Transcription
[Music] In my videos, I often use a CNC to cut out parts. A CNC is a fantastic tool, but they are expensive. So, I thought I would show you how to build a machine for around €500 or $500.
I have built several hundred machines under my own brand since 2009. I have built expensive and cheap machines, 3, 4, 5 axis machines, plasma cutters, laser cutters, and lots of other computerized tools. My last machines have been very expensive and complicated and for industrial environments. I miss building simple machines and from parts that are easy to get. So that's what I'm going to do now.
I have designed the machine with materials that are cheap and easy to get. I build the parts from regular 12 mm MDF. I have chosen black MDF, which is a bit more expensive, but regular MDF will work just as well. Start by buying two sheets of 12 mm MDF. The dimensions will be given in millimeters, but you can easily convert the dimensions with an online calculator. All parts can be cut out with standard hand tools. The drawings can be found in the description below. I also include printable stencils so you can stick them on the material and follow all the holes and edges. When the machine is finished, you can cut out all the parts again and replace them for a more precise machine. To print the stencils in actual size, you must set the printer as shown.
[Music] You can also choose how big a machine you want to build. It's easy to modify the dimensions so that the machine suits you better. I am building a machine that is 2,000 x 1,350 mm in size. The result will be a machine that you can use and work with. We will cut with a machine at the end so you can see how capable it is. Let's start with a machine base. You can build a base however you want and even cheaper. The important thing is that the base is level and about 5 to 10 cm high. I'll build it with MDF, glue, and screws. You can see my exact measurements in the instructions.
[Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] Fasten a 12 mm board to the base. I have to use 16 since I ran out of 12 mm.
[Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] One of the most expensive parts of a CNC is the rail guide. I'll make a cheap version out of angle iron and bearings. I use an angle bar that is 20x20x3 mm. You can also use aluminum. The cost is about €2.1 per meter, and I need about 15 m. Drill 5 mm holes right in the middle of the profile with about 20 cm distance between the holes. You can use any size screw you want. I use 5 mm. Just drill holes in the top angle irons. We will drill through the table in the bottom angle by hand later so they end up flush with the edge.
[Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] I use V-groove ball bearings that roll on the angle irons. This is by far the cheapest option and works well. The wheels cost €6 each, and we need 20 of them. Link to the product is down in the description.
[Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] Now it's time to build the X-axis unit. The unit should be as wide as the bottom edge of your side plates. It is perfectly fine to build the axle out of MDF. I will screw angle iron on all four edges, which makes it extremely rigid. Building it is not difficult at all. I will use glue and nails.
[Music] [Music] [Music] I attach the X-axis unit with cross dowels and M6 screws. I will add up the price of all the hardware at the end, such as glue, screws, and other small parts.
I'm building the Z-axis from aluminum profile on the X-axis plate. I attach the wheels in the same way as on the side plates. On the other plate closest to the Z-axis, I attach the wheels in the same way, but on the other side where the Z-axis will be located. We need an extra nut before a thread on the Z-axis itself. I also attached the nut for the lead screw with M5 14 mm screws and nuts. I need to bond both plates together. I do this with a piece of MDF above and below the X-axis. You can use whatever you want, but MDF will probably be the cheapest.
[Music] [Music] [Music] There are three parts on the machine that are not MDF. We need a thinner and stronger material. You can use 4 to 6 mm aluminum or 6 mm HPL, which is a strong plastic material and is easy to shape.
[Music] [Music] [Music] Now I'm going to attach a motor to the Z-axis. There's a coupling between the motor and the screw. I'll attach it to the screw first.
[Music] [Music] Now we have come to the electronics, and there is a lot to discuss at this point. We have a choice: either we make a budget version with Arduino, or a professional version with industrial electronics. Since we are going to build as cheap a machine as possible, we choose Arduino. If we choose stepper motors between 2 to 2.5 amp, we can run both versions, which means that you can upgrade the electronics later. An Arduino board with all accessories only costs €20. It is the motors that are expensive and cost €4 each, and we need four of them. I recommend at least 2.8 amp motors, but they cannot be run with a standard Arduino set, so we have to go with 2.5 amp motors for the Arduino board. I also need a power supply. I'll choose one that is at least 15 amp and 350 watt so that I can use it if I upgrade in the future. Another expensive component on a CNC is the drive itself. A professional machine has either a ball screw or rack as drive, but there is a third alternative: timing belt. Timing belts are very cheap and work well on machines that do not cut too hard materials. If you only going to cut wood and plastics, then timing belts will be okay. We will use timing belts for this machine, but a slightly wider belt and with a steel core. The belt is called HTD3M. You can use a stronger belt called 5M, but make sure it is only 15 mm wide. The timing belt pulley has 15 teeth. I attach it to the motor shaft so that it protrudes about 2 to 3 mm from the side plate.
[Music] [Music] I will make my own timing belt idlers from ball bearings and washers.
[Music] That for [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] The cable chain can be attached in a few different ways: either directly to the machine or to the table underneath. I choose the table underneath.
[Music] [Music] Is [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] I'm going to test the machine before I build an electronic box for it. To do that, I am mounting plugs that fit one of my other boxes. The electronics that we build later will have the same performance. This is just a test.
[Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] Is [Music] For [Music] [Music] Now I've reached the point where I can cut with the machine. What needs to be done is to build a simple electrical box for it. The price is already included above, but we'll build the box a little further on in the video.
[Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] W [Music] [Music] For [Music] The price for the machine is not quite right. I have only taken prices from Amazon. If you look for parts on AliExpress, it will probably be 50% cheaper. Now that I know the mechanics work, I'll show you how to control the machine with cheap electronics. It's extremely simple and only takes a few minutes to assemble. I'll only connect the four motors to the board and exclude position switches and other things. You don't need these features right now, but you can always add them later. I'm putting everything together quickly just to show you how, but I recommend you build a box to protect the electronics from dust.
[Music] [Music] For for [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] For [Music] [Music] Finally, how can you make this machine better? There are a few things you can do. You can choose better electronics if you can afford it. With this electronics, you have more opportunities and better software, but everything around this is expensive. Expect at least $500 for parts and software. You can always upgrade later to this variant if you want. You can also connect position switches, change cutting head, and more. But as the machine is now and with the budget electronics, most would be satisfied. If you want to build a machine, then go to the description below for more information.