to round, like, to actual credit bureau disputes when it comes to your accounts. So, as you guys know, like, we've been following along, you guys have all three of your credit reports in front of you. We have addressed the personal information section. As I told you guys, your credit reports, although it's a lot of information, is really just five sections that I, that you really need to, to, to pay attention to. And those sections are personal information, which we just went over. And then you have your account history. This is, like, the largest section of your credit report. This is, this is the bulk of your credit disputes typically, and it's, it's the part that's, like, the most confusing, but it's the part that has the most exhaustive information when it comes to your official credit reports. This section right here, the account history section, is what sets your official credit reports apart from any credit monitoring apps. This is why having Credit Karma is not good enough to, if you want to actually challenge your credit reports and have a, have a real shot at getting them removed. It's not good enough. It's just not. They don't have enough information. I promise you, they don't, okay?

Um, and then you have collections, the collections section, which are former accounts or previous accounts that have been placed into a derogatory status. You failed to pay them. The creditor sent it to collections, right? And then you have public records. So, public records houses bankruptcy, judgments, and tax liens, but typically, you only see bankruptcies in that section. And then we have inquiries, hard inquiries and soft inquiries. I will save the rest of those, you know, for when we get to that section, because for right now, I want you to focus on the account history, right? So, this is going to be, um, the next phase, which is the trade line section. So, if you hear me say trade line, that just refers to accounts that are on your credit report. That is the official name. That's what the credit bureaus refer to them as. So, again, if I say trade lines, I'm referring to the accounts that's on your credit report.

Okay. Now, the accounts, the account history section is going to house all of your account history, literally, as what it says. So, it's going to be every credit card that you have had within the last 10 years. Um, loans, car, you know, auto loans, mortgages. If you have any line of credits, um, yo, my, my nose, it looks like my allergies just just started acting up. I don't know where it's coming from or what I'm like reacting to, but like, woo, it's like everything itches right now.

Um, what was I about to say? So, your account history section. Oh, I turned the ceiling fan on. Jesus. I need to ding on clearing. So, the account history section, also known as your trade lines, is where all of your accounts are. This is the bulk of your credit report, and it has all of the most, like, the most information. And if I was thinking, I should have had, like, a credit report that I can show you guys just to walk through. I think in the edit, I'mma add that. But this section, it will specifically have a, what do you call it? A graph, I guess. Not a graph. Uh, it's, it's like an Excel sheet of the, the historic, the, the monthly historical view. So, it'll show you if it's a credit card, it'll show you, like, how many late payments you have had. In March, you had a late payment on this account, and, you know, it'll show you the his, the payment history, right? So, that's, that's what you really need to pay attention to, okay?

So, as we are in the account history section, as you're going through all three of your credit reports, there are certain things that I want you to take, you know, write down or highlight. Highlight. So, take a screenshot of this. Oh my goodness. Mhm. Take a screenshot of that, y'all. My eyes get, I know it's like, I'm just having an allergic reaction out of nowhere. It's weird, and I don't know where it's coming from, so that's what the strange part.

Um, yeah, take a screenshot of this. So, what I want you to do on first pass, as you are going, as you are looking at the account section, I just want you to write down all, or identify rather, all of the negative accounts on your credit report. A lot of people don't really understand which accounts are considered negative. A lot, well, I would say like, some of the, one of the big, biggest questions are, are most frequently asked questions for me when, when someone is starting their own DIY credit repair process is, what, which accounts do I challenge? Like, do I just challenge all of my closed accounts? Do, like, are closed accounts bad? So, I want to, I want to be very clear in what is considered a negative account, because not every credit report, not every credit account on your credit report is going to be negative. Even if perhaps some have bad payment, or some has late payments, that doesn't automatically make the, the entire account negative, and you should, that doesn't mean that you should automatically challenge the account. So, here I went through every account that I want you to highlight or write down that, that you are going to challenge and or place on the letters that I'm going to show you in just a second, okay?

So, the number one type of account that is considered negative is obviously if it's, if it's a collection. So, every account in the collection section is, by the, by, by default, a negative account. It's a derogatory account. Or is it? Everything? It's a derogatory account. So, I need you to highlight that. So, collections are medical collections, utility, it could be utility collection, it could be telecommunications collections, like, you know, uh, AT&T or, um, Concord. So, whatever, like, cable companies and stuff like that, utility bills, credit card collections, um, um, third-party debt collectors, like, whoever is in, whatever accounts are in your, the collection section, it is bad. It is considered a negative account, and you are likely going to challenge it. We'll get there.

