Transcription
I've just bought this GT3 RS because Porsche have refused to fix it. From the outside, this GT3 RS looks immaculate. Who can say no to a GT3 RS? But it's what lies in the engine bay that made this car so cheap.
There seems to be a little bit of leakage on the floor. This car used to have a full manufacturer warranty, which covered nearly everything on the car. But for some reason, when the previous owner took it into Porsche with an engine problem, they voided the warranty, leaving the previous owner with a 3 RS that doesn't run or drive.
Now, I want to solve the problem broken. Fix it. It's not meant to be like that, guys. And take it back to Porsche to try and regain that warranty. And we've got our inspection back. But this is not going to be as easy as I first thought.
Why is the oil on the floor? Um, at this point, we don't know.
So, here's the situation. I wouldn't have bought this GT3 RS if I didn't think it was going to be an absolute bargain and a steal. This car has been looked after so well, which the car has been fully PPFed. It's a really, really good condition 991 GT3 RS. Like even inside like everything's been really well looked after. Everything's original. I think the roll cage has been wrapped. Other than that, the car is is pretty much perfect. But of course, there's something seriously wrong with the engine and all we know is that it doesn't run. And that's about it cuz we picked it up from a repossession auction.
The first step, I think, is just to get the car in the ramp and see how bad the engine is. Because if the engine is seriously bad, then it goes from being a bargain to not so much. Now, when I try to start the car, I can hear the starter motor turning over. So, I don't think it's that. So, before we go any further, I wanted to get it up in the ramp to see if there was anything obvious that's stopping this car from starting.
Ooh. Any good? Very wet here. Are you ready? H Is there any metal fragments on here? Look at that. That is horrid. It's thick as oak, isn't it? Yeah. So far, it's only got an oil leak. There's nothing obvious we can see at all underneath the car, apart from a little oil around the sump plugs. So, I guess so far so good. What what we really hope is that the gear if if the engine's bad, we're hoping the gearbox is good because if this if but they're both bad then then this is no longer any good.
Okay, so I just had my hand on this unplug and Oh, that's good. You can just loosen it. It's finger tight. What about this one? Oh, that is also finger size. Someone's been here before then. Someone's got a bit. There's no way you have two sump plugs loose. Someone's been here before.
So, do you think the oil is just dripping out the sump plugs because they're loose and you've been trying to start it and it's pushing the oil out? Possibly. Potentially. Yeah. So, we might be good. Should we take them out and see what oil's left in the engine? Yeah. Because if there's loads of oil left in the engine, then those sump plugs were left loose by someone and that's the reason why it's blown up. I don't know. You can't. Oh. Oh. Oh. A bit. A bit.
Okay. What else could have happened? Timing could have gone completely there because um that explains why it won't crank. Might not be that timing could have jumped. And when we remove the other sump plug, again, not much oil come out of that either. So far, nothing obvious. Check the oil filter out. See if there's any metal inside that. All we know about this car is that the previous owner stopped paying his finance because Porsche voided his warranty when supposedly he had a problem with the engine.
Crazy, does it? Why won't it crank? If you look here, you know, on your lower arm here, this side, you are meant to have a nut on the end of the bolt. Okay. If you go this side, there is no thread nor no nut. Let me see. That is gone. That is not going to drive very well. Oh, yeah. So, there is signs that someone's been here before, but we can't find any reason at the minute as to why Porsche has voided the warrant or the problem with the engine. So, it looks like we got to investigate further.
Oh, look at that straight away. No sweat. Yeah. Yeah. Go on. Go on. Yes, it worked. And to investigate further, we've got to remove the wheels because now we're going to try and get to the spark plugs. Two e torxs there and there. We should get to spark plugs. Before we go any further, I'm going to remove all six spark plugs. And maybe by removing these, it will give us some clues as to what's going on inside that engine. But the first spark plug looked fine, and so did the second. Again, very wet, but not smashed to a million pieces. I continue removing all the spark plugs on the right hand side of the engine and Leon removed all the spark plugs on the left hand side of the engine. Remember these are six cylinder engines. There's three cylinders on each side as they call it a flat six. But when we got all the plugs out, none of them gave any clues as to why this engine wasn't turning over.
Load up the camera. I would ring Porsche at this point and see if they got any information about it, but it's 10 past 6, so they're not going to be open. Let's see if we can find this out ourselves because at the minute there's no evidence of anything. With the spark plugs out, we can put this camera down the cylinder and see if we can see any damage inside there. But again, on each cylinder on the right hand side of the engine, it all look pretty good. Nothing really untoward. What about the left side? Looked like a little bit of oil maybe going past the piston ring. Wo. Yeah. Right. Okay. The only thing I can think then is put oil in it, put a battery on it, crank it with no spark plugs in and see if it'll turn. Yeah. Cuz then there's no compression or anything. And if it don't turn, then big problem. Then there's a big problem. Yeah.
So, the sump plugs are going back in. And then we're going to put some oil in the engine. And next time when we turn over the engine, because there's no spark plugs in there, there should be no compression. That is tight. So, it should be easier to turn it over. So, we're bringing the car down. And now, time to add oil. 7.5 L. Now, if we pour this in and it starts coming out, then we know we've got a problem. The car takes 7 1/2 L. And we're going to pour that in now. And maybe after we pour this oil in, we'll find out the reason why it barely had any in it in the first place. But looking underneath, there was no leaks.
So, are we expecting now for it to crank completely fine? If it cranks now completely fine, we need we're I'm going to put a battery on it, then I might put the spark plugs back in and try it again. New battery, guys. And look, I got a genuine one because if it's not genuine and we try and get our Porsche approved repair on this and Porsche warranty, we're going to fail because we've not got a genuine battery. And they do check that. So, I got a genuine one. It was only 95 quid. All right. The first time I tried to turn the car over with the key, we had a jumper pack on the front because the old battery was completely dead. Just to eliminate that the jumper pack didn't have enough power, I have bought a new battery. And if we've got any hope on getting our warranty for this car, at the end of the video, we've got to replace everything with genuine Porsche parts. That's what I've done.
Liam, predictions. I think it's going to crank and it's going to sound good. And we're going to put the spark plugs back in, coil packs back in, crank it again, and it's going to start. That confident? That confident? What do you think, Matt? I honestly have no idea, but I do think it's going to crank. There's nothing in there suggesting it shouldn't crank unless the timing's out. Or because there was no oil, it's seized up a little bit. Whatever. Let's try it. So, no spark plugs are in it. New batteries on from Porsche. Let's see what we get. Refill coolant. So, there's no coolant. There still haven't We still haven't solved that issue yet, are we? Into park. Here we go. You're joking. There's no way. That cranked really good. There's no way. It's just a battery. Did anything come out? No. Do it again. The engine actually turned over. There's no leaks. Yeah, that's good. Oh, no. There's no way. That's so good. for the bargain. No, there's no I can't. There's no way. It's too It's too good to be true. If if if we put those plugs back in, there's still there's still the issue of there was loose sump plugs and no coolant. That's still It ain't going to be It ain't going to be just plugs. But that crank's way good. Absolutely. Could it literally have just been a dead battery? Surely not. Can't believe it. We're putting it back in and it's going to start 100%. I honestly was expecting a hole in the block. That's what I was expecting. Yeah, this is odd so far, isn't it?
