Transcription
Morning everybody. So today we've got the wife's Subaru in the shop. Um, it has a whole bunch of codes on the dash, like stuff's just going crazy. And she said it was driving kind of funny, shifted kind of weird. So I told her just to shut it off and then we got it here.
Um, don't know a ton about these things because obviously I'm a decent mechanic, but we'll see what we can't figure out today. Um, take the old Snap-On reader, see what we can't find out. I'm not aware of any transmission problems with these things. It's a 2013 with the 2.5 liter in it, but I don't know, it's on the bottom, like I said. So we'll just see what's up here a second.
Okay, so this is what the dash looks like. It's just lit up like a Christmas tree. So if I had to guess, we'd definitely have something electrical going on because the car starts and runs fine, doesn't really make any weird noises or anything. But I know if you do start to try and drive it, just like what was on before, next to the check engine light, that AT temp light will come on. So I don't know if we have a sensor that went bad or what, but we'll see what we got going on in here.
Okay, so we want code scan. Oh, that says we want pre-scan. Whole bunch of garbage. It looks like just a generic transmission code. I guess we'll just have to give it a second for it to do its thinking.
All right, so that took forever. Um, we got a few codes for the ECM, which I'm not really too concerned about, the O2 sensor or the two lean. But it's got a generic transmission control module code. So it's a 2764, lockup duty solenoid circuit. So that would make sense with what my wife was describing because she made it sound like it was not slipping, but the way she made it sound to me was almost like the torque converter was coming in and out of lockup. Um, TCM code for the ABS. Okay, so we're going to troubleshoot the 2764 first because I think that's our main problem.
Okay, so see, was that a 27.64? Okay, so check for an open circuit in the wiring harness. Check the resistance of the lockup duty solenoid. Resistance should be approximately 10 to 13 and a half ohms between the lockup duty solenoid and the valve body. The valve body is accessible at the top of the transmission. Okay, so I guess we've got to figure out where that valve body is and then we can go from there. So let me get AllData up and running and then we'll see what's up.
All right, well, my printer is not cooperating. I found a wiring diagram, but this is what I get, so that doesn't do me any good. But I've got it pulled up on AllData, and so this is the valve body that they were talking about. I would assume this is, these are all the diagrams for basically the whole CVT transmission. Um, so we'll just go back down to here and apparently this is a non-serviceable unit. So all these solenoids that are in, sensors that are in here are all part of this valve body and nothing can be serviced separately. So this is the one here that we were after, that was the one that we actually had the code for. But I'm wondering if this whole thing is bad because we also had the AT temp light on in the dash. So I think what we'll do is we'll get down to where this wire is here, and it looks like we're going to have to have to test this between the chassis ground because this is all grounded internally here. So I think that's what we'll do. We'll maybe test a couple of these other solenoids and see what we can find from there.
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All right, so it's actually really easy to get to. Um, I'm assuming that this is the harness that they're talking about, and probably underneath of this cover is going to be your valve body. So I think this white wire right here, that's the one that we want to test between that and like a chassis ground or something because I believe that was the one that was for the lockup solenoid. Yeah, sure enough. So, okay, so I think they said something about 13 ohms. I'll set you guys back up here and I'll see if we can get you zoomed in enough so that way you can see it too. Yeah, I think that'll work. So I'm not getting anything. Let's test one of these other ones once and see if we get anything there. It's kind of bouncing all over the place, but we're getting something out of it. Let's go to a little battery ground here. Once, nothing's not in line, it seems pretty good too. Go back up to the lockup solenoid. Hopefully I don't get anything there. I'm gonna go ahead and assume that we've got a bad, bad valve body. Well, we're actually getting 14.3 at battery ground. I've said that it should be pretty close to 13. Just, I believe that's what it said. There's another white layer. I wonder if maybe I'm on the wrong one. Maybe I'm on the wrong one.
Okay, so moral of the story is, I'm stupid, which is nothing new. So here, um, here's all the, the wires and basically what they do at this connector. So I was able to look up, um, resistance values in my scanner because this one has guided component tests on it. And then I just wrote down like the wire color and what number they were. And then this is obviously all my corresponding values. Oh, shoot, it's gonna disappear on me. Well, maybe not. Okay, so number nine here.
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That's the lockup solenoid, which is what we have the code for. That's supposed to be 10 between 10 and 13 and a half, which is your white wire. Well, when I was down here before, so this wire right here, that sure looks like it's white, but it's actually not. It's gray. This is the white wire here, that's the one I was testing the first time, and that one's actually for your upshift solenoid, and that one was giving me the correct value. But if I go here and I test this white wire here, the one I'm supposed to, between that little tiny spot I cleaned on the case, then we only get 2.19. So I'll see if I can set everything back up and I'll show you that again.