So, another account I want you to highlight are charged-off accounts. What are charged-off accounts? Charge, a charged-off account means that the lender gave up on ever collecting that debt. That, like, they, they gave up hope on ever collecting it. They don't, they don't believe that you will pay them back, so they have, they have legally written the account off. Um, and so after a creditor charges off an account, the account is officially closed, it can never be reopened, and they can either choose to either keep it as a charged-off account, or they can sell it to a collection agency. So, there, there is a reality in which exists that you can have a collection account and a charge-off account refer, you know, referring to the same account, okay? So, if you see that, just highlight it, or, you know, write it down, okay? By the way, a telltale sign that an, that an account is charged off is if it says, obviously, charged off, if it has a CO, if it says in the, in the notes section, profit and loss written off, or if it says bad debt in the account remarks, or even if it says transferred to recovery, all of those, those statuses are considered charged-off accounts. So, in that regard, highlight the account. All of those, I didn't mean to do that. All of those are charged-off accounts. So, in that regard, highlight it, okay?

And then I want you to highlight any serious lates. So, any account, accounts with serious lates, are accounts that has 90 days or more late payments. So, in other words, three or more consecutive late payments. So, I'm not talking about if you were late in January, you were late in April, and then maybe you were late in May. That's not three consecutive late payments. Have to have a 90 days or more late payment means that January, you have to be late, February, you have to be late, March, you have to be late. Um, and then perhaps, you know, after that, you know, April, you perhaps you were late, but it needs to be consecutive, back to back, okay? So, if that is the case, and if you have a 36, or if you have a 90 or more day late payment, highlight that for me. Highlight that account for me. Um, it doesn't necessarily mean that you're going to 100% challenge that. However, I do want you to highlight it because that account is negatively affecting your credit score and your current credit standing, and perhaps we may decide to challenge it later. Again, in this step, all we are doing is highlighting. Identifying the negative accounts. I don't need, in this step, you shouldn't be worried about, like, which accounts to, to, to challenge. You just need to highlight it, and you just need to understand which accounts that you perhaps may challenge, okay?

And then another, uh, thing I want you to highlight are any repossessions, any repossessions, or any, uh, foreclosures, okay? Those, I'll say, don't have to explain those. If, uh, a car was repossessed, or even if it was a furniture account, if it has repossessed in the account remarks, highlight that because that's a repossession. And yes, I mean, and no, it doesn't have to be a car. And no, it doesn't have to be just a car in order to be repossessed. Retail accounts and furniture accounts and stuff like that, a lot of times will be repossessed or have, or show repossessed on your, um, on your credit report. All right.

And so, then the next account that I want you guys to highlight is accounts with a past due balance. Now, as you are looking at the account section of the account history section of your credit report, there will be some accounts that are still current, like, they're, they're, they're active, like, they're open, but they're past due, right? So, obviously, this means that your current creditors, within one of your current creditors, the account is past due. I want you to highlight these, but it doesn't necessarily mean you're going to challenge it, but I want you to highlight it so, so, so that you're aware that your current creditor is reporting that you are past due, which looks horrible to lenders. Just FYI, that looks horrible to lenders, and it does, that, that, that does great damage to your borrowing power. Like, it, like, that, that is bad for you to be late on your current creditors. It's always a red flag to lenders, okay? So, just highlight that, um, because you will later decide if that's an account that you need to go ahead and, and close on your own. Um, maybe it's going to be a charge-off soon, or whatever the case. We'll deal with that later, but just highlight it.

And then another thing that I want you to highlight is any public records. So, any bankruptcies that's in, anything that's in your public records section is going to be bad. And obviously, accounts that you do not recognize. If you've never, if you don't know what, who, who, who the creditor is, what the account is, even if you don't, if you have the, the, the faintest memory of that account and you just, you just confused. Anything that you're confused about, highlight it, 'cause it may not be yours. Who knows? Don't just assume just because it's on your credit report, it's yours, okay?

So, again, I'll give you guys about 10 more seconds to screenshot this. This is just a quick key on, ne-, the, the negative accounts that's affecting your credit report that you potentially may need to, to address. Doesn't mean you need to challenge all of them, but you will need to address every single instance on here. And we'll talk about like, how, how to address them shortly, but this is just a quick key. My ceiling fan, it, yeah, it probably is dirty up. Um, I don't think I, it's, I haven't cleaned it. I haven't cleaned it. I need to buy one of them things on Amazon. Yeah, my allergies been messing, been acting up lately, anyway though.

Okay, where we at? All right. So, now that you have a running list of all the negative accounts on your credit report, then, um, now, now you can start challenging them. And then you can start challenging them. So, hold on, let me go to it. Okay, just because I want you guys to screenshot this to have for your records, um, this is just a, a quick list of what to send when you are challenging the credit bureaus. Um, acceptable forms of identification and all that. So, just have that for your record. Just screenshot that. As I was scrolling, I just thought that that would be important, so.