So, with there being nothing obvious, I was just going to clean up the spark plugs that we've just took out and then put them back in and try again. Right, original plugs going back in. And now I'm going to put the spark plugs in this side. There's got to have been a reason why this car was so cheap and why Porsche voided the warranty. But there is a chance I could have got very lucky.
If this starts up and runs really good, then I'll buy everyone dinner. You hungry? Nando, I'm in. Can I be in? Yeah, sure. Yes. What? You and it sounded a bit different with the spark plugs in, didn't it? Yeah. Go again. Feel like it would have started up by now. No, no. Just everything needs a prong, didn't it? Oh, there's a little bit at the end then. Better than it was a minute ago. I think try again. No. No. Keep going. The more you do it, the better it's going to get. I really want Nando to do it. I can get you. It I think it's the timing like you know like that. Don't It's not cranking. Nice. It definitely don't sound like it's cranking good.
So, as most of you will know, there's four strokes on an engine. The first stroke is the intake stroke where the intake valves open up, suck a load of air into the cylinder, and when the piston's on the way back up, the valves closed to allow the piston to compress that air that's just been sucked in. When the piston's right at the top of the cylinder, fuel gets injected into it, and the spark plug ignites that compressed air and the fuel, pushing the piston back down on its power stroke. Then the next time the piston comes back up, the exhaust valves open and get rid of all that burnt gas sending it out of the exhaust. Now, in order for this to all work, the crankshaft at the bottom of the engine has got to be in time with the cam shafts, which open up the valves at the top. This is called timing. And if the timing is out, then that fuel and compressed air isn't going to fire. Alongside that, if we don't get a spark, then it's not going to fire. And if we don't get fuel, then it's not going to fire. Everything needs to work at perfect timing.
Do you know the only other thing? This was in the car. It was It was on the seat. It was It was on the seat when we got it. This fuse was sat on the passenger seat when we picked up the car. I didn't really think much of it when we first got it, but now I'm thinking, has this been removed stopping power going to the fuel or even the spark? So, now I'm just checking up to see where that fuse has actually come from. that left hand side B5 is missing a fuse. Yeah. And on this that I'm reading here, B5 is a 20 amp fuel pump relay. Fuel pump relay. Yeah. I've just got the same. So if that's not in, that ain't getting no fuel. Why have they done that? Plug it in and start it up. And we're going to I've got the same look. B5 fuel pump relay. And which one's B5?
So now we're going to put this fuse back into where we think it should have gone. And maybe now the car will get fuel. This is weird because that fuse was just sitting in the car. It was on that passenger seat here when we got it. See what happens now. Porsche center. Look, it's been to Porsche. This don't make sense. See, if we plugged in the diagnostic tool, it would have told us no fuel. Mhm. Here we go. I told you. Is that running good or not? Yeah. Yeah, it sounds right. Why does it sound okay? or I don't know that there's only Oh, is it misfiring? Sounds like it. Oh, it's misfiring. It's misfiring. Got a flash engine light. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
We can see the flashing engine light, meaning it's misfiring. So, now we can probably find out the reason why this car got taken to Porsche in the first place. Okay, it's definitely got a misfire cuz it stinks of fuel now. But someone's moved that fuel pump relay. Why someone took that out? The fuel pump fuse. Obviously to stop someone from starting it and wrecking the engine probably. Should we compression test it? Well, first we'll plug the diagnostic cuz we be able to see what cylinder is not firing hopefully. And then compress take the spark plug out. See if the spark plug's firing. Then we compression test it. So far it's doing doing all right. We skipped a few steps and then went back and then there was the obvious was right in front of us. A fuse again. What are the chances of that? People are going to think we made that up.
Is that ano? That's an if you ask me. Yeah, we're getting But there's got to be a reason why we have that really bad misfire. So I plugged the auto in to see So I plugged the auto in to see if that would tell us anything. Four, five, six, misfire detected, which is my side. Intake cam shaft sensor short circuit to ground. Exhaust and it basically said the whole right hand side of the engine wasn't working at all. Cylinders four, five, and six were misfiring. And the cam shaft position sensors on that side also weren't working. So something can't be right. You can see only one side of the exhaust is hot. Is it this side by any chance? So nothing is coming out of that side but air. I think it's time to compression test the engine.
Compression tester. What we're doing here is removing the spark plugs and then we can screw in the compression tester to make sure when the piston goes up on its compression stroke, there is actually compression there. What we're looking for is some form of compression. Um, I think we will get compression, but whether it's consistent throughout all of the cylinders, we don't know. So, ready? Y. What's that? 75 PSI. 75 PSI in first one, which we didn't know whether was good or bad. So, in we go into cylinder number five and test that. Maybe like 65. Close enough. Okay. It did seem a little lower than cylinder six, but I still think it should run with that compression. What about cylinder 4? Yeah. Yeah. We had like 125 that went to That's what it's probably meant to be. The other two might be quite low, but it should still run with that compression cuz it's got something. Unless it's compressioning at the wrong time. Oh, it's too much for my brain.
Can you put the spark plugs in the coil packs and just see if they're actually sparking? Yes, I'll do that for you. Right. Next step, let's see if we got spark from the spark plug. So, coil pack going in. Spark plug into the coil pack. And then we got to ground it out. See if that sparks, Matt. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. It was sparking. Yep. Definitely. Oh, we're getting fuel cuz I can smell it. I can see it. And we're going we're getting spot. That's definitely sparked 100%. Has the timing jumped? Next one we're checking. Give it a go, Liam. Yep. Yep. Yep. 100%. Yeah, that I've seen that one then.
Do you know when you're under the car and it's trying to start? That isn't sparking until the car starts. Does that have anything to do with Yeah. Yeah. It should be sparking before the car starting. It's only doing when it starts in it. Yeah, exactly like Yeah. But it's like those cam shaft sensors ain't telling it. These sensors ain't telling it. And we're getting short circuit on them.