Okay, so the first one we'll do here is the gray one, which should give us around 12 or so of what I had before. Yeah, 12.7. Now we'll do the white one, which is the one I was supposed to do in the first place. Yeah, there we go. 2.11. So now I believe we just have to take all these bolts out. First thing you're going to want to do too, is there's all this crud in here, is clean all this out. If you have a blow gun, just go and blow it all out. But I'll, I'll scrape it all with a screwdriver and then just stick my shop vac in there and clean it up. But I think I'm going to go ahead and order that valve body. And then I was just looking up in AllData and the service info, and there's two O-rings and a gasket and a couple other things that go in there. So I'm going to order all that stuff and then I'll show you guys how to replace it.
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All right, so I got all the bolts out holding the cover, and I believe there's 11. Um, but right here, and then let's see if I can get you down here somewhere, someway. Hold on, let me grab a flashlight, would make everything way easier. Okay, there we go. And then this hole right here, so that one, and then this one right there. Those are two locating dowels. They're more than likely a steel dowel, and obviously with that being an aluminum housing and then a steel dowel pin, it is all going to be corroded together. So I've been squirting a little PB Blaster in there to try and get it to free up. And then I took one of the longer bolts here that actually go in the housing to secure that, and I put it in this threaded hole here. And the reason why I did that instead of one of the shorter ones that goes in there is because then I can engage more threads, at least that's the idea. And then I've just got a lady slipper, and then right, this is where I'm putting it on right here, and then just trying to pry it real light. Do not reef on it because if you reef on it, you can either rip the threads out or crack the case, neither of which you want to do. As you can see, it's moving a little bit, but it's being stubborn. It does not want to come all the way off. So we might have to introduce a little heat to it. But I sprayed a bunch of brake clean down there too because I don't have an air compressor in the shop to get a lot of the garbage away from the, so it doesn't fall in. So I don't want to light it with a torch yet because that'll cause problems. But this sucker just does not want to pop. So I think what we're going to try next is to just take a hammer and a punch and lightly tap all the way around that housing to see if we can get it to break free. Maybe some vibration will do some good.
Oh, is wait, let's hope for a while. Well, I think that starting to come up. Sure looks like it's from here. Oh, there we go. All right, so we got the back side up. Oh, she's loosening, I think. So this is the part I would be careful about. You just want to do it real gentle. I'm not really worried about cracking the case anymore, but you don't want to drop anything down into the drain, then it turns into a lot bigger job than you want to do. Probably. There we go. Sneak this cover out of here. I think there's probably a connector on the bottom side too, somewhere. Yeah, there sure is. Grab you guys a second. So this yellow connector here, that's what goes up to the harness in the case. So you have to disconnect that. See if I can do it one-handed here. Probably not. I'm gonna do two hands.
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Oh, come on now. Do so. Come on, baby. Come on. Unbelievable. I swear sometimes you got to be the Hulk just to get these plastic connectors apart. There we go. Yeah, I'm just real weak. All right, so there's your cover, and this is just a pass-through harness. So I, uh, I suppose we really could test. If you guys remember, we tested the, uh, well, not that gray wire, but the white wire. So we tested that pin, and in theory, supposedly this could be bad, this harness. But I talked to the guys down at Subaru, and they said that apparently this is a very common problem. But I'm a, I'm a diesel mechanic by trade, if you guys can tell by the channel name, not an automotive mechanic. So anyway, I think before we go any further, I'm gonna go ahead and open up just to make sure that it's the same thing. Well, I do not know what that is. Seat special tool.
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See, I do not, I do not have any room at the moment. Two little 4.3 liter V6s out of a couple boats. I think that one was out of a Mercruiser. I don't even remember what that was out of, but we're Frankenstein and one engine out of the two. It's currently taking up all my bench space. Anyway, that's not what we're after. So I'm assuming that these must be the solenoids that are in the valve body. So let's see. None of these have a white wire going to them, so those must not be the ones. Oh, so it must be that guy down in there. Okay, well, anyway, we'll go ahead and see. Look at all the empty holes. So it looks like we got to take mostly the black ones, and it looks like there's two silver ones, just by looking at the open holes here. Go ahead and cover that thing up until it's time. But it looks like we're gonna have to do all these black ones here, and then this silver one, and that one there. So we'll go ahead and get those pulled out of here a minute. I know the camera quality leaves a lot to be desired, but for right now, I'm just filming on my phone because that's what I've got. Maybe eventually I'll get it here. So four, five, yep, these are the ones. Oh, let's see here. Oh, one more. Okay, hold it here for a second and let all this fluid drain out. Carefully try and sneak this thing out. Oh, there we are. Okay, so all, well, there was supposed to be an O-ring here. Here, I wonder if it got stuck to the bottom. Hopefully it did. Okay, well, there's one of them, but I only see one. That's not good. Well, shoot, I don't feel anything in there. Crap. All right, where did I pull this one off of? I better find that thing before we do anything else. That guy was off of here, which means that that would have been on the top one. So the one we're missing would have been up here. All right, I'm gonna put you guys down a second and find this thing. Crisis averted. Found it. Was so, there's two. You can't see it, but there's right where my middle finger is, there's a little divider inside the, so there's a hole here and then there's a hole here, and it was sitting back in this corner right down in there. But anyway, thankfully I found it. That makes me feel a hell of a lot better that I'm not going to be plugging any passages and ruining the, and the wife's car. So anyway, now we'll get this thing cleaned up. Uh, get this housing ready, or the top of the, ready. Yeah, clean up the housing. So right here, see there's a tiny little line. You're gonna have that on both sides. You can see it right here as well. So that's where the rear half and the front half of the meet. So you're gonna have to clean it up. Um, I would just be using like, I'd put a bunch, put a bunch of towels in here, and I would just use some light emery cloth. I still wouldn't use any power tools and just scrape this crap off. And then you'll have to put a bead of silicone here and here, um, before you put that top cover back on. So anyway, let's get this thing cleaned up, get the new valve body in.