All right. Okay, so let's talk about, um, the very first letter that you need to send in regards to accounts on your credit reports. So, do I want to start with this one? Okay, yeah. I was going to go straight to the bureaus, but there is something that I have, I'm just going to coin it, the pre-collection window. I'mma think of a better phrase for that eventually, 'cause I, it's too many, it's too long. But there is a thing that's called the, the, the, the pre-collection or new collection window. Fresh collection window, let's just call it that. Now, I'mma show y'all as I'm explaining, 'cause this is just easier to show. So, as you are going through your credit report, I want you to pay, as you are going through your credit report, I want you to pay attention to, to any new collections that you have on your credit report. And by new, I mean, like, if there is any collections that has popped up within the last 30 days on your credit report, I, we need to address that before we get started on, like, the other disputes, okay? So, any fresh collections under 30 days that you have recently, uh, that has recently popped up on your credit report, and you do not have a collection notice that you received in the mail prior to that ending up in a, prior to that ending up on your credit report, you need to challenge it. You need to send a debt validation letter to it, okay?

So, a debt validation letter will only come into, like, you, you only 30% of people who repair their own credit will ever, will need to send this letter, but it, I, I think it's important for you guys to have, okay? So, if you have any fresh collections and you don't have any collection notices, you, like, you were not forewarned about that account prior to it arriving on your credit report, you were not giving a legal window to dispute it or refute it before they placed it on your credit report, it needs to be, uh, validated. You need to force the collection agencies to validate it, okay?

If you have any pending collections, which brings me, which, which, which, which brings me to my next point. What is a pending collection? How do you know a collection is pending? And what do you do about it? Now, let me just tell you guys. So, another benefit to getting your official credit report is the fact that you will be able to, to, to intercept, um, pending collections, okay? There is a telltale sign that you have a pending collection. Let me start off with, with the most basic, um, way that you can tell if a collection is pending, right? If not everything is nefarious. So, obviously, if you have a collection notice, if you've recently received a collection notice from a collection agency, and they're saying, "Hey, does, does this debt belong to you? Or we have a collection that we believe belongs to you, and you have 30 days to refute it or request validation of it before we send it to the credit bureaus." So, obviously, if you received a recent collection notice in the mail, then you notice you have a pending collection. So, that's, that's that goes without saying. But,

another way that you can tell if you, if you have a pending collection by looking at your official credit reports is if you go to the soft inquiry section of your credit report, and you go over your soft inquiry, and you see that there is a collection agency that, that has requested access to your credit report. So, there are only two reasons why collection agencies will request access to your credit report. Anytime a company legally requests access to your credit, I mean, anytime a company requests access to your credit report, the credit bureaus has to, um, notify you. They have, they have to tell you, or they have to place the information on your credit report. They have to tell you, uh, who, who was seeking your credit report, who they released your credit report to, and also why. This is, this can be found in your soft inquiries. Remember, your soft inquiries are not your hard inquiries. Your soft inquiries don't cause your score to decrease, nor can any other lender see it. It's literally just inside information for you, for your records only. And a lot of times, we ignore the soft inquiries 'cause we know that it does not affect or impact our score, but actually, the soft inquiry tells a, a, a, an important story. I don't care who's looking at it. So, you should always be aware of who's looking at your credit report. You should always be, um, tuned into the, you, you should always scroll down and look at who's looking at your credit report. And the only way that you can find this is in your soft inquiries.

So, if there's a collection agency in your soft inquiry, and they are not already on your credit report, or you know that, again, there's only two reasons that a collection agency is going to look at your credit report. One, to find out where you, like, to find out where you live and who you, you know, how to contact you. Your contact information. They, they're looking at the personal information section of your credit report, and they're going to say, "Okay, we have, we didn't have this number previously, or here's the address so we can contact them." But, the other reason that a collection agency is looking at your credit report is because they have to, legal, remember I told you guys that in order for them to place a collection on your credit report, they have to send the credit bureaus the account, and they have to say, "Hey, this is the, an account that we believe belongs to Lashonda, and based on the information that you're reporting about her, we can match the information to her to, to see that it's hers, right?" So, they have to verify that it's you by way of matching your personal information to the information that they already have on, on, on their, you know, within their records. So, there's only two reasons they're looking. Either to place a collection on your credit report, or to buy a collection that they believe belongs to you, okay?

So, anytime you see a collection agency in your soft inquiry, that should always get your antenna, antennas to spike up because why are you looking at my report? If you're already on my credit report, the only reason why you're looking is you're trying to find, like, new information, see if I have a new employer, see what's the best time that you could potentially contact me for me to pay you back, you know, whatever. Or you have a collection that, that's on the way, okay?