Now, the spark plugs need to know when to spark. And they do this because they're told by various sensors on the car. Some of them being the cam shaft sensors. Once the engine knows what position the cam shafts are in, then it will send a signal to the spark plug to spark. It seems like our engine, the spark plugs are not sparking on the right hand side until the car's started, which is strange. So, the car's only starting up with the left side of the engine. Then the spark plugs start sparking. Now, we did switch over the camshaft sensors from the left side of the engine to the right side of the engine, but still had the same result. So, there's something that's got to be wrong with our cam shafts. I think you're right. I think the cams ain't spinning. Yeah, I think engine I think they ain't spinning. Engine is coming out. You reckon? I reckon engine's coming out. Engine very bad. Engine's very bad. Very bad.
The thing I think the engine's got to come out. There's a problem with the cams. Some kind of timing issue. It's got to come out to solve it. We think it's been out before because hence why that bolt was snapped because we've just had a look at how we take the engine out and that is one of the bolts that we're going to remove to take the engine out. So when we pull the drive shaft we can pull that away. So I do I think this car might have been out before and Porsche should have put it back in and then pulled that fuse. That that might explain it. They haven't put any oil and water in it. But why would they get that far and not fix it? Seems odd cuz the guy just decided didn't The bill might have been too much. New engine. What's a new engine? 40 grand. Yeah. But then he should he he thought he had warranty, didn't it? So, bless him.
Right. We got to remember we need to do everything to Porsche specs. So, all the original bolts got to go back in the original holes. Let's uh was this engine out 10 to 10. I reckon it's out by 12:00. Let's go. So, we're committing to taking out the engine of the GT3 RS. We think there's an issue with the internals of it. And to get to the engine, first we got to remove the rear bumper. And underneath the boot lid, there's a few other trims that we need to remove just so we can access the top of the engine. And in my opinion, with these GT3 RS's, the engines are pretty easy to remove. They're not a huge engine, and they sit right at the back. And because they have that sort of race car design, everything's sort of built to come apart quite quick.
Now we've taken the bumper off, then the rear carbon cover, and we can see someone has definitely been here before because there's clips which are missing of the intake pipe and a few hoses which aren't connected back onto the engine. It's almost like this car was thrown back together, and we still don't know why. Now we can access the engine bay. I can disconnect the fuel lines, the coolant lines, and the wires running to the engine ECU. And once they're all disconnected, we can lift the car up and start removing the drive shafts. The idea is just to disconnect everything connecting the engine to the rest of the car. So, suspension arms and subframes have all got to come out. He looks pretty serious there, doesn't he? He looks serious.
And now we've got our new special engine lift, which is hydraulically controlled. Very fancy. This can go underneath the car, lift up and support the engine and the gearbox together. We undo a few more bolts and lift the engine out. Yes. Okay, engine is out. It would have been way quicker if it come out the way we thought it was going to come out, but for some reason we had to undo this subframe section here. So, half 11. No, 12. Half. That's not that bad. 3 hours. Half an hour over time frame. If you ever do this, take the exhaust off first because that was all we needed to do to get the engine out the first time was it to move back about like 6 in backwards. Yeah. Literally, it needed to go 6 in backwards. We couldn't do it because the exhaust was in the way. So, lesson learned, take the exhaust off first.
Okay, judging from what we can see off the off, this wiring does look okay. So, it's not like it is shorting out like the Autoel was telling us. There's got to be a problem inside here with the cam sensors. So, I think we pull this away and then tomorrow we start stripping this engine apart and find out what's up with it.
Now that the engine's out, we've just got to hope we can find the issue to why this car is only running on three cylinders. The first step to do that is to remove the exhaust. We need to get this out the way so we can access everything on the front of the engine to be able to turn it over before we go any further. Okay, exhaust is off. It's not necessary, but it is make it a lot easier cuz now we can get to the crank to spin over the engine. But we want to we want to go on this side because this was the side wasn't firing. Now to take the rocker cover off and reveal the cam shafts and have a look under there, see what's going on. There's these bolts here. So, when I remove them, straight down there is a hole and you're meant to put a tool and we borrowed the tools last time to fix that car over there and you slide it in and it goes like in this gap down here and that holds the cam shafts in because then the rocker cover comes off cuz if we remove the rocker cover without putting that tool in, the cam shafts are going to want to go yeet straight out. So, I've not got a tool, but I think a screwdriver may do the job. Before we try a screwdriver, I've got to remove all the wiring which sits on top of this rocker cover. Then, I can start loosening the bolts which hold the rocker cover in place. This is our Porsche tool. This tool slides down the hole and sits on top of the cam shafts. And you need two just to support them. Now, we can remove the rocker cover and see what's lying underneath. Oh, it's a little bit of wear on it, but not momental. The lifter arms are missing. So, someone's been in this engine. Look, this is why we had compression on here. Look, because none of these cam loes look that none of that. Oh, yeah. Look. So you shouldn't there should be something which pushes down that valve. And at the minute these cams will spin around and none of them are opening or closing the valves which would explain why we had compression on every single cylinder because all the valves are shut. They're all shut. I'm sure there's probably meant to be a lifter in here and in here on this engine when the cam shaft spins round instead of the cam sitting directly onto a hydraulic tap it which pushes down on the valve spring to open the valve. The cam sits on a finger follower and when the cam rotates it pushes the finger follower down which pushes the valve spring down with the valve to open up to let air in and the exhaust fumes out. But on this engine they're missing fing the finger followers are known to fail on these engines and this doesn't have any. So at least it can't fail.
We found out that on the GT3 RS's, specifically this year one, the finger followers along with the cam shafts are known for failure. And it's something to do with the material that Porsche have made them out of. They cause excessive wear on them. And with excessive wear, it causes the cam not to open as much, which can cause misfires right at the top end of the revs or even the engine to sound really noisy. Why have they took them out? What's the question? Where have they gone? M. So the cam variators which do all the variable valve timing, these are meant to be tightened up to like it's a lot. What are you saying? That would explain why these cam sensors on here are getting no signal because it they're not it's not even spinning. So, when this engine's rotating, those cams are saying those cams will be staying in that position and just be spinning around those sprockets. Oh my god. We're going to have to check over this whole engine. Now, because those bolts are left loose on the cam variators at the end of the cams, when the chain is actually spinning and pulling them round, the cam variators are not tight onto the cam shafts. So, they won't actually even be turning the cam shafts, which explains all of our fault codes. It would have been easier if we found the problem, but somebody's already found it and put it back, which has made it a bit harder. Anyway, let's go to the other side. I wish Porsche would just tell us what the issue is. We tried to ring them, but no luck yet. So, now we're going to start stripping apart the other side of the engine as this side should be okay because everything did run. You can see how it works. So, the cam the cam lube pushes that down which pushes the valve down, pushes it open. Apparently, they wear on the top there. Why are they missing out the other side? You can't get them out unless you take the cams out, which would explain why the bolts are loose on the cam variators on the other side because someone had to remove the cams to take out the lifters. At the minute, we only need cam followers on that side, but that just don't make any sense. Why would they not just replace them? No idea. Very, very odd one. I'm going to ring my dad. We're in trouble. I don't know. Apparently. leave a message at the time, please. He put him to voicemail. Carnage. That's your own dad.
