Transcription
Stainless Black on Metal Coating. In this video, we're going to show you a little something different that we tried out, and I think it turned out pretty cool.
First, we're going to start with this resin casting, and we already have the primer on that. It's two coats of primer, about an hour in between. Twenty-four hours later, we're going to hit it with the Bronze B.
And what we're going to do different is we're actually going to do two coats of the Bronze B, and then we're going to do a light scuff. Now, if you want to do a heavy scuff, the B is not really meant for that, and we're going to talk about going more in depth with the C in a little bit. But here, we're just kind of getting that top layer of acrylic that makes the Metal Coating really off, and so we're trying to expose a little bit of that bronze and make it so the patina will react a little bit different. So, it's a real light scuff, not a whole lot of pressure, and really just trying to open it up just, just a little bit.
From there, we're going to use the Stainless Black Patina, and this is a patina that we don't really recommend on the Metal Coatings, but when we do it on dry Metal Coating, it kind of does something cool.
And so, this is dried Metal Coating, and we're working from the bottom and going up, and that will help with runs over time. And you can see it already looking like it's going to darken a little bit, but over time, what really happens is it kind of darkens and gets this little blackish look, and it gets a little red into it, and it's a really cool effect.
And what we're going to do to help with it a little bit and not get so much black is that we're actually going to use the Scotch-Brite pad while it's still wet on the surface. And you've seen this probably when we're doing traditional patinas on actual metal to get a more even finish. This, I just want to try and get it more into the pores, try and help it kind of react with that Metal Coating that's on there already.
And the next day, it kind of has this whitish, ugly film on it. And so, this is just water in a rag, and I'm just kind of wiping it down to get some of that off.
And so, once we wipe that down really good, just rinsing it with more water and getting the excess chemical off, you can see it still has that kind of whitish tone on it. We're going to hit it with the Clear Guard Mat, and that's going to help even a whole bunch of this stuff out.
And here we have our final piece. You can see a little black undertones, but it really has this reddish-brown, old look to it, which is really cool.
Now, we're going to talk about C version. And here's another in casting. It's already got two coats of primer, one hour in between coats, and then twenty-four hours between Metal Coating.
And then we do three coats of the C variant, and I always like doing a little bit more of the C to build up that layer. I can be a little more aggressive with the sanding, and again, we're just trying to expose the metal a little bit in there.
And now we put on the Stainless Black, and you should see real quick that this color is going to start coming in like a reddish and look like it's really going to start oxidizing more. And we're just going to let this kick off, and I'm actually going to rinse this after a few minutes. I don't want the reaction to completely keep going like we did with the other one because I don't want that film.
But you can see how we have this really pretty reddish-brown going. I'm going to let it go for just a little bit longer, and then I'll rinse it off with water, just running it lightly under a tap.
Now, I think it's important to play with reaction times when you're doing this, and this should be considered an experiment. And you should do a sample before you move on to your real piece because in my other sample, I rinsed it sooner, and I got less variation in color, but I really liked how this one turned out, so I'm glad that I went a little bit longer.
But this is twenty-four hours after rinsing it. Just let it dry and set up completely and finish reacting. And then we're going to go ahead and put the Clear Guard Mat on there.
I'm actually going over with more Clear Guard than I typically do, and this is pretty normal for, um, we see this on green patinas that are really, uh, heavy and powdery, if you will. And basically, the thirstier it is, the more you got to feed the clear coat to get it to rise up above, and that's how you can get rid of some of these white marks.
So, if you still have some of these white marks from like the clear coat not taking care of it and disappearing, try doing a little more Clear Guard, and it might take care of that, and that's what helped in this.
So, we have the final product, and here we have on our normal settings, and I love how dark and cool it looks, but I wanted to brighten that up.
And this is just increasing the brightness just so we can see what it looks like in a lot of light, and I really like the variation in the colors and just the kind of cool patterns that it created just by doing this.
So, try it out and see what you think: rinsing, not rinsing, which type of Metal Coatings work better. But I really liked how the Stainless Black worked on this one.
Stainless Black and Metal Coating are available at www.scnow.com or by calling us at 760-432-8299.