So, what do you do with this information? If you see a collection agency, if you, if you see a soft inquiry from a collection agency that's not already on your credit report, what I want you to do is immediately, even if you don't have confirmation that they're on their way, you should always, um, like, you should always presume that they are if you see them on your credit report. Send them a debt validation, okay? Send them a debt validation immediately. I don't care if maybe they, it never reaches your report, and maybe they determine that the account was not yours. None of that is your business, or you, you don't need to determine that. The only, you should automatically assume that if they're there, they have information that matches to you. It's 2026. They have companies like LexisNexis. Trust me when I say, it's rare that they're mistaking your identity. Trust me, they're not just looking to, to confirm that they're right. No, honey. They, they know that they're right, and they're there because they're just trying to go through the legal process to place it on your report. Don't assume that, that they're not. If they're there, serve them with a debt validation letter. How do you serve them with a debt validation letter? You just send them a letter. You send them a letter.

Now, oh, so, send your debt validation letter, and I'll show you in a second of that letter. Um, a debt validation typically takes 4 to 6 weeks. They can only respond by saying, "Hey, we got your debt validation, and we're going to cease collections." You, in fact, you'll find that, uh, 30% of your creditors, if you catch them within this, this dunning period, you know, this fresh period, you will, they're going to respond and say, "We ain't, we ain't, we're not going to collect on this." Most collection agencies don't actually have the information that they need to validate the debt. Even if it is your debt, that doesn't mean just because it is your account that the collection agency has all of the legal required information to validate the debt. Do not assume that they do. Trust me when I say, you miss a unique opportunity by not sending a debt validation letter for the three account types that we just discussed: fresh collections, um, recent, recent collections, soft inquiry collection agencies looking on your report, or if you've never, if you know for a fact that you've never received a collection notice from the creditor, and they're already on your credit report, and it's been under a year, okay? 'Cause if they never sent you a collection notice, they, then they, then they did not pre-forewarn you, which is illegal. They have to let you know that they have an account. They have to give you a chance to, to validate it before they play, before they send it to the credit bureaus, okay?

All right, so, take a screenshot of this because one of the things that is so frustrating with companies in this debt validation period, collection agencies, is they know the, the problem is, they know that even though a lot of people will send a debt validation letter now, they know that a lot of people don't actually know their rights. They don't actually know what to expect or what is legally considered validation. So, if you are sending, if, if you're here tonight, you need to understand that there is, there is a difference between them legally validating, validating the account and making you believe that they did. No, if there, there are rules and regulations, and you must ensure that they are following the law and not infringing on your, your personal and consumer rights. So, uh, screenshot this 'cause I'm not going to go over the full list. I was, but y'all, y'all can read. Y'all ain't slow. Y'all are not slow.

Now, this is the screen that I thought was on. Okay. So, but, but just to explain, this screen is what to include in the letter. I don't have to go over that. Please just read it. Please, 'cause we already at our end. All right. Here is what counts as validation. Is it showing up? Here's what counts as legal validation and what it does not count. And I found it very important to, to be very specific with this because let me tell you what, uh, 99% of creditors going to do, they're going to send you a bill. They're going to send you, if you challenge, and let's just say a, a old Sprint account, they're going to just send you a bill, your final bill, and they're going to say, "Hey, here's our, here's the validation. We validated the account." No, ma'am. That is not legal validation. Understand that when you send a debt validation request, it's infringing on the FDCPA, okay? Which is the, the governing body that regulates debt collectors. Section 809, subsection B. That, that, that's what your entire debt validation letter is infringed upon, and there is a very specific set of rules and guidelines that they have to follow. Number one, the collection notice should always include, well, y'all can read that part, but what's important is what counts as validation. The collector must provide all of these. Notice that I said all, meaning a lot of times they will have maybe two of the five, or two of the four, three of the four. If they cannot provide all four of these things, then it is not considered legally validated.

Number one, an original signed contract or agreement, uh, or the original signed contract, a copy, obviously, of the original signed contract with your, with your creditor. So, if this is a collection agency, they are a third party in the, in, in the, um, situation. You don't have a contract directly with the collection agency. You did not sign up or apply for credit with ABC Collection. No, they're just a third-party byproduct of the, um, contract that you had with Sprint, right? So, you don't have a one-to-one contract agreement with the collection agency. That doesn't mean that they can legally collect the account. No. However, it does mean that they have to, obviously, be have been sold this account by the original creditor. Therefore, that, that, uh, contract would have had to be, um, transferred over to them. They should have a record. They have to have a record because they have to prove that the account, like, that you actually held the account in the first place, okay? Again, even if it is your account. I cannot stress this enough. A lot of people say, "Well, yeah, I already know I had that account, so it's no, it's no point to ask for validation." Oh, you are mistaken. That is a mistake. Do not assume just because it's your account that they actually can validate it. No, ma'am. Absolutely not. Most collection agencies will buy bulk debt. They will literally buy millions and and thousands of of debt at the same time in bulk, and most of the accounts don't even have all the information that's required. They literally buy these things for pennies on the dollar. So, it's not, it's nothing personal. They didn't just buy your account. No, no, no. They bought your account in a sea of probably millions of other accounts, and they literally go through to see which ones they can collect on. And that's just how it works, okay? So, do not assume just because it was your account that they have all of the information, okay?