So, at the minute, all that's missing are the cam followers on one side of the engine. And we still have no explanation as why they were removed or why the warranty was voided. Right, just inspected a little further here and this cam here. Okay, these are meant to be nice and smooth. And if they're not nice and smooth, uh the way the valve is going to open is it should open like that and then down. But because this I don't know if you can see it, there's a small flat spot on here. The valve is then going to go down up down like you know it's not going to have that smooth opening and closing and that is perish there. And apparently that's a common problem because of the the way the oil is fed to it. Can you see this is like the furthest away and the highest up. So the way the oil is feeding to this and it was a material problem apparently at Porsche. So this cam's going to need replacing. And then I'll also replace the lifters as well. The exhaust seems all okay. But again on further inspection on the other side I will take this cam out. But I can feel just under here as well. It feels flat. I won't know yet until I take the cam out, but I am I'm going to take that cam out. The exhaust seems fine. These all seem nice and smooth. It's just that Yeah, they they do feel flat. It's going to be better when I get them out and then we'll have a look. So, let me get this cam out and then you guys can see. So, I think we've found the issue as to why this car was stripped apart. But it still doesn't explain why the warranty was void. If these cam shafts had worn and the lifters had worn out, this all should be covered under warranty. So, why didn't Porsche when they took this apart, which is what we're assuming, fix it whilst it was all out. I guess we need to find out later. For now, I'm going to try and remove these cam shaft to see how bad they actually are. I've slackened off the chain by taking in the tensioner out. Then I can pop off the variators of the cam shafts and then remove them. First off is the exhaust cam, which doesn't look too bad at all. Then I can remove the intake cam, which definitely is the one causing the issue. Okay, I found it. Check this out. I It's really hard to see, but that is all types of shapes. Yeah, it like it doesn't look smooth, does it? It's a bit uh Look, you can even see there. Look, you see it's flat on top. Can you see it's flat? It's meant to look rounded. Oh, and that one's flat as well. That tiny little thing cause the engine like it might have ran. It might have idled, but when you're revving it and the valve's got to open like a lot, it definitely would have been misfiring cuz it's just not letting if letting in enough air. Yeah, that wouldn't have been working. So, we need a cam shaft. And it looks like we're going to need a cam shaft for that side as well. At least we know what we need to order. So essentially what's happened is when the cam lobe is rotating on that finger follower, after a while they've both worn away at each other to the point where some of the cam loes have wore flat in certain spaces. And this is going to affect how much the valve can open and the smoothness of how the valve opens, which can cause misfires and a lot of other issues. But it seems like it's only affected the intake cam shafts on both sides of the engine.
I've been shopping. We've got everything. 5 1/2 grand worth of stuff. All the engine oils, all the service bit, cam shaft, cam followers, all the parts needed to hopefully build this engine. Let's have a go. I'm going to see if we can fix this side first and then do that side because that side is all timed up. So, at least I know that that side rotates and turns and is fine. And then we'll do one side at a time. Let's go.
So, now we have all the parts to hopefully fix this engine. And the interesting thing is that when I called Porsche to order these parts, they actually told me the reason why this car was refused its warrant, but we'll get to that. For now, I put the engine at top dead center and put the pin tool in the crank to hold it there. and then I can start unboxing the new cam shafts and the finger followers. The only way I know how to rebuild this engine is that I'm assuming it's pretty similar to the 992 GT3 RS that we previously done. I've now put in the finger followers on the intake cam shaft and now I can fit the new intake cam shaft on top of those finger followers and then hold down the cam shaft with the tools in red. The intake cam is on with the rocker arms. Now, this is the variator. This is at the minute that will not spin with the engine until I put on this. But even then, that won't spin. So, the way to get that spinning is you have a nut on the end and you tighten that up and it grips onto that and spins. But obviously, you never want that to slip as your timing is going to go out. So, what they have to grip it actually in here, you can just see this is like almost like a clutch and that grabs on to the cam. And I've got some new we're going to call it a clutch plate. I don't know what it's called, but these are going to be fitted on the inside of the cam variator. And they'll grip onto the cam plate/grip tape in. With that plate fitted in, I can then slide on the variator onto the end of the cam shaft and then begin working on the exhaust cam side by putting in the finger followers which were originally missing and then putting the original exhaust cam shaft over the top of them and holding them in with the red tool in the cam shafts are in, but the variators will still spin on their own. To make sure these cams are in the correct place, we have the special tool. And this special tool only goes in one way. It's got to slide over the cams. And we'll know whether we're doing it right cuz it won't work if it don't. Hey. Hey. Hey. This cam tool slides over the cams almost like a fork. And if the cams were the wrong way up, the fork wouldn't slide over them. Now, remember when I was cranking this up, you weren't allowed some kind of tool on it. These are the vital parts now which are going to lock those variators onto the cams. So, we're going to we've got a new locking bolt. Assume it's that way. And then that bolt slides into the end of the cam shaft. And that's going to grip onto the cam variator. So then they all spin as one. Now, we need that chain to be tight. There is a special tool to keep the chain tight, but we don't have it. So, we're just going to use a chain tensioner. We should be good enough. This will go down. It's important that the chain's tight before we tighten on those variators. So, then we got no chance of anything moving by a tooth. So, this when the engine starts up, this tool here holds the locking nut on the cam variators in place. And once that's in place, we can then begin to tighten up the bolts which hold the variators onto the cams. 30 Nm first turn. 30. Same for the exhaust side. And then it's 40°. 40° now on the intake and on the exhaust. 40. And then there's one more step after that. 40. Now another 5° 5. The bolts on the end of these cams are really tight. So, you can see how important it is for them not to slip. But now that they're all tightened up, we can remove the tooling and hope that the engine is all timed up on this right hand side. I think that the cam's got to be different each side, but I'm really I could have misinterpretated this whole thing. That side's timed. We know because it ran. This side should be timed now, but it's whether it is timed to one another. At the minute, these cams are a different way up to those cams. So, if I went on that side and tried to put that locking tool on it, it wouldn't work because the uh cams on that side are the other way around. But, let's see if that's correct or not. I'm going to try and turn this over. A way to test that everything's good. One is just by turning over the engine. Is that two? I think we're in the clear. That felt good. So, if it wasn't good, what would have happened? It either locked out or it wouldn't have felt right. Best way to test now is to go back to TDC and see if the cam tools will line back up cuz if they don't, some's moved. So, let's go on to TDC, which was 014. Is that in contact? That's in contact, isn't it? Okay, that's looking good. Now we got to do the other side. So, new cam in. It's only intake. The other side we're changing. Time it all up. Put it back together. Put it in. Let's go do the other side. Off we go.