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So all right, so I got new O-rings here, which I'm just gonna take and dip it in the fluid, stick them in their spots where they're supposed to go. Get these rags out of here. Then before we do anything else, so this special tool, I, I really truly have no idea what it is. I don't know, it's just this big sheet of plastic, it looks like, and then in there, there's a smaller sheet of plastic that was taped inside of a bag. I don't know what that is. So we're gonna look it up in AllData just to make sure that it's not anything stupid important. Oh, where's my mouse? There it is. Okay, yeah, see there's that special tool, but what do they want you to do? Tape off the entire engine bay, it's kind of what it looks like, right? All, um, along here, it looks like you just put that over there, tape it all up. That's my guess. Okay, well, we did not do that. Um, I also did not replace this O-ring because it's not leaking, and if it does leak, it's pretty easy to get to.
Okay, so the first thing we're gonna want to do is these bolts here, bolts A is what they call those, are the silver ones, I believe, and it looks like we have to put those ones in first, temporarily tighten them, put bolts B in. Okay, so we got to put bolts A in, silver ones, probably finger tight, put bolts B in, torque those ones to 6.6.
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Foot-pounds, and then torque the silver ones. All right, let's get after it. There we go. That's much better. You do not want to knock those off. Yeah, it feels like it's in. Thanks. Oh, okay. I just gotta go grab my torque wrench, minute. Okay, and then we said 6.6 foot-pounds. We're gonna put that into inch-pounds, 79.2. So we're gonna do 79. All right, and I've got, so this is what I'm gonna use, and the reason why I'm gonna use this instead of a click type is because these are way more accurate. The click type for something like this, I don't think gives you what you need. So we want 72.9, so we're just gonna take, there's 50, it's 75, so we're gonna be somewhere right in the middle, and that should give us, that should be plenty good right there. Then I always do it, if you're torquing something, you want to start to the left of the zero because when you turn the wrench, the indicator is gonna move this way, and then once it hits zero, I know that I've hit my torque. So put my little stubby 10 millimeter on there, and there we go. So remember we want to do the black ones first, and then the silver. I don't get it. Is okay.
All right, so the one thing you don't want to forget.
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Anti-seize. Some gasket maker because the gasket maker, you just want to put, oh, let's see if I can do this here, just a little bit of it. Well, I think she's stuck. I'll get you guys set up better here. Now, you don't want to do a lot, just do a little bit. Maybe spray it down with some brake clean first so that will actually stick all that oil on there, it just wants to slip around. Okay, and then the reason for the anti-seize is because if anybody ever has to do this again, those little dowel pins, I'd put anti-seize around those so that way that cover doesn't get stuck, hopefully like it did with us. So put that around both those little dowel pins. Grab our gasket, make sure we got it the right way up here as we do. Okay, and then they gave me four quarts of fluid for this. I don't know if we need all four quarts. It doesn't say anything about it in AllData, but I am going to dump just a little bit on top here, let it run down. We're gonna do just a quarter. Okay, let's get the cover put back on. Don't forget to plug it back in. Okay, we are in. All right, we'll get our bolts slapped in, the rest of it put back together.
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So
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Do
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All right, well, these are the end of instructions here, and it doesn't say anything about a transmission relearn. But with it being a newer car, I would highly doubt that there's not a relearn procedure. I also don't know 100 about the CVT level. Um, I mean, there's, I mean, it's a decent sized valve body, and there's some that leaked out, but I can't imagine that I would have to add all four quarts that they sent me. So I don't know, I only added one, and we'll drive it and see what happens. But anyway, we're gonna get hooked in here a minute and see if there is a relearn procedure.
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Because I'm betting there is. Maybe I'm wrong.
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All right, Subaru Auto ID. Man, you guys cannot see that screen with the dang. All right, oh, okay. Well, it doesn't say anything. Oh, here we go. Tests and procedures. Well, it just says test the part. I know you guys can't read that. Well, it looks like maybe I wasn't wrong. Okay, well, we're gonna go ahead and drive it and see what happens.
All right, well, the, uh, Subaru's good to go. So I took it for a test drive and I tried to record it, or did record it, and then somehow lost the video. Anyway, but it went good. I probably took it for a 30-mile ride, never had any issues, no leaks, no shifting funny. So we're gonna call that good. Um, thanks for watching. Stick around for more crappy videos.