Um, they also need to have the complete payment history from the original creditor showing all payments and charges. Why? Because they need to have an itemized list. You need to be able to tell if they have added interest on top of whatever your original creditor has, has, um, stated that that you owe. The problem with sending a bill is all it shows is the balance at the time that the account was closed. It does not, it does not show anything else. That, that only shows that the account existed, but it doesn't show that the charges are accurate. Um, it doesn't show your relation to it at all. Like, 'cause I'm telling you, they will usually send a bill. And for a long time, they've been getting away with just sending a bill because they know that, okay, that looks okay. It kind of looks like they validated the debt. Like, they sent me a bill. Most consumers are not really going to challenge that, right? Um, so anyways, they need to have proof, proof the debt was legally transferred to this, this collector. So, again, they're a third party. You didn't sign a contract with them. They do have the right to collect on it, how, if the, the, the original creditor transferred or sold the account to them, but they need to show that transaction. A lot of times, they won't be able to do this, especially when they buy it in, in bulk. Um, breakdown of the current balance and itemized principal, uh, interest, and fees. You need to know if they're adding additional fees on top of what the original creditor has proclaimed that you, you, you, uh, have. All right, so this is what's considered, this is what counts as validation, and then what does not count. All right? Y'all can screenshot this, but this is just the responses, what to expect. They either, a collection agency will either delete the account, or the, the collection, the collection account from your credit report, and they'll send you a letter and say, "Hey, we cease collection." Sometimes they don't even send you a letter, um, but you have, you will see that the, the collection account will drop off your credit report. Then you know that they, they've ceased collection. Or they can say inadequate, uh, validation. So, they can say, "Hey, we received your letter, but you have waited too long," or, "You know, uh, we validated already with the credit bureau, right?" Or they can say, or, or they can, or they can respond with, with all of the required information. They can respond and say, "Hey, here's A, B, C, and D." And in that case, you have to just accept that is, that is legal validation. Just as they, just as you have consumer rights, they also have rights. So, they can actually legally validate the account. That doesn't mean the challenge is over. That just means that they have passed this step. So, does that validation, like, is it, it doesn't work for them, then you'll, we'll have to move forward and challenge them in another way indirectly with the credit bureau. Remember, the debt validation letter is sent directly to the credit agency. So, it's not sent to the credit bureaus. I meant to say that. Actually, I will say that when I show you the letter, obviously.

Okay? Here is, um, the instructions for the letters that I'm about to show you guys. You can screenshot it if you want, um, but it's basically the same thing that I said with the personal information. I actually include kind of like this, uh, in front of every letter, so. Yeah. Okay. Here is the debt validation first letter. Um, is it going to show it all? All right, so I'm going to crop out, like, the top. You guys already know that the top, you just add your full name and then the collection agency. By the way, this is the only letter that you need to certify. If you're, if you're mailing letters directly to the collection agency, it's best to send it certified. When you're sending it to the bureaus, you don't have to. But with collection agencies, especially when it's a debt validation letter, um, I would personally spend the additional two to three dollars to send it certified. I just would recommend that, okay? So, I'mma cut off the first part so you can see the full letter. Um, and here it is. This is it. The only thing really you have to change in this one is, like, include the account number that's on your credit report. If it, if it's already on your credit report. If you don't have the account number, then just delete this. Just delete this line if you don't, oops, if you don't have the account number, okay?

Um, oh, this is supposed to be red, but last four of your social and then your name printed, okay? When you are mailing letters to the collection agency, do not include a copy. You don't have to include a copy of your ID. You just need to put the last four digits of your social, or if you have the account number, just put that. You don't owe them, uh, a copy of your ID, as you do the credit bureaus. And it's, it, it says that on this. Um, but just to verbally say, you don't, you don't have to send your full social security number. Like, no, they don't need to know none of that. Yeah.

What, um, do you have a book that covers all the information that you covered there? No, I don't, I don't have an official book out. I have a lot of webinars, videos, but I do want to work on a book. Actually, the, the kit, my new kit, I actually want to, um, create like a physical product, like a, like a, um, a workbook. Cuz I, I, I printed out myself, and I just find it easier, like, with a physical copy, but I'll see. I don't know. I don't, uh, what was I planning to do? I mean, or say. Okay, so that is the first debt validation letter, okay? And then did I, was I just showing y'all two or one? Uh, yeah, I was, I was showing y'all this one. All right, so here's the follow-up. I, I kind of always just include follow-ups to all the letters because you just always want to be prepared on if they respond back in a way that is unfavorable, and you always want to have a legal response. So, again, I'mma cut off the first part so you can see the full letter. But this is just a, a follow-up to the letter that I just showed you guys. Debt validation follow-up. And then the next phase, or the next step that we're going to discuss is challenging, like, those negative accounts with the credit bureaus, and then that'll be all for the first session for today, okay?