Now, to finish up this side, I've just got some new seals to put on in the middle. Then a new seal for the rocker cover. And after that, I can slide back on the rocker cover and put back in all the bolts to hold it in. And that's hopefully this side all working. Now the highpressure fuel pump bolts into the top. And then I can put in all the wiring and the sensors back into this cylinder head. And finally remove the tools holding the cams in place. Now time to move over to the left hand side of the engine.
So now we do one turn. And then when we take the rocker covers off that side, this should be the correct way up. We're turning the engine over once and then putting it back into TDC. So, when we take that side off now, cuz we've done one turn, the cam locking tool should go straight onto that side. If I've done this right, it's fairly complicated procedure, but to try and explain it, for every one turn of the crankshaft, the cams only turn by half. That tool should go straight on. So essentially the left side of the engine, the cams are doing something completely different to the cams on the right side of the engine. They're almost upside down to one another. And if that doesn't make sense, don't worry. We just got to hope it all works once we put it into the car. Luckily for us, the left side, we only need to replace the intake cam shaft and the finger followers on the intake. So now I'm removing the bolt for the cam variators on both of them because I need to slide them off the cams. And then I'm going to remove the intake cam shaft along with the finger followers. Here's the perish one. Not as bad as the other side. Nowhere near as bad as the other side, but it's still pretty bad cuz the wear on them. Take them all out. The exhaust cam shaft and finger followers can all stay in place cuz they seem in pretty good condition. But these finger followers and the intake cam are going to get thrown in the bin. The new cam. Lovely stuff. So, here's the new cam shaft and the finger followers, which are made out of a different material to the originals. It seems that Porsche have rectified their mistake. I'm putting in the new clutch plate on both of the variators, and then in go the finger followers and the intake cam shaft, which sits on top of them. I tighten them down with a tool, and then I can slide back on the variators onto both cam shafts. Time for all the timing tools. These slide on like the fork again. hold the cams in the correct position whilst the engine's at TDC and then I can put the locking tool at the end and tighten up the variators onto it. Remember 30 Nm first turn then 40° then 5° afterwards and that is the other side of the engine complete. Finally I can remove all the timing tools off that and we should be good to go. But of course, not before new seals on the rocker cover this side as well. If we've got any hope on trying to get this car some Porsche warranty at the end, we've got to make sure it's not leaking any oil and it is original as it left the factory because it's going to undergo a big inspection at the end of the video. Final bits to bolt up on the engine now. And we're almost there. Last little bits before we put it in. Obviously, we're going to give it a service. We've got some fresh spark plugs for it. These are going to go in. Oh, yeah. Fresh plugs. They're going in. Three each side. Then we can button it all up and start lifting it back in the car. Whilst the engine's out, it makes sense just to replace the spark plugs. This car is sitting at around 30,000 mi, so it's probably due a spark plug change as well. And it's not too expensive to replace them. Remember, there's only six on this engine. Once the spark plugs are in, the coil packs can go in on top of them, and they bolt into the rocker cover. To save the coil packs working themselves loose, just like what they did on the Bugata. After that, I can bolt in all the ground wires and clip on all the electrical connections before moving on to the left side of the engine to put the other three spark plugs in that side. Again, doing the exact same thing. Coil packs in, ground wires on, then all the electrical connections afterwards. Then Liam's on the front of the engine putting in all the mountains ready for it to go back in. Big moment then. Engine going in. At the minute it's only a £5,200 fix on a car potentially worth 140, even more if we get this warranty sorted as well from Porsche afterwards. This could be a lovely, lovely little buy providing this all works. So, let's get it in. get it bolted up and we'll start it with the bare minimum on just to see because if we have to pull it back out again, which I really hope we're not going to have to touch wood, it's going to be a lot easier if we don't bolt everything together. In we go. Beep beep beep.
Now, before I bought this car, it had full Porsche warranty, which should have covered this repair on the engine. But when I bought the parts to repair this engine, Porsche told me the reason why they voided it. And that was when the car come in for repair. They didn't think the wear on the engine matched the mileage on the car. And after plugging in their computer, they could see that the car in the previous year had ran for 30 hours, but in those 30 hours only traveled at 1.4 m an hour for each of those hours, which seems a little shady. So, they suspected that it may have had a mileage blocker on it in the past year. Oil is in. That's old oil. ECU is in. All the electrical connections we think are plugged in to enable the car to start. Yeah. Let's just do it. Let's commit. Let's commit. Let's do that. Let's commit. Get all all the oil out. Fresh oil, fresh filter, fresh sump bungs. Committed to this starting up first time and running smooth. It's going to be loud because there's no exhaust on it, but as long as it runs. Come on. And the interesting thing is that
If we put this registration plate into Car Vertical to check the car's history out, we can see that on the mileage graph, between 2025 and 2026, the car only seems to do around 600 miles, which does seem a little shady, but we may be able to contest this when we attempt to get the warranty back at the end of this video.
And other than that, the Car Vertical report comes back pretty clean. It has had eight owners, and I can see a full timeline of the car, but there's nothing sinister which stands out on this report that I should be wary of.
Right, oil in next. But remember to check your car out on Car Vertical. Click the link in the description box below. And also use my discount code on the screen now to get a discount on that check. It could save you a lot of money if you're going to buy a lemon. Hopefully, not like this. Oh, it is a lemon. Is it yellow? It's a lemon. Yeah. Hopefully, it's not going to be a lemon anymore after I put six liters of oil in it. Well, actually seven, but we're going to put six. We don't want to overfill it.
Right. This is the oil that Porsche give you. We've done everything Porsche to Porsche standards and specifications because we are hoping we get our warranty back at the end. We're going to find out. Right. This is definitely the oil fill. Right.
If we do get this repair right, we could have a perfect GT3 RS with that Porsche rolling. And this is unusual for me because normally most the cars I buy have been in an accident before, but if this car was in an accident before, it would have shown up on the Car Vertical report. And sometimes it would actually even show you photos of when the car got auctioned off at the car crash auction site. But on this one, it's completely clean. So, we're hoping for a bargain here.
"Have you got faith?"
"I got faith."
"I'm just slightly worried 'cause it's literally a top-end build. Like, I reckon 12 hours in."
"Yeah, I agree."
"I think we're about 12 hours labor. Like, give or take 12 hours of labor from Porsche. £350 an hour."
"Ooh."
"That's a lot of labor, innit?"
"Plus the parts."
"Plus parts. Yeah."
So, the oil's in the car, the fuel lines are connected, and the top end is now rebuilt. We haven't put the exhaust on or any coolant in just yet, just in case there's any other issues with the car. For now, we just want to get this thing running to make sure the repair that we've done is right.