I'm, I'm thinking about it. I, what, like, I have, it's funny because I, I have like, I've been writing a book, but I just don't know, I don't know. I kind of, I feel like I always like overthink when it comes to it. But I have, I have been like preparing it. But I'm just like, "Uh, I'm so like picky on, like, for example, this DIY kit. I promise you, I have literally, the title used to be until today, the title of this kit like in my Canva was 2025 DIY kit because I've been working on it for so long, and I literally was like, I look at it today and I'm like, "Well, I guess I'll change it to 20, 2026 now." Um, that I'm finally, like, they're finally going to see it because I, I just, I, I change, I'm so particular with like the wording, the, like, you know, I'm just, yeah. I got to get over that. But, um, what was I going to say? Okay.

So, that is a debt validation letter. And again, you would only send that in three scenarios, okay? That, and, and that's before you challenge the credit bureaus. So, now let's move on to challenging your negative accounts, okay? Let me scroll down. Where is it? Okay. Um, oh, y'all ain't even looking at my screen. Okay, so remember in, what was, what was that? I, I don't even remember the step, but we were talking about, hold on, y'all. We were talking about what accounts are considered

negative, and I'll show you a [snorts] copy of that again in just a second. But in terms of actually challenging um the accounts. I'm trying to uh Where is it at? Where is it at? Trying to find I had a a something that I wanted to show you guys. Give me a second. >> [snorts] >> Okay, uh cuz I'm I'm trying to find this link for you guys cuz I'mma let the people that are watching this live I'mma let you guys download something, but I'm trying to What um Let me maybe it's Dropbox instead of Drive. Hold on, y'all. Give me a second. Let me make sure y'all don't see me signing in. All right. Um All right, I'mma I'mma put a link on the screen that you guys will be Don't make me authenticate. Come on. Okay, please let it be in Drive. Oh, okay. I You know what? I know where I can find it. I know where I can find it. Right here.

All right. If you're in the community if you're in the Credit Academy community, um it's already here. But because it's already been like an hour, I don't want to have to go through each letter, and I just like it's probably easier for you guys to just have it, you know? Um and plus a lot of these letters are long, so it's going to be a little tricky to show on the screen. So like I will show it, but yeah. Especially this first letter is long. Okay, give me a second. I'm just going to put the link. I forgot you can put links now. Mhm. You know what? Let me just show the first two letters and then I'll do the link cuz I don't it's going to take me a little while. So, I'm just going to screen I'm going to share it how I've been doing. Um load. Why is it not loading?

All right. So, this is for specifically pertaining to the collection accounts that you're going to challenge. And then in the next phase we're going to talk about those accounts that we were just talking about when I was like, "Okay, you don't don't necessarily think that you're challenging everything that we we you know put on this list." Today we're just you specifically these are for collections. Okay, so if you have like accounts in your collection section of your credit report I want to get you guys started on sending a round one and a round two. And then cuz that's going to get you through phase three. And then phase four, five, and six will pick up because there's a lot of like specific information that I want to talk about and it's not like the first two rounds are are just I don't want to say throw away rounds, but they're just rounds that like you need to legally send to cover you for future rounds, if that makes sense. Okay? Um and they're considered like low-hanging fruit or like account accuracy disputes. Like literally just disputing information that like anybody would would dispute. And it's the accounts that you can expect to fall off in like in these rounds are accounts that again, just low-hanging fruit. Just low-hanging fruit. Accounts that collection agencies are are not too pressed to like challenge you on. They're like they they don't have most of the time it's because they don't have legal validation to challenge it. You know, or or validate it rather. And yeah.

So, I just don't like how this one is showing. I don't know why it's not showing like the rest. Hold on. Um All right. So, I can't make it smaller. It's weird. All right, I'm just going to do it like that then. And by the way, again, if you're in the community just you can go download it. Just go download it. Just go down. All right. >> [snorts] >> All right, tell me Now tell me what y'all can see cuz now it's like loading and it's not just going right to it. Which is weird. Which is weird. You know what? I'm just going to have to show y'all this one. It's fine. All right, so this is a round one. I just pulled up a a different one cuz for some reason that was not showing. Where y'all at? See if y'all can see that. I see why is it showing you you you It's like why is it showing like that? Okay. Let me Who's doing good? I was doing good with the technology and then it wanted to act up, but you know what? I think I know what I we can do. Um I don't work I don't even know what that screen is. Oh. Okay, hold on. Let me just link. You know what? Let me just take a screenshot and then see if I can just pull that up. It's probably easier. All right, now Can y'all see that? I don't know how to change it to the screenshot. See, it's like fro it it's like frozen on one page. It's Let me see. Um All right. Can y'all Can y'all see that? It's like over to the side. I don't know. Like why is it not letting me Just make it easier. Just screenshot this, y'all. Cuz I don't know why it's like stuck. My other thing is like stuck. It won't let me scroll on that the last browser that I was on. >> [snorts] >> All right. If y'all rush the playback tomorrow, I'mma editing the correct view just cuz this is annoying. Um but for now it's essentially the same thing. It's just that the first round. And then I'mma show you guys the second round. But I got to show you in like a presentation view cuz for some reason the the kit is not lo like it's not scrolling. It's froze. Maybe I can [snorts] try to go back to it. But just screenshot this for now. Okay? And then um maybe even tomorrow I can just review these again. And then just screenshot this one, too. Cuz this is the the follow-up. Yes, I know I got to chill. We're not going to let the technology stop us today. You know, we're just going to have to roll with the punches. Um the important thing is these are just again round one, round two letters that you would challenge all of your um put all place all of your collection accounts on there. Okay? And you can place them all on here. The one that was in the kit though it's going to bother me cuz this is a little old, but it's I mean it's still effective. If this were if this were the later rounds then I wouldn't I would be like, "No, we got to wait until the other one load." But these two letters they say the same thing. It's just I I you know, turned the turn you know, did design them differently. So, it's more aesthetic why I'm you know, I'mma know it right now. But like that's not important because these two letters they're still the same. They're worded the same same laws are used. So, that's the important part. Just pretend that like you know, you have the red letters where you're supposed to change and all of that. And then you know, in the playback maybe I'll update it. Okay?