"It's time to shine."
"Ready?"
"I got faith."
"I'm slightly worried."
"Straight in there. Just crank it."
"Just crank it and redline it."
"Yeah."
"Come on."
It's running and everything's on the exhaust. Like, loads of stuff on the exhaust. It's hard to tell because of the exhaust in it. It might be working. We have been told that they need it needs to relearn the position of the valves and everything now, and like you might need the Porsche tool to be able to reset those values. But it sounds okay. But I just, I don't know.
"It's running better than it was before."
"Oh yeah. At least it's running on six cylinders now."
"Yeah. Yeah."
So, I put oil in it, clear the codes, start it up again, check the oil, put the coolant in it. Right, let's check the fault codes. The good news is that the fault codes that we had at the minute weren't anything related with the engine. All of which should disappear once we build the full car up. Let's see if we run it, if we get any fault codes on the engine. Here we go. That sounds way better this time. Yeah.
"Oh my god. Yeah. Something don't sound right with that."
"Four faults."
"Yeah. Damn."
"Four and six misfiring. Why would four and six be misfiring?"
"I think we got a problem with the exhaust cam. Now, we changed the inlet cams on both sides, but on the right-hand side, we only changed the lifters for the exhaust cam and put the original exhaust cam back in. So, I'm thinking we have an issue with it."
"So, we got to do all that again?"
"Yes."
"I think we're in a dream at the minute."
"Can't be the intake cam because we changed it. We just didn't change the exhaust cam."
"So, it can't be the fact that it's got to do that learning procedure because of the fact that now..."
"It wouldn't misfire. It would just not run as good, but it wouldn't misfire."
"Uh, run it again."
"It's missing on one side, isn't it?"
"Okay, I think we need a camshaft. Same again. Four and six."
Before we jump to anything, we're going to switch coil four over with five because five's running right, four isn't, six isn't. But if we run it next time in the misfiring five, we know it's the coil. We're going back to basics again. But I do think it's something to do with the cam or the exhaust cam. Right. Five. Four. We're going to switch them over and see if the misfire moves. Let's see if cylinder five gets a misfire now. Come on.
"Cuz that sounds fine. It can't be out of time 'cause that's fine. Just that feels really laggy. Look, right, there we go."
"Four and six again. So, we have an issue with four and six. Definitely, unless the spark plugs are faulty on four and six."
Another thing I wanted to check is the cam deviation to see if there was something wrong with the timing.
"Swear that value went to like 22."
"You did at 1.0."
"Yeah, that's too much."
And from this, I could see on the live data that on bank two, it was trying to deviate the timing by nearly 22 degrees on the exhaust and intake side. Now, what this means is that the cam variator on the end of the camshaft is trying to slow down or speed up the timing by a certain degree. This is how variable valve timing works. Sometimes it will slow the camshaft down to keep the valves open for a longer period of time, therefore sucking in more air and on the exhaust side letting more air out. But on the GT3 RS, it should only deviate the values by a maximum of plus or minus 6 degrees. And on R1, it's nearly hitting 22 degrees. So something has got to be wrong with the timing. when I timed up the engine for it to try and adjust it so much when we're revving the car.
"All good. All good. All good."
"Then into limp mode. Yeah."
"Okay. So it was exhaust camshaft deviation was trying to go really loads then, weren't it? The others were fine from what I seen then. Exhaust camshaft deviation was trying to do a lot of deviating."
"Went to like 14. I see."
"And we were unsure about that exhaust camshaft. Exhaust camshaft is either out of timing. So, like when we put that thing back on, it it's either moved or one of the rockers is not in the right place or it's just damaged and we need an exhaust camshaft. Let's get it out. Come on. Rapid."
"Hey, Liam. What's the time?"
"Oh, hey, Matthew. 1 second. I'll get the time off for you, my guy. The time is 10:03."
So, now we're taking the engine out again for the second time because we suspect that maybe the timing has moved, especially on the exhaust side, or we have a problem with that exhaust camshaft. Luckily, we're able to get it out a lot quicker than the first time.
"Engine's out."
"How long?"
"We started at 10:03."
"Half an hour."
"Half an hour."
"It's literally still warm. Not a problem, right? Hopefully, we don't have to do that again. Let's see if there's any obvious signs on this side of why the the cam is not working right."
With the engine out, I now need to get the rocker cover off the right-hand side of the engine where we're having the issues. So, it's the exact same case as before, holding the cams down and then undoing all of the bolts. And once we got that rocker cover off, there was nothing I could see which was obvious causing any issues. That's unless the timing's moved. What we need to do is get it to top dead center and see if our timing kit fits on it. If the timing kit fits on it, that that eliminates the timing aspect out of it. Then we know it's something mechanical.
So, I'm turning over the engine to get it at top dead center. So, I could act like I'm re-timing the right-hand side of it. Put the pin in to lock it in. And now head over to the right-hand side of the engine and slide on the cam locking tool. And if it does slide on easier, everything is all good. Timing's perfectly in. Right. I can't see anything obvious like the timing's in. The only thing we changed is we changed the the lifter, the lifter arms on the exhaust cam, but didn't change the actual exhaust cam. But for me, the exhaust cam doesn't look damaged enough to cause those sort of misfire issues. So, TDC done everything right. And it's not like and if we done it wrong, you think the other side would be wrong as well, but we just copied what we did on this side over onto that side. So, I can only think that the exhaust cam is had its day on this side and we should change the exhaust cam. And I'm kind of thinking we should just if if we can get that, I kind of think we should just do the other side as well. Like exhaust cams both sides with the lifters, then it eliminates anything then.
So at this point I'm deciding that we need to change the exhaust camshaft. So I started removing it all. But once I got it out I really couldn't see that it was damaged enough for me to replace. It looked completely fine. That exhaust cam does not look or feel damaged enough to cause a misfire for me like especially if that bad. But we just called Porsche and they did said after doing this job, it should have a cam deviation reset. So variable valve timing needs to then relearn. And the only way to do that is with a Porsche tool. So I could have taken this all out for no reason when it all it needs is like a little electrical reset. So I think we're going to put it all back in again. Only took half an hour. We'll put coolant in it this time so we can actually run it to temperature. Um, because apparently once you reset it, they self-learn. So just, I'll be shocked if it's that, but there's no there's nothing obvious there. But I guess it was worth checking twice, especially as one of these engines is £40,000. I wouldn't want to risk damaging it, especially if we got something wrong. But I'm fairly happy with the timing and happy that there's no damage inside that engine. So, we're going to put it back in again now and hope what Porsche say is true.
After putting everything together, you plug the Porsche diagnostic tool in it and then the cam variators need to do a relearn because they adjust to the cam wear and obviously the last time the engine ran the camshafts were really worn and now we're putting in brand new ones. So, it may just need that adjustment. Put the oil cap on and we're going to see whether we can run it up. Well, not to temperature, but just see. Let's see whether we can do anything with our diagnostic tool, but I don't think we can. I don't know whether after a while of running it will learn, or are we just going to build it all up and take it to Porsche and then get their diagnostic tool to do the relearn? It seems mad.
With the same action. Got the same result, more misfiring. And when we checked our diagnostic tool, we could still see that the camshafts were trying to deviate way over 6 degrees. Don't like it, does it? What's wrong with it?
"I wasn't feeling too hopeful about it. But as Porsche told us it needs to do that relearn procedure, I thought it's now best to build up the car, get it in one piece, take it to Porsche, and they can activate that relearn procedure. But as I was building this car up, I can only say I had my doubts that that would actually work. I feel like the car should run fine even without that relearn procedure. At least not misfire because the one thing that contradicts that is that we put a new camshaft in the left-hand side along with the followers as well and we have no problem with the engine on the left-hand side. But either way, we decided to build up the rest of the car and get it back on the road so we could take it to Porsche the next day, which means doing everything. Connecting the driveshafts up, collecting the bumpers, putting the coolant in, the anti-roll bar underneath the car, all of the undertrays, and of course the wheels. And it wasn't long until the car was complete."
Right, time to pull this baby out. She come in, pushed in, and she's going to drive out of her own accord with hopefully, please, please, please, no faults. Little lemon, come on. Oh, she's not happy.
"It don't like revving."
"What happened to it?"
"I was like nearly have my foot to the floor trying to do go backwards then. Then it sounds good once the engine light comes on."
"I don't think I don't think it's good."
"Well, maybe a little bit."
"Yeah."
"Does that count as a success?"
"Yeah. We've got four, five, and six. No good. Man."
"That engine's not coming back out. This just goes all the way to seven... 15."
"So, there's something wrong with that exhaust camshaft."
"It's almost like we need a Porsche tool to be able to set them."
"I can't see it having that much effect."
"See, like when it hits 11, the engine just cuts out. It's trying to time too much. It's like the timing is out."
The car was still trying to deviate the timing by way over 6 degrees, the allowed amount, before finally jumping into a limp mode.
"Such a..."
"I just can't see the Porsche relearn procedure fixing this problem. I think it's more of a mechanical thing rather than electrical. We tried everything."
"Still trying to deviate the exhaust camshaft too much. So, it's either the exhaust camshaft is out of time or it's broken."
We've had the engine out twice now and we fully built up the car and we're all literally out of ideas. But that night, I think I found something. I know what the problem is. I hope I know what the problem is. I I I'm that confident. I had a flight tomorrow to head back to carry on work on the Bugatti Chiron and I'm that confident. I've canceled the flight and I've changed it to Monday because I think I know what the problem is. Now, I think this mistake could have been avoided and it's definitely my fault to an extent unless repair manuals were made public. So, anyone could get a repair manual to rebuild a GT3 RS, but obviously you can't unless you're a Porsche tech or you work at Porsche.
Now the problem I think lies with not the camshafts but the actual variators on the end which do the deviation of the timing. After leaving the unit last night I went back and I watched all the footage to see if we've made any mistake. And we had this engine out twice, re-timed it twice. So there can't be a mistake in the timing. But then there is one thing that I did actually notice which is slightly different. The camshaft variators which sit on the end of the camshaft, the the thing with the cog which also variates the timing, they were different to one another. They weren't the same. Well, when I first saw that, I thought, well, that's not a problem because I never removed them from the engine. I pulled the camshaft out, left the variators in place, and it went back in the exact way it came out. But then I noticed something on the left side of the engine. The thicker camshaft variator was used on the intake cam and the thinner camshaft variator is used on the exhaust cam. Whereas on the right-hand side, it was the other way around. And I was thinking, well, how can this why that how can that be wrong? Because I never moved them. I took them out. But then I mentioned this to Matt, the cameraman, and he said, "Can you not remember? Porsche actually had this car apart and then put it back together and gave it back to the customer." They ain't going to care which variator goes in which way on that side because the car isn't going to run either way. So, I never checked the variators before they went in because I just assumed they were in the right spot. So, I think and I hope that they are the wrong way round and I'm about to find out.
The only issue is I've now got a speed run taking this car apart and the engine apart to have a look at the variators and I'm nearly 100% confident that the variators are in the wrong spot on the right-hand side of the engine and that is going to solve our issue. This is going to be a big speed run to get the car stripped out, engine out, get the variators and put it all back in. And we're 100% banking on this is going to be right because we've canceled our flight to go to Miami to start rebuilding the Chiron. So, this has got to work. On with the speed run.
This has to be it. It literally looks like once Porsche diagnosed the problem, but then didn't honor the warranty, they just threw this car back together and gave it back to the customer. And they must have threw it back together, not bothering which way these variators go. Look at that. Fat one on the bottom, thin one on the top. The reason I didn't notice this to start with is because I never took them out. So, I assumed they were going to be right. But then, and that would explain why that side's working and this side ain't. But this has been thrown back together to give back to the customer. This has got to be why it's not working. It has to be. Right. Let's switch these over, re-time it back in, and start it up. And hopefully, hopefully this time we've gone way over our labor hours, but we haven't spent any more money, which is great. So, and it's been fun. We've had so much fun taking it in and out loads of times, haven't we?
"It's been amazing."
"Yeah, it has been so much fun. Like, how fast are we at taking these engines out now?"
"We could actually have a Porsche dealership."
"Literally an hour in and an hour out and I reckon it'll be back in in an hour as well. So, it turns..."
So, it turns out these variators are different to the other side that we put in. So, now it's just a case of taking the camshafts out once again and switching over those variators and re-timing the whole engine. You're the reason why we have taken you out three times already. In fact, you've been out four times already because the Porsche tech took you out, put you back in, we took you back out again, put you back in, and then we took you back out again, then put you back in, AND NOW WE TOOK YOU BACK OUT AGAIN ONE MORE TIME BEFORE YOU FINALLY PUT back in, and it all worked. Yeah, we're losing our minds here, but here they are. Two slightly different cam variators. And if you were like me and you just assume that Porsche put it back correctly, then you would have just left these in the car whilst you change the camshafts. But of course, you always have got to double check your work because if I did that in the first place, I wouldn't have had to take this engine out two more times than I needed to. But hopefully now, after I've re-timed it all with the camshaft variators in the correct position, me and Liam can put this engine back in for the last and final time before getting it back on the road and driving to Porsche where we can try and reclaim the Porsche warranty.
This has got to be it. This has got to be it. Third time's a charm. The only reason it wouldn't be it is if we've made a stupid mistake because we did that insanely fast.
"Yeah."