All right. Um so, that's rounds one and round two. Now I am let me see. See, I I even went back to it and it's not loading. That is the strangest thing. Okay, I'm not going to get stuck on that tonight. >> [snorts] >> But let me just ask this. So, those are those are the three phases. So, we went through personal information tonight. We went through the pre or fresh collection window. >> [snorts] >> And then we went through the first two rounds of challenging collection accounts. Now, when it comes to charge-off accounts, when it comes to repossessions, when it comes to accounts with the late payments the 90 days or or more late payments, there are special ways that I prefer to challenge them or I would recommend that you guys challenge them. And those are in phases four, five, and six as I told you guys. Just to know give a know back to the beginning. See if it'll let me scroll up, I guess. I don't know why. Dang it, it's not even letting me go back to that. But hopefully you guys still have the phase map that I showed you guys. Like I showed you guys, it is six phases that I would recommend. And um we got the rounds one through three or phases one through three tonight. Now, tomorrow night Friday night um I hope you I hope y'all going to be available because phases three, four, and five I I already assumed that it's going to be a longer live because it's way more detailed and way more specific. Um And so I I specifically save that for tomorrow night. And so again, phases one through three is going to get you through two rounds two two three rounds of the credit bureaus and it's going to get the low-hanging fruit. That's what it's really aimed for, but the advanced disputing starts in four or five and six, okay? I can't even scroll back up to show you guys what we were talking about earlier. Um so just rewind the video and then yeah, cuz I can I was going to kind of go back over what we went over today, but I can't even scroll up for some reason. The thing is saying error. Um Canva Canva's messing up for everyone right now. Oh, it is? Is that what it is? Cuz like yeah, why did it just start? It's weird. See if y'all can go to Canva. Like it started showing my letters like I don't know. It's weird, but we're not going to trip on that cuz I only needed to get you guys through phases three phases tonight, which is my original plan and we we got through that. But I'm I'm actually glad it didn't do this tomorrow. So tomorrow I know to download it though. I won't depend on like live Canva. I'll just download it and then show it that way. Um but any questions so far? Any credit questions? Anything you're confused about? Like we could just spend you know, the remaining time doing a Q&A. Clarifications, anything. Tomorrow's going to be seven. Your screen frozen also? Yeah, I don't So has it been doing that the whole live? See I I thought it was just my computer because my computer started like glitching and I'm like, okay, maybe it's not affecting their viewer experience, but it's me. >> [snorts] >> But so it's freezing to you guys as well? Yes, yes, damn. Was it freezing to y'all on on TikTok? Dang it. Now I'm good. >> [snorts] >> Okay, um I'm going to just let oof. Okay. Yeah, I don't know what just happened. I'm like I I I was like, okay, maybe I'm hoping like y'all wasn't getting the freezing, >> [snorts] >> but I guess y'all was. Child, it was freezing on me too and I thought I was tripping and I'm like I was trying to stall. I'm like, okay, let me just let me just talk and you know, maybe it's going to catch back up cuz it just kept doing it, but I guess it was affecting y'all too. I don't know what's going on. >> [snorts] >> For the past 10 minutes. Okay, yeah, that's that's about how long it was doing it to me. I think y'all could tell when I started like stalling. Whole time I could my screen went black. So I'm trying to like let me just talk through it and you know, maybe it's going to clear back on and it just was acting weird. So yeah, I just was like, okay, I don't know what's going on. We're not going to we we're not going to worry about it. Um because at the beginning I think it was fine it was fine for me at least at the beginning. Y'all didn't see the last 15 minutes Oh, the last two letters? You [snorts] know what? Let me just show y'all that again real quick. TikTok for some reason is not freezing. I don't know. I don't know. Dang I got to exit out. Oh, here you go. Let me see if I can show y'all. This the round one letter for your collection accounts, only collections. Do not put any charge-offs on this letter, okay? Only collections, okay? This is the round one letter to remove inaccurate credit information. So again, low-hanging fruit. Just put your collections on there. Do not just I I kind of tell people don't really expect deletions the first two three rounds. They're just procedural. Um but but but you know, you guys know if you've went through this process before like you will still get some, but it just expect like the low-hanging fruit. Like it's not going to be your hard hitters, the ones that probably going to be a headache, you know, this is really just to kind of chop off the low-hanging fruit, get the easy wins early. Um and then as we prepare to hit them harder, okay? Um but these letters are important. They're they're equally as important and you will need to have them if you advance your disputes later on down the line. You need to have a record of sending these. So please don't skip them. Please don't don't just try to go to advanced disputing. You won't have a successful credit repair process. It is it is it is a reason why you need to send each letter because again, it's just legally procedural. Like you need to have these things on record and don't like skip. Just don't skip. Here's the first one and then here's the second one. >> [snorts] >> You know what I think it is? I just thought about it. Yeah, my camera is getting warm. I wonder if it's my camera that was doing that. No, maybe it's not the camera cuz my computer was doing it too. I don't know. I think I probably just had too much too much hooked up and we've and I've been live for two hours. I find it like after about like that hour and a half um yeah, it just start it just start messing up. So I'll be trying to keep the lives within an hour, but child y'all know I talk too much. I talk too much, you know. So make sure you guys are following because tomorrow is I'm not going to say more important because everything we talked about today was super important and it it but and it's information that you need to know. If you're in the Credit Academy group, you will have the information that the sections that we talked about today of the kit, it'll be available once this is available for replay, which should be within the next 12 hours, okay? Um cuz I'll just include it in a in a link. If you're not in the Credit Academy community, click the link in my bio and join us. Uh there is a free section of the community and then we got a VIP section. So just come join us, okay? That's the point. So you can so you're notified of that and actually in the email to what when I send you guys the playback it'll have the link to download the section that we've discussed so that you can just have it. So you don't you know, but you don't have to again child y'all screenshot it. You just copy and paste it. It really it honestly don't make me a difference. Um but one favor that I will ask is that even if you're not watching on YouTube, just go over to my YouTube and like the video. It just does great, you know, it's just better for the algorithm so they can recommend the videos so they can push the videos out to more people and that's that's the only thing that I just that's the only favor I would say. Just please Or actually even on TikTok, just like the video. Just like the video. Like the video for you girl if you learned something any takeaways today and you are looking forward to tomorrow um like the video for me. Just like the video. It don't, you know, take you two seconds. Just do do do. Let the let the algorithm know you like this content so they can push it out to more people so more people in 2026 can leave 2026 with great credit, okay? So again, this whole series DIY repairing your own credit is built and designed to take you from first step all the way through the process, okay? So there is a six-phase process that I have designed um and built around doing it yourself credit repair based on my professional experience in this industry. I'm a board-certified credit specialist. Um [clears throat] and yeah, so I just want to make it easier for you and um unveiling the new DIY kit, which I am showing you guys. But tomorrow we will we will go through phases four, five, and six. We will start at 7:30. >> [clears throat] >> I'm losing my voice right now anyway, so it's about is time. Um we start at 7:30. And tomorrow just kind of expect to probably be here two and a half two and a half hours, you know, cuz those last three phases are are just it's a lot more to it, okay? Again no, it's not the same six-step step process as like the last letters. It's not it's it's not No, it's not it's different letters. I was going to go into a whole explanation, but it's no point. No, it's not the same. Not the same. Not even the same the kit that that you're viewing today is is not even on a website. I haven't even publicly released it. Like literally, this is the first unveiling of it. I've been working on it for so freaking long, but I think it's time. I think it's time. Um yeah. So the replay will be on YouTube. The YouTube channel is Shaunda Martin. Again, my main platform now is is the Credit Academy community. Please join us. Links in all of my bios um on all of the platforms. And actually let me put it on the screen really quick. If you do want to join, go to member.roadto750.net, but it's in it's linked in all of my bio. It's freezing again on YouTube. Okay, that's Yeah, like I think it's cuz it's so long. But I will be back tomorrow. Um shout out to you. Thank you Spizy. I will be back tomorrow. It froze again. Okay, let me I'm going to end it. Y'all I don't know why it's freezing now. Central time, yes. So I will see you guys to