"Please work. Idling well at the minute. I'm going to leave it to idle a bit before we do anything. So far, no light and we had a little rev. Sounds good."
"That sounds good."
"Stop."
"That sounds good."
"Yeah. It's got to be working. It's got to be working. No lights. No lights on the dash. It was just that stupid thing. It was just a stupid thing around. I I don't. It's still like. We're still like. Anything could happen because you just never know. But it does sound really good. Even with that stock exhaust, the exhaust sounds way better."
Finally, everything was working. And there was no more lights on the dash. We could now actually get the wheels back on, put all the trims in, take this for its first test drive.
"Come on."
And even with all the hassle it's given us, I still really like the look of this GT3 RS. Let's just hope now she's going to run faultless. Here we go.
The next morning and the drive to Porsche to get our warranty back. Hopefully, it passes the 111-point inspection. It needs alignment. It needs air con gas. It needs an oil change. It needs the inspection. And if it passes all four of them, we get our warranty back. And we have a completely dialed-in Porsche. And you would not believe the price that I got it for. And all the parts price that we paid for to get this back on the road. As long as this car makes it to Porsche now, we're absolutely golden. Come on. Off we go.
"There's no air con."
"Oh."
"Now when this car gets to Porsche, it will undergo a 111-point inspection where a technician will completely check over the car to make sure it's 100% and if it passes, we will gain Porsche approved warranty, which means if we have any more issues with the car, it will be all covered under Porsche's warranty scheme. But we've got to pass this inspection first."
"Here we go. She's driving. The tracking is really out, but we're getting that fixed. Oil temp looking good. Cooling temp looking good. Long go. 56 miles actually. Off we go then."
But unfortunately, the problems didn't end there.
"The back end wanted to go that way. Over. Right."
"Your fist moving everywhere."
"Oh no. Oh no. We Yeah, we're dead."
"We're dead."
"Gone crazy."
"Yeah. Temperature is high up."
"Thought we might be able to make it back. Oh, we're not going to make it."
"This car."
"It's not the hose I thought it was."
"If you're looking at car, it looks like it's coming from quite far back."
"It's coming from really far back, man."
"Hoses on."
"You know the two hoses that we disconnected at the front. Going to let the coolant out. Jeff, one of those clips has come off."
"Oh, right. Oh, yeah. The ones right at the front. The ones at the front. It's coming out from here."
"Oh, is it coming out from..."
"Oh, yeah, it is. Yeah. Yeah, it's going to be one of them."
Just when we think we was driving this car to Porsche and getting it back on the road for the first time since it had the engine issue, it's decided to burst a coolant pipe. So, we have no option but to trailer the car back to the workshop again. We need to find exactly where this leak is coming from.
"It's very wet. Should see if we can see the problem."
"Oh, that's that's not meant to be like that, guys."
"Okay, let's put that back in and refill the coolant. That look Well, at least that's like an easy fix. and we'll jam up this seal."
Luckily, just the hose has popped off, so it could just be a quick fix.
"That's solid. Everyone's witnessed that. I'm literally swinging on it. Put a tray on."
"Refill it with coolant. Let's go."
With that coolant hose back on, it isn't just a case of pouring coolant back in the expansion tank. We do have to vacuum fill the cooling system. But once we've done that, now this is the time we get back on the road. Surely this car has nearly beat us. But a lesson learned for this build has been double and triple check the work because one small thing like a coolant pipe can throw you back hours on a build. Big journey. She's finally on the road and we're at Porsche ready for our 111-point inspection and our tracking and our air con and our oil change. We're about to find out whether we've got any chance on getting our warranty back with the little lemon. In she goes into Porsche and we'll uh we'll pick her back up at the end of the day. Off we go.
So, is our work going to be good enough for Porsche? I guess we're going to find out after they've completed their 111-point inspection. And whilst we wait, we went off to do what any Porsche owner would do.
"He's all right."
"It's on the fairway."
"Did this on the phone."
Finally, we get the phone call at the end of the day to say that the Porsche is ready for collection. And this is a big moment for us now. Can we get the warranty back? The lemon is out. And the good news is no more fault codes on the dash at all. It's had four-wheel alignment. It's had air con and everything it needs. And we've got our inspection back. It is looking really, really good, but we're not going to be getting our warranty back today for now. Just yet.
Now, one of the main reasons is why we can't get the warranty back just for now. You have to own the car for over 90 days to get the warranty back on the car. So, you need to provide a log book and everything like that. I haven't owned this car for over 90 days. And that's to stop traders buying the car, doing what we did, taking it in there, getting the warranty, and then selling it with Porsche approved warranty. So, we need 90 days and then we could get the warranty. On top of that, the windscreen here has a chip in it, but that's not enough to void our warranty claim. So, that is actually fine.
Now, on the front, we've got a little cross for axle joints. Now, there was a play in one of the wheels on the front. They suspect it to be a wheel bearing, and that needs to be fixed. So, we have brake pads. We got a cross for which was uh on the front. The brake pads are all rusty and they're cracking and not been used in ages. So, they want them replacing before they honor the warranty. The engine has mist of oil and some coolant marks, but that's because obviously when we filled it up and we've got coolant on there, they said if that dries out and the car runs in the ramp with no mist of oil, it'll pass, which it will. And there's one more last one, which was you need to have no unusual noise or vibration. And we have a rattle from the roll cage. Now on the roll cage, well this roll cage we see it's been wrapped yellow. It's not actually that original color. And what they've said is the bolts at the back. Whoever's took it out put the bolts back in the wrong way and they think it's causing it to rattle. So really, really small fixes. And once that's all done, we could get a Porsche approved warranty and we can do what the hell ever the hell we want to it. And we've got warranty. Good news.
But what about the mileage discrepancy on why this car had its warranty void in the first place? Now, because it's a bit of a weird one. Obviously, the previous owner must have argued it, but because I'm now a new owner and I'm trying to regain warranty and the car is fixed, then we can now set up an argument with Porsche to say that like that's nothing that we've done ourselves. So they can actually look into that and flag it up and then they the guys here are really optimistic that we should be able to get that wiped off and claim a warranty about now that the car is all fixed. But yeah, it's a bit of a weird one because apparently the engine was running for a longer time than the mileage clock has recognized.
So with all that being done and all the work we've done to it, was this build actually worth the money? I think this car would be worth with the mileage and the age around £135 to £140,000. And I bought the lemon for £87,000 and it cost us around £5,000 for all the parts to fix it, which brings the cost to £92,000 plus all the labor we spent on it, which I still think is a really good result. What a result. We got there in the end. Thanks so much for watching this video. If you enjoyed it, hit the subscribe button, hit that thumbs up button, and I'll see you in the next video. Peace out.
"You're like a truck."
"I just can't deny."